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moparR/T
Dodge Dakota
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2/27/2006
11:19:29
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 Subject: drag racing questions
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for all you r/t guys out there, i want to know some easy tips to lower times. what do you guys set ur tire pressure at? do you take the tail gate off or leave it on? what about spare tires?any good tips would be good. ive got a 03 R/T with just k&n and trying to get my 14.8 down
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Mopar318
GenII
2/27/2006
16:35:41
| RE: drag racing questions
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I dont have a R/T but these tips will apply to anyone.
1. leave the tailgate on for better traction. If traction isn't a problem then leave it off for less weight...
2. If you still can get traction then remove the spare tire.
3. Air the front to 35-40. Air the back to around 25. If your on street tires do a light burn out before you stage. Only enough to get a light mist of smoke then let out. DO NOT smoke the tires.
4. After your staged brake stall up to about 1500 or so RPM. Go out on the road first and see what your stall is.....
5. When the yellow turns let off the brake and feather the throttle.
6. After you feel that your tire are gripped all they can be slam the throttle down hard till the line.
Sometimes if you shift your automatic manually you can get some better times. For instance my truck will shift everytime at 4800 RPM. But if I shift it manually ill get 5200 RPM. I never tried shifting manually at the track because it is pretty nerve racking there and I didnt want to forget to shift it up..
My rice eater
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toolfan
GenIII
3/02/2006
19:13:19
| RE: drag racing questions
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if you put the tale gate down that helps alot with traction. my times where faster when i shifted the truck at 4800, than at 5100rpm.
not bad times for that R/T is it a rc or cc?
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bludak
Dodge Dakota
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3/02/2006
19:43:31
| RE: drag racing questions
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Never do a burnout with a street tire and stay out of the water in the burn out box. Go around it. Don't brake-stall it either, that just sets it up to burn the tires off when the time comes to go. Just as the the last amber light comes on, then pedal it out from idle and shift it manually over 5000 rpm. If you nail it off the line, you will spin like crazy. Better yet, invest in some slicks then do it the right way.
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GraphiteDak
GenIII
3/02/2006
22:48:23
| RE: drag racing questions
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Pretty much agree with the above.
Street tires don't get a damn thing burning in the water pit. You will only loose extra rubber doing that.
The ONLY time I burn them is IF I couldn't go all the way around the water because I get the outside lane that soemtimes don't have enough room to drive around it.
With my open diff I had to drop air all the way down to 15 or 20 to not spin like I was on ice.
With the LSD I leave around 35 or so and punch it. Spins but goes at the same time and hooks soon.
And like said above. Learn your delay and start ANTICIPATING the green light. Just as the bottom yellow is solid I punch it and NEVER red light.
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Mopar318
GenII
3/04/2006
14:54:37
| RE: drag racing questions
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Message:
Like I said dont smoke the tires but enough to get the dust and little rocks off them. I quick throttle punch I my truck will get the tires to mist....
Actually brake stalling will help. It preloads the suspension so when you do punch you wont get that sudden jolt of power to the tires. I cant really explain it but if you go here It will tell all about it...
http://www.modernracer.com/tips/dragracinglaunchtechniques.html
This is a very good site it helped me alot when I first went to the track. And I will tell you that these tips did work for me.
My rice eater
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HASWKSTER
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/04/2006
15:48:43
|  RE: drag racing questions
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tires are going to be what keeps you out of the 14's. if you have the goodyear eagle rsa's they work well at the track but don't do any thing on the street. i have a 2000 r/t cc it had the rsa's on it as oem they didn't work well at the track till they had very little rubber left. putting your foot on the brake and the gas will help the off the line times by going this the motor will be at a higher rpm to start witch puts it closer to it power band. manually is not going to help because taking the motor to 5200 rpm is out of the motors power band the auto tranny is set to shift at the right time to keep you in the power band if the truck is mostly stock. another thing that will help is getting a bed cover i have a soft cover less weight than hard and helps with gas milage and it make the truck more areodinamic it helped my times a little. as for the burn out it is one of those things the differs from tire to tire i do a burn out every time and when i say burn out don't mean smoke they till you can't see i mean get the tires in the water box and start spinning them and let off the brake a little so the truck rolls foward and when let off the brake so the truck starts to take off and when the tire grab hit the brake. this what i do with my rsa's. all that is done to my r/t is bed cover, air intake, royal purple oil and 180 t stat and i have hit low 14.8's almost 14.7 since then i have added cam, intake manifold, headers, 1.7 roller rockers, 50mm throttle body, under drive pulley, and gs motor sports exhaust hoping for mid 13's
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toolfan
GenIII
3/04/2006
18:25:36
| RE: drag racing questions
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i agree with haswkster that some tires get sticker with a burnout than others, i guess the different rubber compounds. the stall on your r/t is around 1500rpm if you havent changed you tq convert. if you do a stall launch do it at 900rpm and if it grabs go to 1100rpm and s0 on & soforth. if you drop your tires down to 25-30psi that will help alot off the line.
lets us know the times after you go and what worked and what didnt.
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enigma
Dodge Dakota
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3/05/2006
14:15:42
| RE: drag racing questions
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Heres a good hooking setup for less than 30 bucks.
Get a set of 2* pinion spacers from you local off road shop/speed shop. Install them under your axle, between the leaf spring and axle with the pointed side facing forward.
Get 2 sets of leaf spring clamps from autozone or pep boys and cut your stock spring clamp off. Put one of the clamps on the front section of the spring(in front of the axle), on the lower-most spring, at its very front. Save the other one for the drive home, which you used to replace the stock spring clamp.
Also, undo the bolts that hold your swaybar to the frame, and let it hang with a peice of rope, or something similar.
What this does is allow your truck to get better weight transfer at the track, removing the front sway bar allows your truck to "lift" the front end up, and clamping the front part of the spring makes it act like a ladder bar, while the unclamped rear section acts like a monoleaf.(which is the hot ticket for leaf spring drag racing)
The goodyear RSA's are garbage, most of the badyear tires that are put on the base models are garbage in fact.
I have a set of pirelli's on mine, and they hook up pretty good for a street tire, as well as take the corners pretty well.
Look into buying a set of 15" rims from a junkyard, and throwing a set of slicks on them, this will improve your traction TREMENDOUSLY, and not cost you an arm and a leg.
If you do all of the above, you are looking at spending about 400 bucks, and can lower your 60' times into the 1.6-1.7's with no problem.
For another mod, get a set of ranchero 9 way adjustable shocks, which are 80 bucks a peice, and allow you the tunability of some of the "race" shocks, only with more durability.
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moparR/T
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/05/2006
20:01:25
| RE: drag racing questions
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yeah, im runnin the factory RSA's and when these are done switching to nittos. I have a regular cab and ran the 14.8 with still tire spin. im not to worried about my reaction time, my best (which was only my 3rd run in my whole life) was .02
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