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Matt M
Dodge Dakota
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10/15/2002
18:43:31
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 Subject: Help me intall rotors&brakes pls.
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I just got my performance friction brake pads and powerslot rotors. I have never installed pads or traded out rotors. I have the repair manual,but any helpful tips would would be great. How much time would this take and how tricky is it? or should I just take it in to the shop. They said they would do it for $65.00 for the rotors,brakes a bit more.
Thanks
97 4X4 5.2
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Richard
Dodge Dakota
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10/15/2002
21:05:00
|  RE: Help me intall rotors&brakes pls.
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The front is real easy. All you need is a t45 bit to remove the calapers a c lamp to push the pistion back into the caliper and som wd40. The wd 40 is incase the rotor is hard to get off. Mine was on there really tight. So i sprayed it on the rotor at the bas were it meets the hub. Dont get any on the pades. then the rotor will come off. The caliper has to be off before the rotor comes off. Put the new rotor on put two of the lugs on and srew them down so it holds the rotor tight then put caliper on. I pump the brakes so the pads hold the rotor tight until the wheel get put back on nothing to it. Just make sure that you open the res for the brakes before you push the pistion back into the caliper.
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Neil
Dodge Dakota
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10/16/2002
06:50:11
|  RE: Help me intall rotors&brakes pls.
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Message:
Here is a write up done by another individual. I did brakes for the first time with this. Very easy.
In addition I will add: If the brakes have not been serviced before, there probably are a couple of star washers on the lugs holding the rotor on. Just pry and cut them off. They are there for factory assembly line only. Also be careful and go slow when reinstalling the caliper bolts. The sleeves are rubber and it is easy to misalign and cross thread. (I know. Oversize bolts are available))
I took the time to write this for a post below, so I've posted it here as well for anybody else that might be interested in doing their own brakes for the first time.
Disc brakes in most cases are the easiest of brakes to replace. Much easier than Drum brakes because you don't have the different springs and such. Its more likely for an inexperienced person to get into trouble doing drum brakes than Disc. That's not meant to scare anybody from attempting to do Drums. Drums are not too tough either, just more involved than disc.
I am more than happy to answer any questions. Feel free to email me during the week. I am not usually on during the weekends.
Front Brake Job for dummies 101
Equipment:
New pads
C-clamp (or equivalent)
Correct wrench for caliper removal (I don't know if it's an Allen, torx, or standard bolt, I haven't been under my truck yet)
Jack and jack stands (or equivalent)
Lug nut wrench
Caliper slide grease
Anti-squeal for the pads
Brake fluid if bleeding
Bleeder screw wrench
Procedure:
1) Loosen all Lug nuts from front wheels
2) Jack up front end so that both wheels are off the ground.
3) Remove both front tires
4) Turn ignition key one click to unlock steering wheel.
5) Loosen Master cylinder cap, but leave covered to allow pressure to escape when squeezing the Calipers. But keep foreign matter out.
6) If the new pads came with Anti-squeal stop apply to the metal backing of all four pads. Do not apply to the pads friction material that contacts the rotors!
7) Work on one side at a time. Pick a side and turn the wheel in the right direction to make easy access to the back of the caliper. Remove the caliper by its mounting slide bolts.
8) Be careful not to strain the brake hose once the caliper is off.
9) Remove both pads and use one pad as a backing to squeeze the piston all the way into the caliper using a C-clamp or large water pump pliers (slip joint pliers).
10) Inspect rotors. Look for mirror like finish, deep grooves, rust build up on the inner and outer pad surface edges of the rotor. (all of these problems can be fixed by bringing the rotors to a local garage and have them turned for around $10-$15 each.) Exceptional amounts of rust in the pad surface of the rotor or badly out of round (pulsation when braking) could require rotor replacement. Under normal circumstances and doing the brakes before they grind usually reduces the need to have the rotors cut. Keep in mind for the best results you should have them cut anyway. This will give a nice dull finish and take out the imperfections to help braking distance, reduce squeaks, and pad live.
11) Remove the slide bolts from the caliper and clean. It is best to use a lube especially for caliper bolts, in a pinch use a heavy grease, or anti-seize. White lithium is not a good choice.
12) Match up the new inner and outer pads with the old and reinstall on the caliper. Install the rotor and caliper. Again be careful not to stain the brake hose.
13) Turn the wheel the other way and repeat the steps 7-12.
14) Now that the brakes are back together re-cap the master cylinder and pump the brake pedal with slow full strokes until the pedal get hard.
15) Test drive; be very careful to be sure the brake pedal has been pumped up before running up the truck. Other wise it will take those 5 or so pumps before your brakes start to work. By that time you've crashed! Do not do any panic stops to test out the brakes for the first 100 miles. This will give the pads time to break in to the rotors. You don't want to crack your new pads.
Optional work:
It's not a bad idea to bleed the brakes. This requires two people in most instances. If you're going to bleed the whole system, start at the right rear-left rear-right front-finishing up at the left front. If you only want to bleed the fronts, than start at the right front. The idea is to start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder.
1) Person in vehicle pumps up the brakes until firm and holds down. He should tell the person at the axle when he is ready.
2) Person under the vehicle cracks open bleeder just enough to allow fluid the flow out. Try not to get squirted in the eye, Brake fluid burns eyeballs.
3) The guy in the car will feel the pedal drop to the floor.
4) Bleeder should be closed just before fluid stops flowing. That way no air will be into the system. Never pump the brake pedal with the bleeder open.
5) Once the bleeder is closed, tell the person in the car to pump them up again, he should let you know when the pedal is firm and he is holding down and ready to do it again.
6) Repeat 2-5 a few times remembering to check the master fluid level. Do not let it run dry or you'll be in for more work bleeding the entire system.
7) Once you start getting clean fluid out, your ready to go to the next wheel.
Steve L.
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Matt M
Dodge Dakota
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10/17/2002
08:19:24
| RE: Help me intall rotors&brakes pls.
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Thank you very much for the info, sounds pretty easy! hopefully it won't rain around here for a little while!
Thanks,
MAtt M
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ptyler70
Dodge Dakota
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6/14/2003
11:24:27
|  RE: Help me intall rotors&brakes pls.
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This website was very helpful. The breakdown of each step on changing brakes seems a bit elementary, but for someone who has never done it before it is extremely helpful. Just wanted to say "Thanks" to Steve L. for his "Front Brake Job for Dummies 101".
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Anthony
Dodge Dakota
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6/14/2003
15:17:49
| RE: Help me intall rotors&brakes pls.
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Message:
Here's acouple of sites with pics and info.
http://home.attbi.com/~quadcab/powerslot.htm
http://www.fast4x4.net/brake.htm
Anthony
www.geocities.com/dak2nv/
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