Forums
Forum Tools
|
 |
00:27:42 - 12/20/2024
General Dakota Board
| From | Message |
JR
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/23/2011
02:18:39
|
 Subject: Setting up for long haul tow
IP: Logged
Message:
Had a few questions about setting my '05 Laramie QC 4x4 up for a long haul tow this summer. Going to be moving to Seattle in August, we're having the bulk of our stuff shipped professionaly but I'm planning on towing the gf's PT Cruiser. I've done plenty of towing before, even a few long hauls up and down the east coast but never across the country, in the summer, over the mountains... The '05 did not come with the tow package so I'm planning on putting in aux oil and tranny coolers, I've heard good things about the ones from B&N. I'll already have the oils changed to synthetic all around, what else should I be thinking about? I have the 3.5 rear end with stock 18" rims, I've been thinking about switching to the 3.9's and/or putting smaller tires on for the trip. If I went with the 3.9's since I won't be using 4WD during the trip is it OK to just change the rear and leave the front alone? I would probably switch the rear back to the 3.5's once I got out there anyway, mostly do highway driving. Obviously I'll have all my PM up to date, radiator flush, maybe a new thermostat, and I'll bring plenty of spare fluids, belts and hoses, maybe a few cans of fix a flat, anything else you guys can think of? Any tips/tricks for hauling over the mountains? Thanks in advance!
JR
|
other bill
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/23/2011
13:07:48
| RE: Setting up for long haul tow
IP: Logged
Message:
JR,
Just my .02 cents...
Switching gears to 3.92s to tow a PT Cruiser (which is not 'that' heavy) seems like quite an expense. You should be fine with the 3.55s...assuming you have the V-8. You will notice in your owners' manual under 'towing' it tells you to de-select the overdrive anyway (for safety). That should gain that difference you were looking for. Same with all the spare stuff. I would save the weight (and expense) since you will be on major travel routes. If you need to add a bunch of fluid (or multiple cans of fix a flat?), you likely have a problem that is going to require shop repairs...unless you brought your roll away tool box (see: save the weight).
The trans cooler would be the most beneficial modification to your rig if you plan to see some long grade mountain pulls. Depending on the grade, you may even drop it down into 2nd and slow to about 30-40mph. This will ease the pressure on your transmission and keep it cooler as well. If you are overly concerned you can even install a trans. Temp. gauge.
Ensuring your brakes are good is just as important, as you will need to be able to 'stop the train' coming off the mountain. You could invest in a high grade set of brake pads and depending on the current mileage, (if it's high) a new set of discs. That is cheap insurance.
Not sure why you want to change the thermostat. If you do, stay with the same rating. If you go too low, it will allow the coolant to circulate faster, not getting as much chance to cool off while passing through the radiator...preventing it from effectively cooling the engine. Again, dropping to a lower gear and easing up on the throttle does wonders for temperature and load (heh...he said load.)
Oil cooler? Personal preference. Just one more thing to figure out where/ how to mount.
How do you plan to tow: Flat, Dolly, or Trailer? Each has its pros & cons.
- Flat towing = less weight, but the vehicle being towed almost needs to be a manual trans. 'Some' auto transmissions need to have an 'oiler' installed. PT Cruisers may not, but I would research 'flat towing a PT Cruiser just to be sure. RV'ers tend to know which auto trans. vehicles can and cannot be flat towed.
- Car dollies are also light and alleviate the wheels turning on a front wheel drive vehicle being towed, but are a b!tch to back up with (2 pivot points).
- Car trailers tow well, can be bought/ rented with brakes and are nice when descending the mountain or making abrupt stops, but add to the overall weight being towed. U-Haul rents trailers that the brakes are hydraulic tongue actuated, so you wouldn't need to wire for an electric trailer brake actuator.
Note: Make sure tow dolly/ trailer tires are fully inflated! If not they get hot and can blow. (heh...he said blow.)
I have towed all three ways with my `95 Ext Cab V-8 4x4. I switched from the original 1,800lb springs to 2,500lb springs (No noticeable ride difference), and now own a 16' car trailer...with electric brakes. Without the trailer brakes it is usually a lot harder to stop than we think it's going to be...especially after you have put some miles under the tires. Good luck, and remember...this is just one man's opinion.
