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brentsdak
Dodge Dakota
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7/23/2004
22:17:48
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 Subject: A/C Blower motor//Dealer Rip Off?
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I took my dakota to the dealer today because the blower motor did not work. I received a phone call and was told the blower motor and resistor were both bad and the cost would be $410/W Labor. The dealer then calls me and says when they tried the system the blower only worked on low speeds so they needed to replace the switch on the dash. I thought this was strange that all 3 parts would go out at the same time so I asked for them to leave the old parts in my truck. I brought everything home and I tried hooking up the blower motor to a 12volt battery and it worked perfectly. I call the dealer and he told me that they tested it and it had "bad resistance". Does this sound right to anyone or is the dealer ripping me off? Thanks for everyone's input.
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I smell
Dodge Dakota
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7/24/2004
21:51:15
| RE: A/C Blower motor//Dealer Rip Off?
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dealer torosite
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Dodgeguy
Dodge Dakota
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7/27/2004
16:25:19
|  RE: A/C Blower motor//Dealer Rip Off?
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A similar thing happened to me at the dealer.
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peedee
Dodge Dakota
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7/27/2004
16:51:49
| RE: A/C Blower motor//Dealer Rip Off?
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More than likely, your resistor block is bad if it works only on high. You have proven that the motor is good, so the only things left to my knowledge are the resistor block and the switch.
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brentsdak
Dodge Dakota
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7/28/2004
21:11:14
| RE: A/C Blower motor//Dealer Rip Off?
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I received more clarification today from the dealer and they told me the following.
They checked the motor by testing the ohms when the motor was running at full speed. He told me that it indicated the motor was going to go out soon and to read "ohms law". Should I try and take this further or just eat the $400 bucks.
Thanks, Brent
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93 Dak
Dodge Dakota
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7/28/2004
21:52:18
|  RE: A/C Blower motor//Dealer Rip Off?
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I would ask them to show you how they performed the test, the actual values & how they evaluated the results. Ask to see the "standards" that tell them when to reject (replace) the blower.
most of the problems are in the resistor block...but not all!
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peedee
Dodge Dakota
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7/29/2004
06:20:35
| RE: A/C Blower motor//Dealer Rip Off?
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If you try to check "ohm's" = resistance, with voltage in the circut, the meter will go poof. If they are "megging" the motor = checking the integrity of the winding insulation with a sensitive ohm's meter, the meter will provide voltage enough to test and not cook itself. Sounds more like a scam now! Or an incompetent trying to cover-up with a customer who had the audacity to question. Also: trying to test any component such as that while it is in a circut cannot give accurate results. The motor MUST be isolated. The only thing that they could have meant if they were legit, is that they looked at current draw. If that is the case then did they isolate the motor? If not then the resistor block is part of the equation, and that is a usless test of the motor. Either way, the motor must be isolated, much like you did. So get yourself an amps meter, hook the motor to a 12v source and look at the draw see if it is within parameters for that motor. Let it run for a bit to see if it starts to climb because of a bad bushing getting hot. For accuracy, a "swing" meter is best, a digital will hunt around too much, and won't show start current. Start current is usually 10 times run current until the motor is up to speed. The most common failures of motors such as that are: dirt in the windings causing excessive heat and ultimately insulation breakdown, and lack of oil to the bushing/bearing causing excessive load, which eventually causes excessive heat and insulation breakdown. If you want a lot of useful tools for automotive electrical, go here http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_topics.asp?FID=1 Look in the left column to find the good stuff. I use this site for reference alot when I need to identify wires.
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Dakaty
GenIII
7/29/2004
17:30:58
| RE: A/C Blower motor//Dealer Rip Off?
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Message:
Take it to a different dealer and have then check it.
14.63 @ 91.8
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Hurl
Dodge Dakota
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7/29/2004
17:48:07
| RE: A/C Blower motor//Dealer Rip Off?
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Message:
peedee is quite correct. You got ripped off.
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RadioMan
Dodge Dakota
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7/30/2004
09:17:40
|  RE: A/C Blower motor//Dealer Rip Off?
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Message:
Yup, a clear case of dealer rip off! If you wrote
a check, stop payment! Put it on your credit card,
call and have the payment stopped.
The ONLY way to get even is to fight back! Let
them take you to small claims court. You got the
proof. Their bull crap about taking a OHM reading
while motor is running can't be done.
Don't let them get away with it!
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Peedee
Dodge Dakota
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7/30/2004
14:21:12
| RE: A/C Blower motor//Dealer Rip Off?
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Message:
Before you go any further, you need to test that motor. Check as I described in the other post. Or, go to an altenator or small motor shop and have them test it. Anyone that plays a bit with vehicles should have a medium quality meter. Like I stated before though, a swing meter is better for diagnostics.
You could also hook the motor to the battery - keep it a safe distance in case it burns - and let it run for a while. It is an "air over" motor, so it needs to have some sort of fan like the one that was attached to it. The temp of the casing should not exceed 40 F above the ambient temp. If it does, the motor is under load for the reason(s) I explained before. When a resistor block blows, it blows. The coils will be cracked and/or part missing, so it is obvious. Go buy a meter for volt/ohms and get an amps meter too. Should be seperate devices. To test that motor you want to start with a high amp setting, remember that motors start with 10 times run current. So if that motor is protected (properly) by a 30 amp fuse, you can assume that it will draw 300 amps at start-up until it is at run speed. It is called magnetic or polar slip -that is what is used to establish efficiency ratings for motors. That is why motors hum if locked-up. So get a meter that can handle it or you will have to get the motor running and then check it. An in-line meter is the least expensive, but you are restricted to what can be tested. The best to get for most applications is a "pick-up" type. the type with a jaw that surrounds the wire to sense the lines of flux.
Whenever you 'go after' someone, there is one golden rule to abide by. If you do not, you WILL!!! get bit sooner or later.
The golden rule is:
ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS know the answer, BEFORE you ask the question!!! and knowing the answer(s) will allow you to lead them down the path of their own demise. But most importantly, you will not look like a fool when they discredit you with an answer you did not expect. OOPS! No further questions your honor, and may I have your permission to run from the courtroom to hide my face in shame ..... lol
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DSW
Dodge Dakota
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7/30/2004
20:59:27
| RE: A/C Blower motor//Dealer Rip Off?
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Message:
I feel for you man, your story is the reason I do my own wrenching.
The dealer probably;
1- replaced the motor first $150 $cha ching$
2- replaced the switch $50 $cha ching$
3- replaced the resistor $10
4- dang I is a goood mekanik and got er fixed
5- all dems parts was bad!
You can figure out resistance when the motor is running, but not with an ohm meter, they would need a volt meter and ammeter. Voltage/current=resistance, though I highly doubt they used a volt meter and ammeter to figure out the resistance of the motor while it was running, example 14v/5a=2.8 ohms. Why not ask what they used to test the motor's resistance (while running) and how they figured out the resistance of the motor.
Heck, I have a power supply at home that I could figure out the resistance of the motor while running, it has both voltage and current meters showing the voltage being supplied to the motor and the current being drawn by the motor.
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