| From | Message |
toolfan
GenIII
7/27/2006
17:01:46
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 Subject: do i need a rebuild?
IP: Logged
Message:
My trans maybe going out or maybe it is just the tq converter that is causing all this.
this is on a 44re.
symptoms:
truck shifts fine under light throttle. when i floor from a dead stop the truck wont shift from 1st until i let off the gas, once in 2nd gear it goes fine until it gets to about 3200rpm-4000rpm and than it feels like it slips out of gear letting the trucks engine rev to the limiter and none of the power making it to the ground. shifts through all other gears no problem, and this only happen when its under full throttle.
i just had a TransGo shift kit installed by trans guy i trust and he said the 1-2 bands are worn pretty good, but the trans still has some life left on it.
before i had the shift kit installed i didn't have this problem. i just notice that the truck wouldn't kick down into second gear when it should have.
i had a friend that after a full tranny rebuild and shift kit install on the 46re it would do this. do you think that this could be something to do with the shift kit?
thanks... ..
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RadioMan
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/28/2006
06:42:37
|  RE: do i need a rebuild?
IP: Logged
Message:
Your first mistake was messen with the tranny
and second was letting a tranny shop or anyone
else do the job.
DC's trannies are VERY iffie out of the factory..
Bands worn? If a tranny guy told you that, keep
him away from your Dakota! No such thing as
"bands" in trannys!
Rebuild? You'll be VERY VERY luckey to find
ANOYONE, AHYWHERE that knows ANYTHING about
rebuilding one.. It seems to be a lost art.
Might think about trading it in...
Good luck
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vern
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/28/2006
08:24:38
|  RE: do i need a rebuild?
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Message:
i don,t know where radioman got his info,BUT its WRONG!!!
if everything worked fine before the trans kit then i would say the kit may have been installed wrong or wrong fluid installed,[i,m not saying your trans man is bad he may have just over-looked something]also check all wiring connections and sensors,every thing from the tps to the pressure sensor can cause weird things with the trans
a DC dealer can hook up and tell you how things are working on a RE trans and some garages can to that have the program[i know the pros and cons on this]
good luck
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toolfan
GenIII
7/28/2006
16:32:03
| RE: do i need a rebuild?
IP: Logged
Message:
thanks for the advice and he use dexron mercon 111. i think the fluid is what is causing all this.
the guy that did the work is a mopar guy.
so none of my problems would be caused by the tq converter?
thanks for the advice and i will check the sensors.
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vern
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/28/2006
17:39:40
| RE: do i need a rebuild?
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Message:
get that fluid out and replace with chrysler
+3 or +4 depending on the yr and see how it acts then
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novaDAK
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/28/2006
22:04:56
| RE: do i need a rebuild?
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Message:
You should only use ATF+3 since you have a '98 (I do too). ATF+4 will work too but it's more expensive and I've heard it can cause slipping.
If that doesn't resolve the issue, try this:
If it's holding 1st gear and won't kick down, it sounds like your TV cable needs adjustment (plenty of posts on this site so do a quick search)
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shatto
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/29/2006
02:27:38
| RE: do i need a rebuild?
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Message:
Maybe if you stopped trying to see how much weight you can put in the bed.....
Maybe California is different. No, I mean as far as mechanics are concerned;
A certified mechanic (AAA approved, for example) should be able to help you. The dealer has to have at least one good mechanic. The logic is that servicing cars is his prime source of income. He sells vehicles to generate customers for his garage. Ergo it would be stupid for him to have dissatisfied customers. Logical? Yes, it is.
So, ask friends, the guy with the truck he loves, racers, your mechanic, Rotary and Lions Club member, all of them, where they would send their mom to have her transmission looked at. My mechanic was recommended by a body shop.
My wifes Prelude went from being a 4-speed to 2-speed automatic at around 23,000 miles. All the clutches were worn to the metal. Rebuilt it and put Amsoil ATF in it, in spite of Honda insisting on Baby oil, or whatever they use. After all, it did fail with their stuff in it.
100,000 more trouble free miles.
Just a thought, but what do I know.
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Chris G.
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/30/2006
22:18:04
| RE: do i need a rebuild?
IP: Logged
Message:
That was kinda stupid.....the car has warranty on it i'm taking at 23,000 miles. Shatto, you will say anything to sell Amsoil.
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toolfan
GenIII
7/30/2006
23:53:27
|  RE: do i need a rebuild?
IP: Logged
Message:
well thanks for your advice and i will looking into it. the trans shifts great it just has these problems under full throttle.
the guy used ATF+4.
its probably the trans going with age.
i maybe hard on this truck but it gets great care! and so far has proven itself to me to be one very tough design.
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TexasTodd
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
7/31/2006
16:29:35
|  RE: do i need a rebuild?
IP: Logged
Message:
Reminds of someones signature:
What's your left foot doing?
I know what mine is doing, using the clutch when I shift!!
I know, a pointless post, but I kinda like pointing out, that Daks like mine, can be ordered with a manual, like mine was.
