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08:44:52 - 12/21/2024
Dakota Performance
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Geoff
GenIII
5/09/2002
12:15:21
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 Subject: HELP HELP HELP
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Message:
I broke one of the bolts off while installing my headers WHAT DO I DO, WHAT DO I NEED, HELP HELP
Geoff
2000 3.9L RC Sport. Flame Red. 5-speed, 3.55, Airaid, Vortex Muffler, F&B 48mm TB, 180 T-Stat, Autolite 3923s, IAT Adjuster, Clear Corners, SS Grill Insert, JBA Plug Wires, Underdrive Crank Pulley. Hurst Shifter, Removed Clutch Fan, Sony CDX-MP450X MP3, Infinity Reference Speakers
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Rob
GenIII
5/09/2002
12:22:01
|  RE: HELP HELP HELP
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Message:
Which one how accessable is it.If you can get a drill in there use left drill bit and it should back it out.I would not use an easy out it would just break. I really cant help that much with out looking at it.
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bernd
*GenIII*
5/09/2002
12:33:46
| RE: HELP HELP HELP
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Message:
Geoff,
If you have some of the bolt hanging out, grab a can of compressed air (Radio Shack) and tip it upside down. Spray the bolt (it'll freeze it) which should shrink it enough to (gently) remove it. If you don't have any of the bolt sticking out...you'll need to use an "Easy-Out" (EZ-OUT).
1997 Dodge Dakota SLT - V6
Supercharged/Intercooled @ 10# w/Nitrous
14.55 @ 96.01mph
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Geoff
GenIII
5/09/2002
12:46:22
| RE: HELP HELP HELP
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Message:
I dont think much of it is sticking out
I did this as i was tightning them for the last time so everything is installed, It luckily is an accessible one its the second one from the rear on the passenger side. Can i use the easyout or left drill bit without removing the header? (please) everyhting else went perfectly dammit
Why did this happen i was not tightning it that much do i need to get some better bolts while I'm out?
Geoff
2000 3.9L RC Sport. Flame Red. 5-speed, 3.55, Airaid, Vortex Muffler, F&B 48mm TB, 180 T-Stat, Autolite 3923s, IAT Adjuster, Clear Corners, SS Grill Insert, JBA Plug Wires, Underdrive Crank Pulley. Hurst Shifter, Removed Clutch Fan, Sony CDX-MP450X MP3, Infinity Reference Speakers
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BlackDak02
*GenIII*
5/09/2002
15:18:16
| RE: HELP HELP HELP
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Message:
Geoff,
A little late but if you still need help...
You will need to center punch the remnant of the bolt so the drill bit will not 'walk'. You need to align the punch dead center in what's left of the bolt otherwise you run the risk of drilling into your head. To do this correctly you need to have a good view of the bolt. Again without looking at your situation I don't know if you have to remove the header or not, it's up to you. A reverse taper or 'left hand' drill bit is a drill bit that drills when the drill is reversed so when you drill into the bolt it heats up and usually breaks free unscrewing while you are drilling into it.
The threads probably weren't clean so the bolt got bound up and snapped. You should tap out exhaust manifold holes when installing headers to clean them up. The headers came with new bolts hopefully, never use old exhaust hardware. If by any chance you decide to remove the header and you see that there is part of the bolt sticking out use a pair of vice-grips to try to back it out. Also tap out the rest of the holes before reinstalling, better to be safe than sorry.
Sorry can't help much without getting an eyeball on the situation but here's a link to stud extraction:Stud Extraction
2002 Black CC SLT 4x4
4.7L 45RFE 3.55 LSRD
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Geoff
GenIII
5/09/2002
15:30:18
| RE: HELP HELP HELP
IP: Logged
Message:
Thanks i am waiting for it to cool right now. Good news is i had to drive to get stuff went 20 miles and no leaks even with only three bolts on one side. I removed the passenger side weel well liner and have a direct shot at the broke bolt. I got a center punch as well as two types or easy outs could not find regular bits thatt were reversed. My plan is to drill a small hole in the bolt then try the easyouts meant to be used with the drill i also got some that are menat to be used by hand. I still can't believe the bolt snapped it did not seen that tight makes me thing possible it had bottomed out and i just twisted off the head. I also bought some grade 8 bolts should i use these rather then the JBA ones?
