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Stuck
Dodge Dakota
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4/02/2006
20:59:07
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 Subject: getting rotor off
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I am having trouble getting one of the front rotors off my wife's '01 Durango. I believe they are just held on by the caliper/lugs, correct, or am I missing something? I hit it a few times with a claw hammer, but I am afraid to go nuts on it and break it and then be stuck in my garage with half an already thin rotor. Although, I do believe in the theory, "if force doesn't work, apply more force."
Any suggestions?
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Catfish Craig
Dodge Dakota
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4/02/2006
21:34:49
|  RE: getting rotor off
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If the rotor has never been removed, there are small retainers on the bolts. Sometimes you have to look closely. If that isn’t it, give it a good whack to break the rust between the hub and rotor, It is pretty hard to break one, just don’t hit the brake surface.CC
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Jim
Dodge Dakota
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4/02/2006
22:06:12
| RE: getting rotor off
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The rotors get pretty well stuck, I have used a 3lb sledge and swung as hard as I can to get them off. Another route is to put a pry bar between edge or rotor and edge of caliper mount, pry till you hear a crack it will come off!
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Lurkin
Dodge Dakota
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4/03/2006
09:38:46
| RE: getting rotor off
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As they've said above, it takes some (sometimes medieval) effort to break 'em loose. First, make sure the lock washer is removed, and don't worry about breaking it as you don't need to re-install it. Next, time to beat the crap out of it.
On my 02, one side came off with only a bit of beating with a deadblow hammer (easier on the ears...). The other side had to be beaten, pried, and "coaxed" into coming loose. I wasn't sure if I was going to get it to come off, but it finally did. You might also use a wood block to keep from damaging the existing rotor, just in case you decide to let someone else deal with it.
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Chris G.
Dodge Dakota
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4/03/2006
10:11:41
| RE: getting rotor off
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Did you take the Carter key, nut retainer and nut off? that's what normally holds a rotor on.
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Chris G
Dodge Dakota
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4/03/2006
10:13:21
| RE: getting rotor off
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Good luck.
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Stuck
Dodge Dakota
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4/03/2006
13:29:23
| RE: getting rotor off
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I forgot to mention, I did take those retainer things off - they look like washers right? For now I just buttoned it back up. I'll give it another shot in a couple of days. I'll get out my bigger hammers next time.
Thanks
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DanK
Dodge Dakota
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4/03/2006
13:57:13
| RE: getting rotor off
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When you get them off, drill and tap two holes opposite each other close to the center. Then when you want to take off the rotor, merely insert a bolt in each hole and screw them in, and the rotor will be forced away from the hub.
Word of caution if you do this: make sure the edges of the new holes are burr-free, or the rotor might not seat properly against the hub and you'll get brake pulsations.
That was the first modification I made to mine when I got it home, so I would always be able to get the rotors off. Both my Tacoma and Nissan pickups have this from the factory.
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Chris G
Dodge Dakota
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4/03/2006
20:42:31
| RE: getting rotor off
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I recommend that if you are changing rotors, ALWAYS change both, not just one on one side. This can cause an off-balance and could lead to problems in alignment and vibrations during braking. Before performing this procedure, HAVE WHEEL BEARING GREASE!!!!!! The inside of the rotor has to be packed with it along with the bearings. This grease reduced friction and helps reduce heat stress. Synthetic wheel bearing grease is best. This is something that is of vast importance and buy the best you can afford (suggestion).
Items needed normally in an average situation:
1. Wheel Bearing Grease (preferrably synthetic)
2. A new dust seal for each rotor (Taps in back)
3. Brake Cleaner (Optional but VERY USEFUL)
4. The tools (sockets, wrenches, ratchests, etc.)
5. Replacement Carter Keys (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!)
6. Preferrably a bearing packing tool (Optional)
7. Grease Gun for use with packing tool(Optional)
8. Lots of paper towels or rags (VERY USEFUL)
9. Gloves (Optional)
Here are the steps of changing a rotor:
1. Jack up car
2. Remove tires on the rotors you are servicing
3. (Optional) Clean area very well
4. Remove the brake caliper(s)
5. Remove the metal "dust cap" with a screwdriver
6.Remove Carter key (Google for picture)
7.Remove Rotor Nut Retainer (metal piece with grooves). Reminds me of a castletop.