My wife likes to drive it too!
Whish I could help ya....
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toolfan
GenIII
8/03/2006
03:07:39
| RE: do i need a rebuild?
IP: Logged
Message:
ouch Todd! hit me in a soft spot! i would have loved a manual!
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novaDAK
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/04/2006
13:08:10
| RE: do i need a rebuild?
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Message:
Toolfan you had put in a trans-go shift kit right? If so, I've heard of a lot of people saying it shifts earler than it did before, but it now shifts firmer. If you are having a problem with the tranny shifting late or not at all (hitting the rev limiter) try adjusting the tranny kick down cable (throttle valve, or TV) cable on the throttle body.
Here's an old thread on this:
http://www.dodgedakota.net/boards/per/3646.html
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toolfan
GenIII
8/04/2006
14:54:13
| RE: do i need a rebuild?
IP: Logged
Message:
thanks novaDAK! did you get that cutout? Im going to make the exhaust exit before the rear wheels on mine.
i think that is all i have to do. what they were explaining i was getting. so i will give it a shot its just been so hot out that working on a truck in 110degree heat isn't fun.
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novaDAK
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
8/04/2006
18:25:21
| RE: do i need a rebuild?
IP: Logged
Message:
Yep I got the cutout on in June, and have been enjoying it alot. I passed inspection with it also, so that is also good. However, the sound isn't the best since it's right after the cat. It sounds very unmuffled if you know what I mean. I found a crack about two inches long in my flowmaster which is about 9 years old now and has a bit of rust also. The welds are also starting to rust to the point if you rub it some rust will flake off like sand, so I am thinking of swapping the whole thing out for a glasspack, not sure if I'll keep the cutout where it is. My first choice is to have the cutout right behind the y-pipe for when I go off-roading (no sound or emissions regulations) and just have a glasspack with a short tailpipe. I'm just not sure if any shop around here will put it in front of the cat due to them worried about liability. Plus, I'm not even sure if they'd allow it for "race-only" use. Anyways, on a different thread I had talked to GraphiteDak and he had said that if I were to just leave the tailpipe off the glasspack it wouldn't sound good, that I needed a tailpipe exiting the vehicle. The thing is that right now I'm not sure if I should re-use the stock tailpipe which is rusty, or spend for a new pipe. The problem with that is that then I'd have the stock pipe in front of the cat which will need to be replaced down the road in a year or two. That is why I'm thinking of either having the glasspack put in with a turndown on it before the axle, or reusing the stock tailpipe and just having it cut off just before it is visible from the outside of the truck for the cleaner look.
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toolfan
GenIII
8/06/2006
15:11:24
| RE: do i need a rebuild?
IP: Logged
Message:
luck you for passing emissions. i have to take my truck in next month.
WELL i adjusted my TV Cable with great success! I had it adjusted to the point it shift like i didn't have a shift kit in it and it was back to how it shift before i took it into have the shift kit installed, at 3600rpm under full throttle. i think on my 4th try i found the stop that will work for me. its shifting at 5000rpm 1st gear, 2nd gear 4200rpm. the cable was adjusted to tight.
thanks for the advice and Novadak thanks for the link and im happy it was something so simple.
im working on have the exhaust exit right before the left rear tire so i will get some sound clips when its all done.
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Fed
GenII
8/07/2006
01:59:30
|  RE: do i need a rebuild?
IP: Logged
Message:
toolfan...
something is wrong with your transmission or computer
it should shift at (or one or two hundred RPM's below) redline through 1st, 2nd, 3rd, ALL of the shifts...
why does it shift at 4200 from 2nd to 3rd?
'93 Dakota CC 3.9 auto
(4.10 gears, LSD, exhaust, FIPK, lowered, rear anti-sway bar)
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toolfan
GenIII
8/08/2006
06:30:39
| RE: do i need a rebuild?
IP: Logged
Message:
just tired i guess and the shift cable is not set perfect.
shifts out a 3rd at 3500rpm or sooner.
i think im going to rebuild my trans for my senior project instead of the 727.
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Fed
GenII
8/09/2006
01:09:10
| RE: do i need a rebuild?
IP: Logged
Message:
yeah i suggest you do that...
that must be so annoying when you're racing!
'93 Dakota CC 3.9 auto
(4.10 gears, LSD, exhaust, FIPK, lowered, rear anti-sway bar)
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Super bee
GenI
8/12/2006
11:31:56
| RE: do i need a rebuild?
IP: Logged
Message:
put the cutout after the y pipe
im not sure how it will wound on yours but mine is sweet
i wish i had a sound clip for you, but it may not sound the same seeing as i have headers
but it has no pipe coming off from it
1990 sport RC SB, 1995 318drivetrain, 3.92 gears (came with truck) 95 dash/steering wheel, hearthrob exhaust, headers, cutout after y-pipe, necessary electric fan add-a-leafs, 30x9.5 mud tires, cranked T-bars, AR 39 15x8 rims, grill guard, roll bars
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