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Adam
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
2/03/2008
15:22:17
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 Subject: Wont Start
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Message:
I took my truck to the stealership and paid 1600 for a supposed head problem. I drove it less than 500 miles and it just died and now it wont start. I checked all my wires, coil, distributer cap and everything. I checked my compression and I'm still not good on I think my timings jacked up but I dont understand how my distributer can just all of a sudden get out of alignment. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Kowalski
GenIII
2/03/2008
16:25:36
|  RE: Wont Start
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Message:
For any help, the guys are going to need more details - year, motor, details on the "supposed head problem", what you found when checking compression, anything else pertinent you can think of. It sounds like you think adjusting the distributor will affect timing, but for many Dakotas, it does not. It adjusts the fuel synch. And some Dakotas don't even have distributors - so how about a bit of clarification ?
Lead, follow, or get out of the way
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Adam
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
2/03/2008
17:11:22
| RE: Wont Start
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Message:
'00 3.9...Compression as follows 1> 145#
2> 125# 3> 140# 4> 125# 5> 95# 6> 140#.
2 and 5 where misfiring before, and after I got my truck back 5 started to misfire due to my spark plug electrode melting. I replaced it and had no problems til I went to drive my truck up to base. I removed the dist. Cap and put my harmonic balancer at TDC and the rotor was not pointing at the position for my #1 cyl. I'm not sure what the problem with my heads since I'm stationed up in Washington and my truck is down in oregon. I dont get to come down often to try and get things fixed. I have 131K on the truck and am contemplating a rebuild since it would be cheaper than replacing it with a V8. I dont have time to do anything on my own so it's in the shops hands when I do decide to do something.
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Kowalski
GenIII
2/04/2008
08:55:11
| RE: Wont Start
IP: Logged
Message:
Since this is a 4 stroke engine and the balancer on the crank makes 2 revolutions to the distributor's one, there's no reason to expect the rotor to always point at cyl #1 using the method you described. Were these readings taken before or after the head fix ? Follow up with a wet compression test ? (if the #'s come up with a wet test, that could indicate bad rings) You should find out what the problem was that you paid $1600 to fix.
Lead, follow, or get out of the way
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