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AustinL911
Dodge Dakota
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10/21/2002
16:54:18
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 Subject: Hey KRC Tech!!
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Can you answer my question about how much HP and TRQ your Lightning killer package along with your Vortech V-1 S-Trim would produce? It would also have a Vortech Boost Bypass valve...but I don't think that matters. Figured I'd go right to the source since the boards have seemed to be really slow and nobody is answering my other post. Thanks.
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alex
Dodge Dakota
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10/21/2002
17:10:18
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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I answered. Maybe you should go to his site and e-mail him directly.....
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AustinL911
Dodge Dakota
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10/21/2002
17:17:21
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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hey thanks. I may do that.
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KRC Tech
Dodge Dakota
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10/21/2002
20:39:17
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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On a 318, it produced 435 rear wheel hp at 5400 rpm before the head gaskets blew, that's when I spent the money for the BHJ O-ring tool. That motor was going for 6400 rpm. The motor then became a 360 with the same parts, and being a 5-speed, I de-tuned it from 11 lbs to 6 lbs until I finish the Tremec swap issues. But even at 5-6 lbs of non-intercooled boost the truck ran a pretty funny 14.50 at 109. At 11 lbs it blew the centerforce clutch disk out of the bellhousing. I have another 360 that uses the 210B cam in place of the 220, with all the same parts in the LK package, and the S-trim, and it makes 439 at the back tires. But the blower at this level is becoming small and needs to be changed out to the T-trim. More than 460-480 rear wheel with the s-trim is pushing it. But the average LK package with the S-trim makes around 450 rear wheel. It'll put a club cab through the traps at 110-112 mph. Hope this helps.
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AustinL911
Dodge Dakota
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10/21/2002
22:31:22
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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What times could I expect to see with the T-Trim?
Any other parts I need to upgrade for this setup?
What Ignition do you recommend for this setup?
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KRC Tech
Dodge Dakota
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10/22/2002
08:07:11
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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The T-trim will get you in the 470-550 rear wheel range in a 360/408 combo. The problem here is that the LK package is a bolt on kit for stock bottom ends, so don't supercharge it on the cast pistons and bottom end. The maxed out S-trim and T-trim needs forged pistons. At 440 rear wheel the 24 lbs FMS injectors need to be changed out to 26/30 lbs too. The Ignition I use is the Crane HI6 TR and the BTM from MSD. To benefit from the T-trim, you need forged pistons, billet rods, main studs and a HV oil pump assy. Take care!
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AustinL911
Dodge Dakota
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10/22/2002
18:33:49
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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what's a safe psi to run with the s-trim on the stock bottom end? will the s-trim work for this setup? I don't particularly want to tear into the bottom end if I don't have too. I'm just looking to make around 450 rwhp. Is this setup ok for and everyday vehichle? I also don't want to run the t-trim if I don't have too. Is that alright?
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AustinL911
Dodge Dakota
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10/22/2002
20:55:30
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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will the tranny hold together with just a shift kit?
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KRC Tech
Dodge Dakota
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10/22/2002
23:44:58
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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I would not exceed 8 psi on stock internals, I have seen 7 psi intercooled destroy pistons. The transgo and a decent converter will be fine for 430 or less rear wheel. Later!
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MikeD
*R/T*
10/23/2002
01:11:35
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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Hey Marty...I was told by alot of people (and you know what happens when I listen to them haha) that the MSD ignitions are garbage and don't help at all. Is there an ignition system thats superior to the MSD? If the MSD is in fact good, is there a box better than the 6A or 6AL for my setup? Also which coil is the best.
Oh BTW I was doing a little research on your site and I read on there about the fuel sync being set to +6 to prevent backfire through the intake manifold...which is what I'm experiencing (as I talked to you on the phone about Tues.)...well would this create less power going from +1 (which is what I'm at now) to +6?
~Mike~
Get In...Sit Down...Shutup...& Hangon
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R/Truck
Dodge Dakota
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10/23/2002
11:14:47
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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Mike
I have a Crane Fireball ignition/coil and they have worked great for me. More top end power is noticable, not a tremendous difference but enough to tell something is there.
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MikeD
*R/T*
10/23/2002
12:48:24
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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Yeah I've heard those are good I saw one at Jeg's w/ the combo for $200 is there a place that sells em cheaper? And does it come w/ a harness that just plugs into your exist wiring setup & is the coil a direct replacement or does it require a braket?
