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Wesley
Dodge Dakota
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5/25/2005
14:36:23
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 Subject: Steering
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I am having lots of play and a popping feel and sound in my steering on a 98 dodge dakota 4x4. The upper and lower ball joints have been replaced as well as the tie rods. Does anyone know what this is?
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KJS
Dodge Dakota
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5/26/2005
01:23:47
| RE: Steering
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Hey Wesley i too was having the same problems on my 2000 quad, i took it in because i got that ball joint extended warranty notice but they found both upper and lower ball joints and tie rods all okay and within spec, so when i asked them why i would be getting clicking noises when i turned at slow speeds and going over bumps, the dealership said that if i wanted to find out, it would cost me, so i said okay then check it out, after the hour i was charged they told me it was in the intermediate steering shaft, but it was not to bad a problem but if i wanted it replaced for 1200 then i could, so i said no thanks i'll just turn up my radio.
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John K
Dodge Dakota
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5/26/2005
07:05:01
| RE: Steering
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The lower steering coupler (aka steering shaft) can be replaced by any competent mechanic in about one hr or less. The shaft itself is more than $200 new. The problem seems to be with the small U-joints at each end of the shaft which become corroded and fail after a few years, causing the play. If you get one from a bone-yard like I did, *make sure* their is no play or excessive corrosion on the U-joints themselves. A splash boot would have been a smart design feature by Chrysler. I had this problem on my 2000 QC 4x4, and replaced the shaft myself.
"not too bad a problem" ...if your steering fails? I think Chrysler is full of sh!t on this one, just like their denial of the ball-joint problem, and their $1200 repair estimate.
The popping noise just screams 'bad ball joints' in my opinion. Might want to check your shocks also. One of my front shocks was bone-dry and rattling, you'd think the dealership might have mentioned that to me when they replaced the ball joints a couple months ago.
Good luck
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Wesley
Dodge Dakota
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5/26/2005
08:39:05
| RE: Steering
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Thank you two for your advice. I have a new intermediate shaft priced at $260.00 through my local Dodge dealership. It seems to be the only place that you can get it. I'll try to put it on myself. There is also a rumor about a "coupler" which is a rubber boot to go on those universal joints to absorb some of the shock. I think I'll just spend the money and be safe. Thanks again.
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John K
Dodge Dakota
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5/26/2005
09:03:04
| RE: Steering
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When replacing the shaft, make sure you tie the steering wheel with a bungee cord to the grab handle or brake pedal. You may need to turn the wheel a bit either way to reach the clamp screws, but if you spin it too far (2 or 3 full turns) you can damage the clock spring.
Have fun!
;^)
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KJS
Dodge Dakota
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5/26/2005
23:29:54
| RE: Steering
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Thnaks John K i think i too will check out the bone yards and maybe see if i can change the part out myself, i changed out my heater core and evaporator so really how hard can this be.
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John K
Dodge Dakota
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5/27/2005
09:11:08
| RE: Steering
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Tips, notes and procedure for intermediate shaft (lower coupler) replacement, this I did myself on my 2000 QC 4x4 4.7 Dakota, your mileage may vary.
2001 and newer models use a different part number, and are less than half price new. I was not able to find out if they are compatible with a 2000 version and I don't know what the differences are.
The intermediate shaft I got from the bone-yard was from a 2000 Durango, it was identical to my original, but the parts guy did not know this until I suggested he check, so ask for part from a "Dakota or Durango" and specify year. 4x4 part may be different than 4x2 part, I don't know. I do know the rack & pinion units are different, so investigate and specify if in doubt.
My bone-yard specimen was very rusted, to the point where the rubber rag joint bracket was frozen to the lower shaft. This nullifies the rag joint's dampening action. There is a plastic collar that isolates the bracket from the shaft, I ended up cutting it away to 'restore' the separation and rag joint's effect. You can slip a piece of inner tube rubber between the bracket and zip-tie it to the shaft to replicate the plastic collar, if you feel it's necessary. What I'm talking about will be self evident once you have the part in hand, and is entirely optional. I ultimately sand-blasted the shaft and gave it a couple coats of rust paint.
R&R is quite easy:
1) Turn steering to straight ahead and tie steering wheel to grab handle or brake pedal with bungee so you don't lose your reference.
2) From under the truck, remove lower clamp screw completely from coupler, you may need to turn the steering a little to reach it.
3) Coupler can be compressed upwards (with some resistance) to slide off the rack & pinion input shaft.
4)Have someone rotate and hold steering wheel (with bungee on) so you can reach the upper clamp screw. You are under the vehicle again and you'll need a fairly long extension to reach it.
5) Remove upper clamp screw completely from coupler. Entire shaft should slip off fairly easily at this point (make sure it doesn't fall on your head!)
Installation is reverse procedure. Note that coupler fits to shafts one way only, and is 'keyed' by the clamp screws. The screws are also 'notched' into the shafts to act as a safety, so they must be completely out before removal and installation of coupler. Use thread locker (aka Loctite) on the screws since they are a rather important safety device that you don't want coming loose! Be careful not to over-torque these screws as the couplers they thread into are aluminum and may strip.
Examine the old coupler once you remove it. If that is the problem part, there will be obvious play in one or both of the universal joints, caused by corrosion. If that is NOT the problem, I suggest you investigate the health of your rack & pinion, tie rods and/or ball joints! My bone-yard part was well on its way to the same condition, but still serviceable and $150 cheaper than new. I coated the universals with a heavy duty farm grease to help block out moisture. I expect this part to last a year or two.
