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lee
Dodge Dakota
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7/10/2004
00:12:14
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 Subject: R12 or 134
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I have a 1990 Dodge Dakota and want to know if it uses R12 or 134. can anyone help cuz I'm roasting here in Phoenix.. thanks
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um
Dodge Dakota
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7/10/2004
01:34:51
|  RE: R12 or 134
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this stuff always amazes me
have you ever considered going to, oh i don't know.... a mechanic who works on air conditioning?
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Dude
Dodge Dakota
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7/11/2004
07:58:29
| RE: R12 or 134
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If the system has never been changed over, then it will be R-12. When changing over there are decals that should be installed to identify the freon in the system.
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Bob Lincoln
Dodge Dakota
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7/11/2004
10:42:59
| RE: R12 or 134
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Also, an original R12 system will have Schrader valves, like your tires. R134a will have quick-connect fittings.
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03 QC Sport +
Dodge Dakota
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7/11/2004
15:25:51
| RE: R12 or 134
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Lee, R134-A wasn't used regularly until 1994. The bad news: You will be real lucky if you can find R-12. The good news: its cheaper and not much harder to go ahead and convert it to 134-A. Drain the system,(with the proper recovery equipment of course) repair any leaks, replace drier/accumulator, expansion valve/tube. Drain the oil from the compressor (measure the amount you have drained and replace the same amount with Polyoil Ester. replace any o-rings you have opened with nitrile O-rings, evacuate and recharge with about 80-90 percent of the factory refrigerant charge with R134A. You will also need to add a couple of ounces of Polyoil Ester to the system when recharging. Check for leaks. I've used this method in every thing from light trucks to Ford LTL9000 Dump trucks. Have had trucks running 8 years on this conversion with no problems. This is assuming that the compressor and clutch are good. If not you will need to flush the entire system and probably need to replace the condenser as well. Good Luck
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03 QC Sport +
Dodge Dakota
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7/11/2004
15:30:19
| RE: R12 or 134
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Also install the correct fitting before recharge, Sorry
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Lab Rat
GenIII
7/11/2004
22:24:38
| RE: R12 or 134
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Ester oil is NOT approved for Sanden compressors manufactured in the US. Use only PAG for your conversion and get the oil from the dealer. Specify 02-03 model year.
Also, if you do retrofit, charge the system with 10% less R-134a than the specified R-12 amount on the underhood sticker.
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HUNTER
Dodge Dakota
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7/11/2004
22:46:07
| RE: R12 or 134
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You should also buy a good pressure gauge so you wont over charge the system.You can get one for around 20 bucks.
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GraphiteDak
GenIII
7/12/2004
01:54:53
| RE: R12 or 134
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Like he said. Make SURE you get the old oil out of the old compressor. I've seen first hand what happens when you DON'T!!!
My sisterss Saturn turned the charge into what looked like GEAR OIL!
I had to purge the system with dry nitrogen and vacuum it several times to get it clean.
Then I got lucky. Her car was a 1992 I think. I got a good compressor from a junk yard car that had 134A and all the same connections. The compressor bolted right up. With that, flushing it out and replacing the filter dryer and condenser (she wrecked the condenser anyway) it has been fine for over a year.
So far I have NEVER changed the TXV/metering device. It works just fine with the existing one. Just get the old oil out and use the proper type and be SURE to pull a deep vacuum to 500 microns if possible.
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GraphiteDak
GenIII
7/12/2004
02:18:47
| RE: R12 or 134
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Oh yeah. Just to throw this out. And this IS a joke for the most part. You COULD always go REALLY cheap and charge your existing system with PROPANE!!!!
It has pretty close pressure/temp properties as R12. It may or may not ever catch fire tho if you get a leak :-)
It's been done. I did it to my friends 1973 Plymouth Duster about 10 or so yrs ago or something. Just playing around. It blew ICE COLD air too. But... it was just to test everything in his car at the time and we later pulled that charge and use R12. This was when R12 first started hicking in price and needed a license.
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