Thanks
~Mike~
Get In...Sit Down...Shutup...& Hangon
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Blown318
Dodge Dakota
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10/23/2002
21:53:19
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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Okm I have the T-trim from Marty. 11 psi. I have the MSD 6AL, Blaster 2 coil, MSD BTM Box, and MSD 8.5 mm Wires. It works great. No trouble with it what-so-ever. I'm in the process of putting on the R/T ported O-ringed heads and M1 on it. I had the blower on it for a year now. Pulled the heads off and everything looks like new. No Detonation at all, no burn marks/ pitt marks in the pistons. What great cast pistons we have, lol. It's a 318 also. With the bad problems I had with it running rich, I ran a 13.20 @ 107 with it.(with bfg drag radials) The 24lb fms were killing me off the line. When I launched it, the truck hestitated and bogged bad, even bucked. Since then I put the Split Second ARC2-NE on it and cured it. I'm going back to the track with it when its all put back together. Hoping for some 11's
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MikeD
*R/T*
10/24/2002
00:11:45
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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Whats the Split Second ARC2-NE? I'm not really having that much of a bogging problem...the cam doesnt' really open up till 3000rpm but it could be stroger down low for sure. I probably won't need a BTM box if I'm not running boost right?
~Mike~
Get In...Sit Down...Shutup...& Hangon
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Blown318
Dodge Dakota
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10/24/2002
00:58:08
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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I'm running a bigger cam than you. The bogging is coming from the 24 lb injectors. No you will not need the BTM. It's only for force induction where you need the timing pulled out. the ARC2-NE is a Split Second Fuel controller. It controls the fuel low rpms and idle, in mid rpms and light boost, high setting for big load conditions and accel for heavy full throttle action. Once you get them all set, you have the perfect fule curve for the intire operating range and can be changed on the fly for different condition. Looks like the Roe Racing controller but has four knobs insread of two.
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MikeD
*R/T*
10/24/2002
01:02:14
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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Well I'm not a genius when it comes to adjusting fuel curves and fuel maps and all that...is it hard to understand and use?
BTW...whats the lift and duration on your cam? I dont' see why U had the bog from the injectors...mine seems to love them.
~Mike~
Get In...Sit Down...Shutup...& Hangon
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Jacque
Dodge Dakota
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10/24/2002
12:00:49
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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My experience with adjusting the injector sync is that the engine likes the higher settings which is 10-12. The engine will rev quicker at these settings esp. at 12. Some the modded motors with big cams supposedly need to be set at 10 max according to the KRC site. I wouldn't know. I had a 94 regular cab auto 318 Dakota. I had the RT cam, MP computer, and dual exhaust. It liked the sync set at 12.
I called Split Second about a week ago. The guy told me he would go with PSC-003. It takes a laptop to make it work. He said that with it you could really fine tune your fuel curve. The way he explained it it is not that hard to use. I think that it is explained on their site as to how to use it. It is less expensive than the ARC2-NE. On their site, it would appear that the ARC2-NE would be the one to go with since it allows for mods such as headers, cams, throttle bodies, etc. But, I was told that the ARC1 would work unless you are going to use headers.
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MikeD
*R/T*
10/24/2002
12:12:55
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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Um I think some of our trucks are tuned to that high of a setting like +12 and up from the factory thats why you adjust it to a lower setting as close to zero as possible if U have pretty much stock settings or mild modifications. I really noticed my truck opened up set at +1 from +14 where it had originally been. But since w/ the bigger injectors +1 is too low now I think but I think +10 is too much...both Bernd and Marty at KRC said +6 to +4 so I'm gonna try that hopefully it works.
~Mike~
Get In...Sit Down...Shutup...& Hangon
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Jacque
Dodge Dakota
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10/24/2002
15:12:20
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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A friend of mine has a 2000 RT. K@N cone filter, M1 2 barrel intake, cat-back exhaust, RT cam, and aftermarket coil. He runs his truck at a setting of 12 with no problems. This works esp. well with a MP computer. Based on your mods, I would try it at +10 for a day or two. If you could borrow someones Snap-on scanner it would be great. It will need to have a cartridge for 97 and up vehicles. Earlier versions don't have the provision to adjust the sync signal. My truck when set at 10 would accelerate not much different than when it was at its stock setting whichis normally at -2 to -4. This truck I have now was set at -3 when I checked it. But at 12 with the MP computer, it would rev so hard many people that drove it or rode with me said that the engine would not stay together very long. I had a Chrysler Tech adjust the sync without my knowledge one time when I took it in for repairs to -6. That was on a DBR 111. I think the actual vlue was lower than if you used a Snap-On Scanner. Because on it you could adjust from +6 to 0 to -6. So I think it was at -12. Never tell the Chrysler Tech guy how fast your truck is. I don't know why he did it. I went from running 106 on the street to about 99. I think my truck was as fast as it was because of how hard it would rev not because of how much power it made so much. I do know that it is critical to find the setting your engine wants to run at with your level of mods. Like I said, 10 was like stock as far as I was concerned, 11 a little better, and 12 was like I had hit the sweetspot so to speak. Man, it loved it.
