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brakes Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
7/01/2004 15:16:36
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Subject: changing front brakes IP: Logged
Message: I will be changing out my front brakes on my 2000 QC dakota 4X4. I have never done this but would like to save some cash on doing it myself. I am going to replace the pads and rotors. I think the rotors are warped pretty bad. The truck shakes when I brake at certain speeds. The truck has 53,000 miles on it and I don't think the brakes have ever been touched. Bought it used last year. Any tips on how to do this job? Just compress the calipers, change the pads and then pull the rotors in a sense?
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Mr.Sleepy Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
7/01/2004 16:41:09
| RE: changing front brakes IP: Logged
Message: I'm going to give you a short break down on how to do it and the tools you'll need.
Tools:
Brake Cleaner
Brake Grease/AntiSqueel
Brake Pads
Rotors
Metric Allen Wrench Set
Large Flat head Screwdriver
Rubber Mallet/Or Small single Handed sledge
C-Clamp or Caliper Compressor
Impact Socket and Air Wrench
What to do:
Remove the lug nuts from the wheels using socket and air wrench, you could do this with a tire iron but you have to make sure they are TIGHT! Remove Tire.
Using the Allen Wrench (13mm I believe) insert the wrench into the bolts on the back of the caliper. These are standard caliper bolts and unscrew with a little effort. Make sure to clean these and grease them before putting them back. Pay attention to how tight and how deep they are screwed in. They will wiggle out after you have unscrewed them a ways.
Wiggle the Caliper off the rotor. The pads will be touching or close to the rotor so this will be a bit difficult. The caliper should slide off without any hammering.
Once the caliper is removed from the rotor, use a C-Clamp or Caliper compressor to push the inner pad flush with the caliper backing. What you are doing is compressing the cylinder so that you have maximum clearance when you are putting the caliper back on the new rotor with the fatter brand new pads.
Once the Pad is compressed remove it. The inner pad should just pull off. The outer pad will require you to pry it off using the large screwdriver. Pay attention to how it is mounted you will have to duplicate this to ensure a proper fit. The pad should have dimples or bumps that need to be fitted into holes as well as clamps or a combination of both.
Clean out the caliper of dust and rust. Apply the new pads and be sure not to get any grease on the pads. Use latex gloves if you wish to insure cleanliness. Be sure to follow the instructions that came with your pads concering mounting/installing. You may have to use the screwdriver to apply the new outer pad.
Once the new brakes are applied, remove the retaining clip on the rotor. You can bust it off or clip it off because it is designed to never come off without breaking. Remove the rotor from the bolts. You do NOT need to remove the center cap or center bearings to replace the rotor. Be sure to clean your need rotors with laquer thinner or brake cleaner to remove the factory oil from the rotor. Apply new rotor. This will hang loose unless you apply a new retaining clip on the bolt to hold the rotor flush. IF you dont have a clip, then simply hold the rotor flush with one hand while slipping the caliper back onto the mounts. Once mounted the caliper will hold the rotor flush with the bolts.
Align and twist the rotor to make sure it isnt rubbing against the pads. Re-Apply the bolts into the caliper and check for wiggle room and make sure it is tight and wiggle free. Re-Install tires and lug nuts.
This is a very short version of the whole process I have assumed you have done this before on other cars/trucks. This process will take you about 2 hours if you have all the tools and materials handy and you are experienced. For a novice who might have to make trips to the store, set aside at least 4 hours for this. Bolts can seize up, nuts can get lost, tools can be broken, all this can make for a miserable experience. Have someone with you who has done this before around while you attempt this if you havent had any prior brake experience.
Hope this helps.
Have a good weekend.
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tlc361 Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
7/01/2004 18:18:24
| RE: changing front brakes IP: Logged
Message: You might save a few bucks by having your rotors turned (trued) at a local machine shop.
This will give you like new rotors for a while.
I have 76000+ miles on my 2001 Dakota and I have had the rotors turned twice (at $20 each time).
When they reach minimum thickness then replace them.
My 2 cents.
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DSW Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
7/01/2004 20:54:10
| RE: changing front brakes IP: Logged
Message: Are you going to do any towing? If so, save yourself some grief and get a set of drilled or slotted rotors for the front. The Dak front brakes are marginal at best and towing will push them past thier limits, you might have sufficient braking, but the rotors will warp.
I tow alot (2-3 times a month) and was replacing/turning rotors every 6 months (15-20K)until I bought a set of Raybestos Brutestop drilled/slotted rotors. Powerstop or Powerslots are supposed to be good also. Down side is, it's going to cost $200+ for these rotors and pads, but then again, you aren't going to be monkeying with the brakes all the time.
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RadioMan Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
7/02/2004 06:51:10
| RE: changing front brakes IP: Logged
Message: Do all the above, brakes. All advice is good.
I just replaced mine on a 02 4X4 and bought
everything at Advance Auto Parts. I bought the
"Bendix" rotors and ceramic pads. Total cost was
around 175 bux.
The factory rotors are total junk. It's up to you
if you should have them turned or not. Mine warped
after one panic stop pulling a 26' camper and 13k
miles. Now I can see why good old lovable
Chrysler only puts 10k warranty on brakes. They
know they are garbage out of the factory.
Good luck on your brake job! It's easier than you
think..
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Mr.Sleepy Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
7/02/2004 08:03:27
| RE: changing front brakes IP: Logged
Message: One more thing...
If you go to Murrays Auto Parts or Autozone for your pads and rotors, you can buy premium pads and rotors with a lifetime warranty. Its going to cost you about $120 to $150 for all of them but its worth it. When they wear out, simply return the pads and rotors and get brand new ones. Just make sure to keep the receipt (mine are in the owners manual so i dont lose them). I paid for rotors on my first brake job and I've changed them every time I've done brakes. Its so easy to replace the rotor rather than lug them over to a shop to have them turned. You have to go to the auto parts store for pads anyway. Just a thought. Basic rotors are about $25 for most cars these days so turning rotors is a thing of the past. Thank god for cheap chinese metal shops.
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