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jcarmichael
Dodge Dakota
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1/02/2005
22:11:17

Subject: 92 dakota 5.2 193k
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My dakota stalled in traffic 3 weeks ago and will not start. I originally thought it was a fuel pump problem because I had one in the past. I have since concluded that it is not the pump and not fuel related at all. I have no fire and have traced it back as far as the ignition coil which is not getting power into it. fuses and relays all check good. I don't believe it is the computer. Other than the possibility of a burnt or pinched wire somewhere between the coil and the computer are there any suggestions of where to look for another faulty component or sensor? It was mentioned to me to check the crank sensor as it may fail to send power to the coil if that sensor fails. That will be my next step, but are there any other suggestions?



wadak
GenIII
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1/02/2005
22:40:15

RE: 92 dakota 5.2 193k
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jcarmichael
It's possible that you have the problem common to the Gen2 daks. Inside the harness below the power distribution box about 8 to 10 inches down there is a connection 0f 4 or 5 red wires that can become corrided with corrision that looks like a greenish mold. This connection kills power to ignition and fuel. The best thing to do is remove all insulation around this connection, seperate all the wires clean them up and resolder and retape this connection. I hope this helps. The auto shutdown relay will shut down fuel and ignition power if it doesnt receive an input from crank position and cam position sensors within 2 seconds. So replace or check them alsoespecially with the kind of mileage you have on your truck. Good Luck and report back.

92 and 97 Daks both with many mods.

jcarmichael
Dodge Dakota
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1/07/2005
16:38:20

RE: 92 dakota 5.2 193k
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I got a few minutes and pulled the crank pos sensor. It was a little rough looking with alot of grit and of course some oil. I plan to clean it up and give it a try, but there is also a 2" long crack down the back of the sensor. It is not separating, but it is noticeable. I priced a new one at a local auto parts store at 80.00. Is there any way to check the sensor or bypass it to see if that is indeed the problem before dropping too much money on the unknown?



wadak
GenIII
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1/08/2005
23:37:43

RE: 92 dakota 5.2 193k
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jcarmichael,

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/
ExecMacro/NAPAonline/
search_results_product_detail.d2w/
report?prrfnbr=28514670&
prmenbr=5806&usrcommgrpid=86980162

Napaonline has a crank position sensor for 44.99

Part no.ECHCSS625

If it's cracked I would replace it.

Have you check the Scrader valve on the fuel injector rail for fuel pressure, another possiblity.

92 and 97 Daks both with many mods.

jcarmichael
Dodge Dakota
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1/12/2005
21:42:56

RE: 92 dakota 5.2 193k
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Changed the Crank sensor and ended up finding a cracked oil pressure sensor at the same time. Unfortunately neither solved the problem. Made a 3 prong jumper for the auto shut down relay and got the fuel pump to operate and the ignition switch to energize with the key off, so I turned the key on for the ignition switch and ran the jumper to the fuel pump terminal and the remaining one to the last terminal which I assume is the circuit going to the distributor via the ignition coil. I then turned it over and checked for power at the ignition coil with an inline test light hooked up between the coil post and coil wire. Still no power there. Then I decided to run another jumper strait from the battery to the input side of the ignition coil and what do ya know there was power!, but only when I first turned the key on and maybe one or two flickers during rotation. It was not continuous. I pulled the distributor cap off and discovered the "sync signal generator" as referred to by the Haynes manual. Since this is a multi port inj. this assy consists of a switchplate assy that has a pickup which senses a pulse ring in the distributor. The pickup on the switchplate assy has no real procedures for checking continuity, but I was told that I should see some sort of arcing between the pulse ring and the pickup. It was dark out and I had someone turn it over again with the relay jumped, but to my surprise there was no arcing that I could detect through the small opening in the switchplate and the distributor output shaft. I really think this is my problem, but unless I find someone with the same motor to pull the part off of, there is no way to tell. Also the switchplate assy isnt listed at most auto parts stores, just the distributor cap and kit. The only other route I know to take right now has to do with some recommendations I have recieved to check the wiring under the relay center for corrosion and damage. I pulled all the tape off and pulled the box away from the wall. The only thing I found there was some of the wires going to the relay being in need of new tape and therefore may have been creating a short where they are fused together (do to bare wires touching the sidewall), but none of the fusable links were bad and none of the wires were actually broken apart. As I continued to troubleshoot, I started noticing something that I didn't before and therefore I think it may be something I did during troubleshooting, but now when I jumper the relay I notice that if I energize the fuel pump (I can hear the fuel through the rail), and then turn the key or jump the ignition switch terminal, the fuel pump shuts off until I remove the power from the ignition. I don't know if this was this way from the start or maybe I shorted something else out. If any of you can make heads or tails of all this information, feel free to offer any opinions. My opinion is I should load it up on a dolly and take it to someone who knows. I'm not cheap, just want to learn it myself. One final topic if anyone has read this far. If the motor turns but will not start, can a diagnostic computer even help me?



RAVIN
Dodge Dakota
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10/16/2005
18:44:35

RE: 92 dakota 5.2 193k
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i got 92 dodge dakota 4 wheel drive 5.2. i had same problem in the begining.i started my truck it ran a few seconds and cut off. no fire from the coil. when you turn on the switch there should not be any fire on the hot side of the coil till you rotate the eng. i had none . a friend found that a wire from the distributor conector was making a {bad connection}.now i got fire and it will run,but something else is wrong.the distributor cap has intermittent fire to all 8 plug wires. most of the time it fires on 3 or 4 wires.i really got a problem . i dont no if it helps you but , i replaced the coil,crank position sen,fuel relay,computer,hall affect in the distributor,brass block bushing under distributor,oil pump shaft,fuses,check wires & splicers for corrotion,check voltage in several differant places,check ohms.checked the sink affect on distibutor 0 or 5 volts,changed plugs ,wires ,cap 3 times ,rotor 2 times,check ground wires,tested altinator,check the yellow wire in steering colume from the halo ring ignition switch. if yurs is fixed good fer you . let me no what fixed it please thanks



Sneezer
Dodge Dakota
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10/17/2005
13:13:40

RE: 92 dakota 5.2 193k
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The splice mentioned earlier is not a fusible link. It is really obvious when you see it. It would be a good idea to re solder that splice, as they all fail over time, especially if the truck has been in the rain for any significant amount of time.



Dan M
Dodge Dakota
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10/17/2005
13:38:43

RE: 92 dakota 5.2 193k
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I was just a victim of this. Resoldered the splice, all is well.

Mine was not heavily corroded, the one wire was a little lose. Just looking at it, I would not have tought it to be a problem, but it was. I'd suggest everyone redo this splice.

- Dan M



RAVIN
Dodge Dakota
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10/19/2005
00:29:33

RE: 92 dakota 5.2 193k
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hey, i also noticed my amp. gauge is intermitantly charging , runs like battery is dead,alt was checked,comp was changed. i dont now if we have the same problem, but im ready to use tnt. on my distributer cap i dont have sparkon all prongs all the time.i have had 3 machanics to look at it .they all leave scraching their heads. sorry i can fix urs but as soon as i fix mine i will post so you can see what it was. thanks



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