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Jacque
Dodge Dakota
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10/24/2002
16:12:59
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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On the 5.2 and the 5.9, the highest setting you can use is 12. If you go higher the truck will not run. If you set it at 13, for example, the truck will buck and surge just like it would if you hit the rev limiter. That is how I would describe it. And the higher the setting, the faster it should run. Your mods may call for something different. I have never had any experience with a truck that had as big a cam as yours. With the Hughes cam you have installed and the M1 2 barrel intake it may take something radically different. I do know that it is critical to have it set were it wants to be. You are right to assume that you will have to experiment to find out. If you can't borrow a Snap-On Scanner, you could initially set it at +2 and slowly change it manually. Say you start at +2 for instance. Unbolt the distributor and move it just enough to say you moved it. When you unbolt it loosen it just enough that to turn it. If you loosen it too much it becomes much easier to move too when you turn it. Tighten back down. Disconnect battery to reset the computer. When you restart the engine the computer will relearn from the new position unaware it has been moved. Changing the setting on my truck from -3 to +12 involved moving the distributer all of maybe an 1/16 to a 1/8( if it was more than that it was not much more) of an inch in my case. If I can do this I know you can do it. You just want to move it enough that with the naked eye you could tell that you barely moved it. You will want to drive it a few days at each setting to establish if it runs better. Or if you think your truck might like it start at a negative setting like -6 and work your way back up. That way you want have to worry about borrowing a scanner every time or paying someone to change it. I would be willing to bet that there is a setting that your truck wants to be at above all others and the performance at that setting is NOTICEABLY better than anywhere else.
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Jacque
Dodge Dakota
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10/25/2002
14:25:24
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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Talked to a Tech in my area yesterday. He said that on his personal vehicle which is a 96 Ram 360 auto he has his sync signal set at 6. Like I said I thought one of these either the DBR11 or DBR111 only goes up to 6. I could be wrong about that. I am going back to ask him about it. He said that he thought that it worked because the fuel got into the cylinder sooner and cooled it off more than it would coming into the cylinder later. When you change the sync signal, you changing how soon the injector fires after the intake valve opens on the intake stroke. The higher the value the faster the injector fires after the intake valve opens. He said that setting the sync at 6 will result in better performance and help eliminate pinging from the engine. He said that any truck set at 0 to -4 (like they are normally set from the factory) probably runs like a dog and has tendancy to ping.
After that Tech set my sync at -6 that time, I finally got another mechanic at the Jeep dealership find the problem. He used a DBR 11 or 111 that read from +6 to -6 and he changed it back. I will find out Monday if I know what I am talking about. I think that clear up some confusion about these settings on different DBR's.
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CW
GenIII
10/25/2002
20:35:53
|  RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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All the in sync signal is to tell you if the distributor is in sync to the crank. Has nothing to do with the actual timing.
4.7 HO, CW style
2001 4.7 5sp 3.92 LSD
Ported 68mm TB, IAT adjuster, 3" flowmaster cat back, TPS @ .76V, 4" Z-tube, Roadmaster active suspention, Removed Third cat, Electric fan Convertion, HO cams, Robert shaw 180 therm, HO intake manifold.
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MikeD
*R/T*
10/26/2002
13:55:15
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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Hmm..well when I watched the Dodge guy turn the distributor he showed me on the computer they hooked up to my truck and you could watch the fuel sync go up or down depending on what direction he turned it.
~Mike~
Get In...Sit Down...Shutup...& Hangon
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CW
GenIII
10/26/2002
17:29:04
| RE: Hey KRC Tech!!
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Yeah like I say the degrees the DRB III shows is how close the distributor is to being perfectly in sync to the crank. Unfortunatly the only way to advance it is either a computer or adjust the crank sensor a little.
4.7 HO, CW style
2001 4.7 5sp 3.92 LSD
Ported 68mm TB, IAT adjuster, 3" flowmaster cat back, TPS @ .76V, 4" Z-tube, Roadmaster active suspention, Removed Third cat, Electric fan Convertion, HO cams, Robert shaw 180 therm, HO intake manifold.
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