Hope someone finds this useful, good luck!
-John
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Wesley
Dodge Dakota
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5/27/2005
10:32:16
| RE: Steering
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Thanks a lot. I went ahead and bought a new shaft because I really like my truck and want to get 250,000 miles out of it and I don't like to deal with the same problem twice. You've been a big help.
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John K
Dodge Dakota
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5/27/2005
11:51:17
| RE: Steering
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Hi Wesley, question: does your 98 have a rack & pinion or recirculating ball type steering gear? The rack & pinion is a rather longish, tubular deal with distinctive accordian style rubber boots and tie rods sticking out either end. The recirculating ball type is a stubby, cylinder shape with a lever (pitman arm) sticking out the bottom attached to various bars and linkages transferring the steering motions (in case you didn't already know.) My guess is you have recirculating ball type. If the new steering shaft doesn't cure your ills, you might want to have a good mechanic check your steering gear and various linkages for excessive slack. That *should* have been checked when your tie rods where replaced, but then the mechanic *should* have noticed and diagnosed the steering play and popping noises also! Just another reason why I don't trust any mechanics.
Please let us know any mechanical differences and your final results. I have a feeling this problem is more common than Dakota/Durango owners realize, and is a relatively simple fix.
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Wesley
Dodge Dakota
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5/27/2005
13:17:04
| RE: Steering
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I was wondering the same thing this morning. While looking at a diagram of the shaft, I wondered if by having play in the shaft if that would cause me to have a loose connection with the gears in the rack and pinion. I don't know which I have but I will find out and keep you posted. Being a 4x4 makes repairs to the front end more difficult than I'm qualified for, unfortunately. Also, I've noticed that the noise and bumping feeling only occurs on left turns. I'm really frustrated because I have new ball joints and tie-rods and this is getting ridiculous.
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Wesley
Dodge Dakota
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5/27/2005
13:32:55
| RE: Steering
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Update:
I called the dealership and I have recirculating ball type steering gear. Although, Dodge calls it just gear steering or something like that. The 2 wheel drives have rack and pinion.
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John K
Dodge Dakota
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5/27/2005
13:57:10
| RE: Steering
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If I recall, the 2000 model Dakota and Durango 4x4s where the first year with r&p steering. On my truck, I replaced the rack & pinion at the same time as my steering shaft, both where shot.
The most common problem with a rack and pinion is a worn piston seal which is identifiable by noticeable leakage from one or both rubber boots. A new r&p from the dealer can cost the best part of $1000, plus labour. A recirculating ball type gear and associated components should be substantially less expensive, especially since many of the components can be replaced individually as needed ...unlike a r&p setup where everything is inside one unserviceable unit.
For sure a bad steering intermediate shaft will give you play in the steering wheel, but so will several other worn steering components. Your 'tie rod end' mechanic should have caught any related problems (including bad ball joints,) since all slop must be eliminated before the wheel alignment can be properly done.
If I where in your shoes, I would look for another reputable mechanic to inspect the steering slop and popping noises for a second opinion. Have him check the new ball joints and shocks also. Ultimately, the steering shaft may or may not be necessary in your case, I'd install it just the same.
I feel your frustration, I've spent a lot of money (that I don't have) on my truck the last few months, on things that are just poor quality, and I'm still about $500 short of being finished. My truck has 70k miles. But I like my truck, I can't afford a new one, and can't afford to be without wheels.
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Wesley
Dodge Dakota
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5/27/2005
15:17:44
| RE: Steering
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Well, I think you are right about the second opinion. I didn't have the left turn issue before I had the ball joints\tie rods replaced. But, the guy did tell me that my intermediate shaft was worn. It just looked like something I could do myself. I think he should have noticed the play in the linkage while doing the repairs. I'm going to replace the shaft first thing in the morning and if I still have the problem, I'm going to head down to that shop and place my boot in that guy's @ss.
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John K
Dodge Dakota
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5/27/2005
15:27:59
| RE: Steering
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That's the Spirit !!
:^D
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John K
Dodge Dakota
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5/27/2005
16:04:04
| RE: coupler screw torque
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the coupler screw torque is listed in the factory manual at 36 ft.lbs. (49 N.m)
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John B
Dodge Dakota
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7/28/2014
19:35:50
| RE: Steering shaft
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Message:
I have a 2000 dodge dakota std cab 4x4,I replaced the lower steering shaft with a dorman shaft which i was told by dorman only fit 2000,i pulled the old one out a matched it to the new one,the old one collaped down and the new one up,does it matter or is dorman selling me the wrong shaft
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Sharon C
Dodge Dakota
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5/14/2015
16:51:56
|  RE: Steering
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Message:
When replacing the rack and pinion steering in a 2002
Durango is it possible to damage the clock spring?
My racking and pinion bar and power steering pump was
replaced after that work was done my air bag light
wouldn't go off,the horn didn't work, or the cruise
controls on the steering wheel the clock spring had
to then be replaced. Could the damage to the clock
spring have been caused from the previous work to the
rack and pinion bar?
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Jonboy857
Dodge Dakota
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3/03/2016
17:07:06
| RE: Steering
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Message:
I got a 97 Dakota 4x4 The steering shaft that I pulled out of it
is for a 2 Wheel Drive how do I actually know which one is the
right one are they interchangeable
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