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Dr Q
DakotaEnthusiast
1/14/2002
00:05:53
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 Subject: 2/3 drop questions
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Message:
OK Slammers,
I'm gonna be dropping the Dak and I've been doing some reading and it seems that the springs in the front and shackles/hangers in the back is the best way to go.
I know that I'll be needing the springs/shackles/hangers and shocks but what all is it gonna involve. Would this be the best time to add a sway bar in the rear. I'd like to do it myself.
Lay some knowledge on me.
Q
Dr.Q
'01 Patriot Blue SLT RC 4.7 5sp 3.92 pegleg
0-60 @ 6.20sec.
1/4mi @ 14.75@97.1
Home Brew Airbox
K&N Drop In
Lakewood Traction Bars
Dremel TB Port and Polish
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Dr Q
DakotaEnthusiast
1/15/2002
00:21:50
|  RE: 2/3 drop questions
IP: Logged
Message:
Anyone?
Dr.Q
'01 Patriot Blue SLT RC 4.7 5sp 3.92 pegleg
0-60 @ 6.20sec.
1/4mi @ 14.75@97.1
Home Brew Airbox
K&N Drop In
Lakewood Traction Bars
Dremel TB Port and Polish
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Marks DQC
GenIII
1/15/2002
07:05:41
| RE: 2/3 drop questions
IP: Logged
Message:
I did my drop a little differently. I did springs/shocks in the front and dearched springs/shocks in the rear. The Hotchkis kit.
For a 2/3 drop shocks are not a must, but getting better shocks will improve your ride.
Replacing the front springs is tough work, but not too difficult. If you don't have experience, don't do it yourself. You will need an internal type spring compressor and a ball joint seperator (pickle fork) I borrowed both from Autozone rather than buying.
Jack up the truck, remove the shock, compress the spring. Secure it so it won't jump out. Remove the caliper and hang it securely so the brake line won't stretch. Seperate the upper ball joint. Compress the replacement spring, be sure to use the plastic boots on the ends. Isecured these with electrical tape. Put the spring in, put the ball joint back together, put the caliper back on, and put in the shock. This is abbreviated, there are other things to loosen and such. But it's pretty intuitive for someone who has experience.
As for the rear, the springs come out easily. I don't know about changing the shackles, but from reading posts is sounds like it's a hassle. By the way, on the rear do one side at a time, help keeps you aligned.
After it's all done, be sure to have a good alignment done on the truck.
As for sway bar, yep this is the time.
2001 Dakota Quad Cab SLT , 4.7L, Auto, 3.55 LSD, Garnet Red over Slate, Zaino, Tint, Vent Guard, Gaylords Lid, Hotchkis Springs, Bilstein Shocks, Wet Okole Covers
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Dr Q
DakotaEnthusiast
1/16/2002
00:35:33
| RE: 2/3 drop questions
IP: Logged
Message:
Thanks!
Dr.Q
'01 Patriot Blue SLT RC 4.7 5sp 3.92 pegleg
0-60 @ 6.20sec.
1/4mi @ 14.75@97.1
Home Brew Airbox
K&N Drop In
Lakewood Traction Bars
Dremel TB Port and Polish
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Paul
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
1/16/2002
08:57:17
| RE: 2/3 drop questions
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Message:
Just lowered my '02 Quad cab and very pleased with the results. I went 2/4 using Western Suspension kit from www.sporttruckdirect.com. This includes two rear spring mounts (for 2") and two front spring hangers (for an additional 2", 2.5" or 3" drop) Getting the factory rivits out is the only time consuming effort. Kit comes with new bolts and bracket for the emergency brake cable. The front uses 2" lowered control arms (with all the talk about Dakota ball joints I went with a set of Moog with grease fittings). Western suggest that the alignment slots for the upper control arms be longated 1/4" to the outside to insure full factory alignment. Use a scribe to mark the location of the control arm before you remove it for this modification, this will give you a good starting point for the new alignment when your done. I also opted for the slammer shocks on all four corners. The thing I like the most is you don't lose the good ride because you retain the factory springs.
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Dakotacali
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
1/30/2002
19:55:50
| RE: 2/3 drop questions
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Message:
I'm doing a 2/3 this weeknd I have air tools.I lifted trucks before without spring compressors when they siad I needed them!I will have 2" control arms in front will I have to use a spring compressor????????????????????
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Paul
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
1/31/2002
08:09:10
| RE: 2/3 drop questions
IP: Logged
Message:
I tried without using the compressor and the truck started to come up off the jack stands. Compressor makes life a little easier! A couple of notes front and rear. The longated slots for my truck weren't necessary, the alignment came back to factory with no problems. The Western lower control arm has the spring "pig-tail" 180 degrees from factory. Not a problem since the top of the spring is flat, just rotate it 180 and make sure both springs are seated in the same way. At the rear the front spring hanger on the drivers side is almost impossible to tighten or even get the nuts started on the bolts that replace the rivits you removed without loosening the gas tank straps. Just loosen the two starps and take a couple of pieces of scrap 1x2 between the frame and tank. This will give you a little finger room to start the nuts and get a wrench on it. Don't forget to tighten the tank back up. Unless your going to the lowest setting (there are 3 positions, 2"-2.5" and 3")on the spring hanger, the bracket provided for the emergency brake cable is unnecessary. You don't have touch or disconnect the cable at all. It will run between the top of the spring eye and inside the bracket. This is a lot clearer when you have the parts laid out. These front spring hangers require the cab to be slightly modified. No big deal. About 2" of sheet metal needs to be removed for clearence. Your not cutting into the cab itself just a piece of sheet metal that hangs down. I believe this is only on the Quad cabs. The slammer shocks give a little stiffer ride and if your only going 2-3 or 2-4 it may not be worth the extra money.... drivers choice... One more thing on the front spring hangers... If you start the bolt from the outside there is enough room for the nut, however, check the clearence or length of the bolt. There is a factory hole in the frame for the factory bolt... but... doesn't quite line-up with the new hanger. If you trail fit the hanger you can sight through the bolt holes and mark the frame or cut the bolt down.
I think I've covered the little things you usually find after you get started and somehow didn't make it into the instructions. Good luck and let me know how it comes out and which kit you used.
Paul
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