| From | Message |
CrzyBri82
GenIII
 
7/21/2002
18:36:48
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 Subject: Control Arms
IP: Logged
Message:
Ok, my balljoints are going out on my 2000 dak. I was told that i had to change the control arms with it. well its 1600 bucks to get them replaced. So i decided to jsut see if i can buy some after market tubular control arms. The only problem is i cant decide on what ones i should get. Really i dont want to lower it, but if i have to the most i wanna go is 2 inches. Has anyone done this?
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kevster
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/21/2002
21:00:15
|  RE: Control Arms
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Message:
Hey Dude!! Stop now and read this, go to your auto parts store and get the Moog ball joints, they now make them for our Daks, remove the control arms yourself,and take them into a machine shop(auto) or Tire front end place and have them remove the stock ball joints from the control arms, and you install new ball joints yourself, the new ones come with bolts, nuts.. its the factory rivets which are a biatch to grind off yourself. then reinstall control arms,take Dak to tire shop and get the front end aligned. and you save $$$$. ball joints are about 120-140.00 all 4, labor to remove about 40-60.00, FEA is approx 50.00.
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R.L.Stuart
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/21/2002
21:47:12
|  RE: Control Arms
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Message:
Crazbir82
DC has a TSB out on the upper control arm bushings #0200600 just has the bushings replaced on the 2001 Dakota on the right side and they just replaced the bushings.
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Jordak
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/22/2002
12:11:26
| RE: Control Arms
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Message:
I just took my '01 QC in for suspected ball joint problems, and they said that it was the right side control arm bushing. Part comes in today, repair on wednesday.
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CrzyBri82
GenIII
7/22/2002
12:15:54
| RE: Control Arms
IP: Logged
Message:
kevster: What auto parts store did u go to? i went to the ones here and none of em carry the ball joints.
also, its nice to know that the 2001 have the problem with the bushings, but it would help me if u guys knew if that was also on the 2000.
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Pistolero
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/22/2002
13:42:24
| RE: Control Arms
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Message:
If you're replacing control arm bushings, think seriously about installing the Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings...they don't disintegrate, squeak and fall apart like the lousy rubber bushings do, and they make them for the Daks.
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BlueBayou
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/22/2002
17:25:41
|  RE: Control Arms
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Message:
You wouldn't happen to know what bushings should be used on the front of an 01 QC 4x4 would ya
Thanks
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Pistolero
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/22/2002
22:50:05
| RE: Control Arms
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Message:
It'd been a few weeks since I'd looked at their website, but they don't list control arm bushings for the 4x4's...I don't know how often they update their site; it might be worth it to call them and check for sure. Here's their website url...
http://www.energysuspension.com/dgt1.html
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Brian F
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
6/17/2007
17:30:19
| RE: Ball Joints
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Message:
Everyone says the ball joint rivets are a biatch to remove but nobody says how to remove them.
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Epyon
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
6/17/2007
17:56:00
| RE: Control Arms
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Message:
Hahaha those rivets are so insanly easy to get off. just jack the truck up, support it on a jack stand, remove tire rotor and caliper( hang the caliper with some wire) take a hand grinder and grind the tops of the rivets off then pop the old ball joint off the spindle and A arm install the new one. Theres so much room under there to use a grinder super easy would be a waste to take it to a shop for that. Its a really easy job u could have both top ball joints done your self in 3 to 4 hours at the most remember to get your front end aligment tho
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Baby Blue
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
10/27/2011
21:08:29
| RE: Control Arms
IP: Logged
Message:
I did both upper and lower ball joints on my wifes dakota and it was really easy.
try this.. really easy repair.
1. take a 4" grinder and put a one of those thin disposable cutting wheels in it.
2. cut a "x" pattern on the top of the rivet.
3. take a cold chisel or air chisel and pop off the 4 pieces of the "X" pattern. Your basically removing the top cap of the rivit.
4. drill out the remainder piece of the rivit. Start with about an 1/8" bit and step up two more times. I think the final drilling was 5/16"
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