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JJ Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/18/2002 08:36:38
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Subject: Rear tow hook help IP: Logged
Message: First off, I have searched...
I'm looking for a spot for my rear tow hooks. The end of my frame has a perfect spot but there is a huge rivet in the way. This rivet holds the steel frame of my spare tire rack.
Can I grind this rivet out and replace it with the same bolt for my tow hook?
I was told that drilling the frame could hurt its strength.
What has everyone else done here?
I don't have a receiver to use so that's why I am going with hooks
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Knobbyman *GenIII*
4/18/2002 09:26:12
| RE: Rear tow hook help IP: Logged
Message: I would honistly get a reciever hitch.. It's more useful and it's a centeral stronger towing spot.
If you have those tow straps w/o the metal hooks on the ends where all it has is the loops. You can get a reciever hitch.. put the loop into the reciever and slide the pin threw the loop... get what I'm saying?
Anyway I think your idea would work but personally I'd go w/ the reciever hitch. But.. your truck not mine.
'01 Graphite QC 4x4 4.7 3.55 LSD http://www.knobbyman.com ----Speed only breaks stuff faster----
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JJ Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/18/2002 11:44:18
| RE: Rear tow hook help IP: Logged
Message: I see what you mean. What class of receiver would you recommend? Of course the bigger the better, but would a class II do for the occasional pulling Fords & Chevs out of the rhubarb?
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J. C. Brandon Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/18/2002 12:14:25
| RE: Rear tow hook help IP: Logged
Message: Find the maximum tow capacity for your truck, then get a receiver hitch that will tow that load. Otherwise, you'll be compromising the capabilities. Receiver hitches are pretty inexpensive components; little need to shortchange yourself. You'll probably end up with a Class IV hitch.
-J.
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Knobbyman *GenIII*
4/18/2002 13:46:21
| RE: Rear tow hook help IP: Logged
Message: I'll second that.
'01 Graphite QC 4x4 4.7 3.55 LSD http://www.knobbyman.com ----Speed only breaks stuff faster----
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Hawkeye *GenIII*
4/18/2002 15:46:23
| RE: Rear tow hook help IP: Logged
Message: Get at least a class III. IV would be better. They are not that much $$
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Peter Finch Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/21/2002 09:08:01
| RE: Rear tow hook help IP: Logged
Message: I wrestled with this problem on my 2000 4x4 QC. I already had a trailer hitch so I bought a second short ball mount without a ball. When I am offroading I use it with a heavy duty clevis D-pin ring I got at Northern tool. It just fits in the hole where the ball would mount and provieds plenty of options for attaching tow straps, chains, etc. Of course, I keep the ballmount and clevis in the bed box until needed so they don't hurt departure angle and so nobody bangs into them when walking behind the Dak. I have used this setup with my tow straps many times in the Outer Banks to pull people out and, fortunately, have not needed it to get myself pulled out yet!
In my old Dak I just did what one of the other posters mentioned and slipped the receiver hitch pin through the loop end of a tow strap. This works great for light to medium tow straps but the wider heavy-duty ones were hard to manage inside the receiver.
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Knobbyman *GenIII*
4/21/2002 09:45:49
| RE: Rear tow hook help IP: Logged
Message: Didn't even think about the really thick tow straps. The 3" one I have fits. 30,000 lbs. should be plenty.
Better safe then sorry though. Good idea.
'01 Graphite QC 4x4 4.7 3.55 LSD http://www.knobbyman.com ----Speed only breaks stuff faster----
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