8. Remove Rotor Nut and the grooved washer behind that
9. Rotor should now pull off.
10. Inspect grease for any metal shavings.
11. If metal is present, you probably have bad bearing.
12. Remove bearings if reusing and check them for abnormal or excessive wear.
13 Thoroughly clean the bearings all the way off. Some people use a parts washer, but normally this is where the brake cleaner comes in.
14. Buy new items as necessary. If wheel bearings are bad, buy new. Be sure to have new dust boots (round rubber seal that is tapped in back of rotor) avaliable for the new rotors or else you could be a victim of grease loss later down the road and ruin bearing(s).
15. Try to clean all of the old grease off of the arm where the rotor slides on.
16. Regrease generously (coat really good).
17. Take first new rotor out of box, be careful not to drop it. Do following steps in a CLEAN environment!!!
18. AFTER you have bearings fully cleaned and non-greasy as well as COMPLETELY dried, repack them with new grease. You can do this by first putting a nice sized greaseball in your hands and forcefully rub it into the bearing for awhile until it is thoroughly full fo grease. If you have a bearing packing tool, use this instead. Gloves are recommended. Be careful to keep the bearing and rotor away from dirt or other things that could mix with the grease and damage the bearings while operating.
19. After packing the bearing with grease, take new rotor and turn it to it's backside and generously grease the inside hole. Normally the LARGE bearing goes in the outside of the rotor (facing vehicle). Put the outside bearing in being careful. Be sure this has a lot of grease as well as the rotor-hole. After you have applied bearing to rotor, tap in the new dust boot (dust seal). This will keep your grease inside the rotor and other things out. Be careful not to damage the seal. Only tap the outside edge!!! never hit the rubber!!.
20. After you complete step 19, Make sure the arm that the rotor slides on is very greasy. Don't be sparing, put a lot on there. Slide rotor on over the arm like the old one came off being careful of damaging the dust seal. Make sure dust deal slides over rise in arm. At this point you should ONLY have the bearing facing the vehicle in.
21. After you slide the rotor on, preferrably have someone hold the rotor still while you finish packing the space between the arm and the rotor with grease. Get as much as you can in there. This is one of the most important things. Now push the outside bearing in (Make sure this one is packed with grease too!!)
21. Slide the grooved washer on over the bearing then start the wheel nut. start tightening the nut. As you tighten the nut, grease should start oozing out the rotor hole. This is normal. Wipe any excess away with a rag or paper towel. Tighten down until very snug. This sets the new rotor all the way back on the arm. Back off ONLY until there is no resistance in turning the rotor, but NO moving in it whatsoever from side to side (wobbling). Wobbling means the rotor is too loose. After getting this specification with the rotor nut making sure everything is right, replace the rotor nut retainer (Grooved round piece) and insert a new Carter key!!. This Carter key and the retainer is what keeps the rotor nut from moving. Slide carter key between the grooves. It should slide all the way through. Bend the ends in opposite directions. After this, I normally fill metal cap with grease. After this tap the metal cap on and you are done!!! Clean up any grease that may have gotten on friction surface of rotor.
22. Replace brake caliper assembly to specifications
23. Replace tire tightening wheel lugnuts down to specifications.
24. You are now done!!!
Repeat these steps for every rotor you replace.
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Chris G.
Dodge Dakota
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4/03/2006
20:47:28
| RE: getting rotor off
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Helpful?? LOL I meant the outside bearings facing the vehicle as being the inside ones. My bad.
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