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Dakota Performance
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Troy
Dodge Dakota
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6/03/2002
20:52:22

Subject: got non-EGR M1..any tips
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I got my new non-EGR M1 today. I plan on installing it by this weekend. Does anyone have any tips to make the installation easier? Does the distributor need removed? Thanks.

2000 QC Sport Plus 4x4 5.9L 3.92LS, every factory option
Magnaflow 3" single in/ 2-1/2" dual out
Equal-length headers with 2-1/2" y-pipe
Autolite 3923's, indexed
Kenne Bell (Taylor) wires
180 stat
Redline Water Wetter
S-bolt
Homemade 4" cold-air induction
Baffled removed from air hat
K&N air filter
Mobil 1 and Purolator
Perma-Cool auxiliary oil cooler
Map sensor mod
TPS set at .774
clutch fan removed (electric fan on thermal switch)
timing advanced app. 2-3 degrees with sensor in bellhousing
Mopar Performance PCM

Very near future mods:
Upgraded throttle body
M1 2-barrel intake
1.7 ratio roller rocker arms
02 SIMM and remove cat (possibly)
IAT adjuster
underdrive crank pulley
MSD Blaster coil
Ford Racing fuel injectors (probably 19#)



CW
GenIII
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6/03/2002
21:14:47

RE: got non-EGR M1..any tips
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The distributor doesn't have to be removed. Just make sure the intake gaskets are on the right way They say Intake side on them.

2001 4.7HO RC 5sp 3.92 LSD

Click on thumbnail for mods.

R/Truck
Dodge Dakota
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6/04/2002
12:47:12

RE: got non-EGR M1..any tips
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Get a new by-pass hose and a longer hose for the brake booster. Sort and label the bolts as you take them off, there are various sizes and lengths on the Alt/AC support bracket.

Seal up the holes on the bottom front and rear of the M1 with some RTV.

Take your time.



HSKR
Dodge Dakota
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6/04/2002
13:13:28

RE: got non-EGR M1..any tips
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Use tyhe Felpro gaskets or any other gasket set with the cork end seals and you don't have to worry about the "holes" everyone talkes about filling. Also, make sure the block and manifold mating surfaces are real clean of any grease or oil, and use plenty of silicone sealant in the corners where the gaskets mate. Get a new t-stat and gasket while you are at it. Buy new intake manifold bolts, and cut the heads off the old ones and put them in a couple holes to help guide the new manifold in place. The Distributor does not have to be removed, and the Alt and AC units can stay attatched to the bracket. Just remove the bracket and lay everything off to the side. Leave the injectors on the fuel rails and lay the rails/injectors off to the side as well. When you go to install the fuel rails, make sure the spacers allow the injectors to seat into the injector bosses on new manifold fully. Sometimes the fuel rail spacers need to be ground down a little to allow proper mating of the injectors.




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