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Penryn
Dodge Dakota
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8/02/2004
07:40:50
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 Subject: Gas gauge needle dead.
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Message:
For a couple years, the gas gauge has not functioned properly. When the tank was full, it would stay at F, but a handful of miles after, it would run down near empty. In the last six months, it just stays on E, no matter how much gas is in the tank.
Any ideas? I've always assumed it's something that couldn't be fixed unless a sensor in the tank was replaced, but maybe it's something I can do without taking off the bed and doing major work?
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Penryn
Dodge Dakota
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8/02/2004
07:42:56
|  RE: Gas gauge needle dead.
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Message:
Forgot to mention, 1995 3.9L
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RadioMan
Dodge Dakota
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8/02/2004
11:03:29
|  RE: Gas gauge needle dead.
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Message:
99% of the time the problem is the sending unit
inside the gas tank. Only way to fix it is either
drop the tank or remove the pick up box to get
at the top of the tank.
It is easier to get a few of your buddies around
and lift the pick up box off the truck. If you
have never done a job like this before, ask for
some help. It's easier than you think and MUCH
cheaper to do it yourself than have a dealer do
it.
Good luck..
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kenster
Dodge Dakota
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8/13/2004
23:33:32
|  RE: Gas gauge needle dead.
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Message:
My 95 did the same thing. I replace the whole unit in the tank and still did not work. Not cheap either. Mine finally quit altogether. I just reset the trip odometer and fill up at 220 miles. Been doing it for 3 years. But, with 227K miles on original engine and tranny, I dont expect much.
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Eric N.
Dodge Dakota
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8/15/2004
10:05:46
| RE: Gas gauge needle dead.
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Message:
91 3.9 4x4, same issue. The tranny is out on my bench right now, but I'll be tackling the dead-gauge issue next month.
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857pop
Dodge Dakota
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8/15/2004
15:34:12
| RE: Gas gauge needle dead.
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Message:
It's not major work. IMHO. Lift the bed off (easier) to get to the fuel tank. Remove the fuel pump. Fuel LEVEL UNIT is attached to the fuel pump. Remove Fuel level unit, clean the metal strips (resistors) with a #2 pencil eraser.
Pop out the middle "pin" holding the float arm to the plastic plate, and clean the copper like spring looking contacts good with the same #2 eraser. Gently bend the copper contacts downward a bit so when you put it back together it makes good contact with the resistors. Reasemble in reverse order. As you put the fuel pump back into the tank, WATCH the fuel level unit float arm and make sure that it goes parralel with the fuel tank. Otherwise the "arm" is likely (will) to get stuck on the side of the tank, making this whole process useless. I know. I had to remove my bed twice because of this. (live and learn). I just did mine two weeks ago. Gauge works perfectly now. $0.10 cents in parts for the pencil, and about half a day. Glad I did it.
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Noltz
Dodge Dakota
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8/15/2004
21:49:16
| RE: Gas gauge needle dead.
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Message:
How did you lift the bed off the truck? Is there a lot of wiring? I need to fix the gas gauge, and replace the filler neck, so if this is the best way I'm game.
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857pop
Dodge Dakota
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8/16/2004
15:38:17
| RE: Gas gauge needle dead.
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Message:
8 bolts. Start at the rear bumper. Crawl under truck. Just look up and find the 8 bolts that hold the bed down. 4 behind the wheels, 4 in front of the wheels. While you're under the bumper, disconnect the tail lights and drop the spare tire. Once the spare tire is removed, remove the "rod" that lowers the spare tire.
Remove the 4 clamps that hold the Fuel Filler tube (from your gas cap area) hoses. 2 hoses, one big, one small. 2 rubber hoses held in place by 4 screw typed clamps.
Once that is done, you're all set to lift the bed. You really need 3 people for this. Two lift the front part of the part (next to cab) while the 3rd person slides a 2x4 (or whatever) under the front part of the bed. Then lower the bed onto the 2x4. Next, 2 people lift the back end of the wheel wells straight up...........
to get enough clearance to get the bed up and over the bumper. Then slide the whole bed straight back and let it rest on the rear bumper. All you need is about 3 feet to get access to the tank. The 2x4 is used because SOMETHING "catches" the front part of the bed as you try to slide backwards. The 2x4 keeps the bed from catching as you are sliding it backwards.
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