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greg
Dodge Dakota
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3/18/2006
14:35:26

Subject: Replacing Brake Rotor Question
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I am putting new rotors and pads on my 99 dakota 2wd. I was wondering what to torque the caliper and the caliper bracket by. I read on a firebird they did 24 ft-lbs on the caliper, and 74 ft-lbs on the caliper bracket, but i don't know if this is universal. also i have heard there are "wierd" hex or torx screws that are used. I am going to sears to get a torque wrench and some jack stands and was wondering if there is anything else i need to buy special that normal tool sets don't have to do the job. I want to be as cheap as i can.

Thanks in advance



ucimaplaya2
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3/18/2006
15:52:58

RE: Replacing Brake Rotor Question
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according to alldata the hex bolts are supposed to be torqued to 22 ft lbs. as for special tools, the only one you would need is a hex bit that you can throw on that torque wrench to tighten those bolts. I believe its a 7mm but im not sure because i never looked at the size i just grabbed it, so don't count on that being the right size. it sounds a bit small now that i think of it but it might be right.



ucimaplaya2
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3/18/2006
15:58:12

RE: Replacing Brake Rotor Question
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oh and once you get the wheel off you will see that you will not have to worry about the torque specs for a caliper mounting bracket.



DakotaCC
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3/18/2006
17:04:38

RE: Replacing Brake Rotor Question
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I just did my rotors last night. The caliper pins take a 7mm allen wrench. Be sure to clean them before re-inserting, and make sure the threads are started straight as they are easy to cross. 22 ft-lbs is what I used on the pins. You won't need to disturb the caliper carriers, just remove the two 7mm allen head caliper pins.

A wooden hand screw clamp (cabinet maker's clamp) works well for squeezing the pistons back so you can put in new pads and get them over the rotors. Hardest part of the job for me was getting the old rotors off once the calipers were removed...

Good luck,

DakotaCC



greg
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3/19/2006
15:56:02

RE: Replacing Brake Rotor Question
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Thanks guys, and yeah i guess there was just a post about this, so sorry for starting another. I plan on doing the brakes next weekend.

Oh, and one more opinion/question. Do I need to do a full fledged bleed on the brakes when installing, or can i just remove some of the fluid from the reservoir before I push back the calipers pistons a bit.



Peter
Dodge Dakota
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3/20/2006
13:17:08

RE: Replacing Brake Rotor Question
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Greg, you shouldn't need a bleed as long as you aren't opening the system up. Make sure to watch that the fluid doesn't overflow out of the master cylinder. One guy said it screwed up his brake booster after leaking in. Be careful with those caliper pins, I stripped out a couple using the factory torque settings, but they might have been stripped from a previous brake job.



Dan
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3/20/2006
14:03:10

RE: Replacing Brake Rotor Question
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Brake fluid will also take paint off. So there is another reason not to
let it over flow.



greg
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3/20/2006
21:30:03

RE: Replacing Brake Rotor Question
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Thanks all for your help/info. Will tell you how it goes next weekend.



The Purple1
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3/21/2006
03:44:41

RE: Replacing Brake Rotor Question
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Hi, greg!

Just my two cents, but if it were me I would ALWAYS bleed the system when installing new pads or shoes. No, it's not absolutely mandatory, but you do then get clean, fresh fluid in there instead of the nasty, black, loaded-with-moisture-and-crud fluid that makes your pedal spongy and degrades seals, bores, hoses and pistons. Also, doing this regularly helps avoid continuing probs with corroded bleeder screws since you're paying attention to them...

Average brake fluid life is about two years for the best performance; have a look at yours!

Doesn't take much extra time and supplies, and you'll thank yourself for it later..

360 Air Intakez, 52 MM Holley Billet, Ported, Hughes Plenum Plate, Perma Cool Fan, Jacobs Pro Street, Moroso Ultra 40, Bosch 4, Superchips, TPS, CPS, IAT Mods, Dynomax Ultra Flo, Transgo, SLT Trim, Diamond Heads & Corners, Clear Tails, Hood Pins, APC White Gauge, PML Polished Trans & Diff Covers

JimmyD
Dodge Dakota
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3/21/2006
13:55:49

RE: Replacing Brake Rotor Question
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The brake fluid in both my '98 Tacoma and '96 Nissan pickup is 4 years old and still clear in the master cylinder reservoir. My 2004 Dakota's brake fluid has the color of used oil. My wife's 2000 Grand Cherokee's fluid gets dark within a year also. What's up with Chrysler brake systems?




greg
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3/27/2006
10:46:15

RE: Replacing Brake Rotor Question
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well, i got them on... after about 5 hours!!! (which included putting on new wheels) It was also caused by the fact that I was short on a few tools and had to run out at 10 o'clock to get them. I ended up having to use a the wedged end of the jack bar assembly to pull the rotors off. But the new brakes look and work perfectly.

On another note, one of the reasons the project took so long is the back two wheels were "welded" onto the brakes. It was so damned hard to get them off. We finally took the jack and wedged it between the spring mount and the wheel and pried them off. It took 5 times more effort than it does to lift the truck. When it finally came off all we saw was some rust...I still don't know how it was being held on. The only thing we could think is the exposed metal started a chemical reaction and bonded with the drum brakes.

But in the end all is good. I will have pictures of the posted job on my cardomain website when I take them.




Terry
Dodge Dakota
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3/28/2006
23:46:35

RE: Replacing Brake Rotor Question
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For what it's worth, the reason your drums came off so hard is that (possibly) the shoe had worn a track in the drum, and when you were prying the drum off, you were also prying against the shoe. I've had that happen more than once. FYI.

Glad everything worked for you.



ucimaplaya2
Dodge Dakota
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3/29/2006
00:01:50

RE: Replacing Brake Rotor Question
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no i think he means the wheels were stuck to the drums... its a common thing for any wheel that fits tightly against the hub (hubcentric). Actually instead of prying which is very difficult, the easiest way to remove the wheels when that happens is to kick the tire repeatedly all around the side of it. Eventually it will just pop right off.
And the trick for removing drums is to hit them with a hammer in between the studs. dont hit around the outside of it, just around the studs.



Buy oem Softw
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2/12/2012
04:48:05

RCTDkFTwLGmcDEnk
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YYP5gJ Sent the first post, but it wasn`t published. I am writing the second. It's me, the African tourist..



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