Thanks
Geoff
2000 3.9L RC Sport. Flame Red. 5-speed, 3.55, Airaid, Vortex Muffler, F&B 48mm TB, 180 T-Stat, Autolite 3923s, IAT Adjuster, Clear Corners, SS Grill Insert, JBA Plug Wires, Underdrive Crank Pulley. Hurst Shifter, Removed Clutch Fan, Sony CDX-MP450X MP3, Infinity Reference Speakers
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BlackDak02
*GenIII*
5/09/2002
16:32:55
| RE: HELP HELP HELP
IP: Logged
Message:
Well you'll have to use at least one Gr8 bolt if you don't have nothing else. Personally I wouldn't use Gr8 hardware on exhaust because if you snap these bolts they are hardened so you will have one hell of a time removing them.
Do you have a tap to clean up the threads when you get the broken piece out?
You can gauge how deep the hole is by taking a toothpick and inserting it into the hole and comparing it with the bolt that will be used.
You might be right on the bottoming out. If this is the case you might have to use a washer or two to shim out the bolt to prevent it from bottoming out or get a shorter bolt.
Be real carefull with the EZ-outs because you don't want to snap one off in the hole because then you'll be in a real world of $hit, LOL.
Good Luck!
2002 Black CC SLT 4x4
4.7L 45RFE 3.55 LSRD
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Rob
GenIII
5/09/2002
16:42:29
| RE: HELP HELP HELP
IP: Logged
Message:
Black Dak thanks for elaborating on my post, You described it much better than I did.
If that easy out breaks your screwed!
They are much harder metal to drill out! Thats why I use the left handed drill bits!
If you do screw up the hole some how getting the bolt out you can always heicoil it but that is only if the hole got drilled bigger than origanally.They are pretty strong though I had to do it on my case of my Harley and it still holding on.
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Geoff
GenIII
5/09/2002
17:12:15
| RE: HELP HELP HELP
IP: Logged
Message:
Thanks everyone
Odly when i went centerpunch the broken piece it jiggled!!! id the header was not on there i could have backed it out by hand!!! Well i still had to drill it and use an easyout because i could not reach it but once i saw it was that loose my spirits were raised. I had the GR8 bolts but decided to try another one of the JBA bolts (their hardware kit is universal so i had 4 bolts left) no problems this time must have been a bad bolt or just my bad luck. Around 40 miles now still no leaks or loose bolts.
Thanks everyone for the great advise !!!
Geoff
2000 3.9L RC Sport. Flame Red. 5-speed, 3.55, Airaid, Vortex Muffler, F&B 48mm TB, 180 T-Stat, Autolite 3923s, IAT Adjuster, Clear Corners, SS Grill Insert, JBA Plug Wires, Underdrive Crank Pulley. Hurst Shifter, Removed Clutch Fan, Sony CDX-MP450X MP3, Infinity Reference Speakers
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BlackDak02
*GenIII*
5/09/2002
18:48:06
|  RE: HELP HELP HELP
IP: Logged
Message:
Problem solved!
Rob- no prob, left handed drill bits do rule in this situation, LOL.
Geoff- If it ever happens again- If you punch a bolt and it's loose you don't have to drill it. Use the centerpunch to 'walk' the piece out. Punch the piece close to the edge and tap at an angle that will unscrew the broken piece. I like to leave drilling as a 'last resort' sort of deal because $hit happens, LOL.
2002 Black CC SLT 4x4
4.7L 45RFE 3.55 LSRD
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TEAMFAST
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
5/09/2002
19:12:19
| RE: HELP HELP HELP
IP: Logged
Message:
Its a helpless feeling, but if you step back and
wisely act on the situation, you will be fine.
Great tips everyone..
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