|
JR
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/23/2011
16:37:42
| RE: Setting up for long haul tow
IP: Logged
Message:
Thanks so much for the intelligent reply. Yes it is the V8, the
standard, non-HO 4.7L. According to the Dodge "historical
towing guide" (
http://www.dodge.com/towing/D/vehicle_to_weight.jsp ) my
exact setup can haul 5,800lbs, same setup with the 3.9's
7,000lbs. The PT's curb weight is 3,200, and the U-haul auto
transport trailer (fully off the ground with the surge brakes)
weighs almost 1,800lbs empty, so with trailer and car I'll be at
5,000lbs leaving 800lb wiggle room. Figured on bring the
fragile stuff with us in the truck, (TV, dishes, etc) plus the 2 of
us, food, clothes, roadtrip survival stuff and I think I'm going
to be right at the max load
Considering the truck has 80K miles on it I thought changing
the rear or even switching to smaller tires to get that gear
down effect would help buy me back some of that wiggle
room, if I can make it safely without though, I'd be happy to
save the money. I'm not looking to set any speed or mpg
records so if keeping the OD off and downshifting to 2nd to
putt along at 30 on those mountain passes will get me there
as is I'll be happy.
While we will be sticking to the interstates as much as
possible we're not taking the most direct route. We're taking
10-14 days to visit friends, family and do some sight seeing
along the way. As of now it's Springfield, MA - NYC -
Pittsburgh, PA - Chapel Hill, NC - Memphis, TN - Amarillo, TX
- Jerome, AZ - Las Vegas (via Grand Canyon/Hoover Dam) -
Reno, NV - Portland, OR - Seattle, WA. So if we end up
going that way we'll be crossing both the eastern and western
mountain ranges longitudinally so there's definitely gonna be
lots of up and down. We'll also be pretty far south, in August,
near the desert, which is why I'm so concerned with cooling. I
think I'll definitely go with the trans cooler and plumb in a
temp gauge while I'm there.
As far as the t'stat I just thought going with the 180 stat
instead of the 195 would keep it cooler but what you said
makes sense also. I've seen people talk about that "mod" on
other forums like it's a necessity.
Fix-a-flat would be for the trailer tires, pretty sure uhaul
doesn't supply a spare. As far as the other maintenance
items, guess that's the boy scout in me, but you're right,
without half my shop with me it's probably mostly useless, I'll
keep my cell charged and bring my AAA card instead and
save the weight.
Definitely going to go with a fresh set of pads and rotors, I'll
look into upgrades from stock for those. I have a standard
class IV hitch, I've heard good things about the weight
distributing hitches, can they be retro fitted to my setup and
the uhaul trailer?
Thanks again for the reply.
|
other bill
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/24/2011
09:39:42
| RE: Setting up for long haul tow
IP: Logged
Message:
Wow. You are taking the VERY scenic route!
The weight distribution systems start at the receiver and all attachments are made to the trailer itself. I bought an EZ2 system ( http://www.rvwholesalers.com/catalog/e2-weight-distribution-with-2-point-sway-control-1000-10-000-lb-round-bar-14-5607.html ) largely because it doesn't have chains to deal with or a separate anti-sway strut that need to be removed when backing up. Unfortunately have yet to actually use it (no long trips yet)! HA! The distribution systems need to be adjusted for the particular load you are hauling. You would need to take a closer look at the U-Haul trailer to ensure there are no obstructions where the attachments would go.
Don't get me wrong, as I am all about upgrading my rig, but wouldn't it be easier to just drive both vehicles if you are traveling together? Especially considering the somewhat frequent stops you plan to make?
|
JR
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/27/2011
15:31:37
| RE: Setting up for long haul tow
IP: Logged
Message:
Ha! Yes it would be both easier and cheaper, but it's not really an option. The woman's not big on driving cross-town let alone cross-country. Initally I thought we'd be saving money by not having to fuel up both cars along the way but when I added in the trailer rental and the lost fuel economy for towing with the Dak I'm guessing it'll end up costing me about $500 more to tow than to drive both of them. Another option we're considering is just selling the PT Cruiser here and buying her another beater once we get out there, that might just be the best option all together but I'm planning for all possibilities. Thanks again for your help!
|
02dak4.7
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/28/2011
16:42:46
| RE: Setting up for long haul tow
IP: Logged
Message:
Your truck will pull that set up just fine, just keep overdrive off. The trans cooler is all you really need. Your 3.55 rear end is fine and I would never put in just one set of gears...if you bumped that switch it would be lights out for your transfer case. The 180 T-stat would work great for added cooling, the heat transfer equation for fluids says that velocity and pressure both HELP heat transfer (yeah i am an engineer) and it doesnt increase velocity anyway. it just opens the thermostat earlier to let coolant flow and keep the engine temp at 180 instead of 195.
My only two cents is make sure your tires are load rated, use a trailer with surge brakes, and enjoy yourself.
|
| | P 1 |
|
Post a reply to this message:
Username Registration: Optional
All visitors are allowed to post messages
|
|
