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WipLash
R/T
3/16/2004
21:10:29
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 Subject: RE: Recall Notices
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Message:
Lemmers,
The service departments have a device especially for what you did. IT'S A NEEDLE! Unfortunately, it doesn't work. When you squirt grease into the boot you only surround the stem of the joint with grease and none of it gets to the ball. It would be the same as you stuffing grease in your front wheel hub instead of packing the wheel bearings.
Therefore, if your squeaking stopped it was coencidence.
You can drill a 1/8" hole in the center of the ball joint and drive a grease zerk in it. It cost about $3.00 to do 4 ball joints. Two of those dollars is for the drill bit. Then when you put grease in your joint you will actually be getting grease to the ball socket of the joint. You only need 2 or 3 pumps to accomplish this. Too many people pump the jopints till they see the boot swell up.
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dakup
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/16/2004
21:44:18
| RE: Recall Notices
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Message:
Add zerk fittings to the sealed ball joints? So you would be creating a whole through the center of the boot?
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Michael
DakotaEnthusiast
3/16/2004
21:53:54
| RE: Recall Notices
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Message:
Wiplash sorry about the slow response but, I had only 20 to 25 thousand miles on my Goodyear RSA's
yes they were rotated. The fronts were cupping on the edges. Just purchased a new set of Kuhmos and was going to get the alignment checked but couldn't get the alignment because there was to much slack in the joints. I went to look and you could literally shake it around in the joint.
So I took it in to the Dealer, a different one than before and they verified the upper and lowers were totally gone. They ordered a new set and will be installed tommorrow. The mechanic even told me about the problems they were having with them. So the extended warranty is covering the replacement. Wiplash didn't realize I had to mention my 20, 25 thousand practically new RSA's were worn the f//k out, for someone to believe that my joints were gone. If I had the truck I would take an mpeg movie of the slack in the joint just so you could see how bad they were.
Thanks,
Michael
PS. The main reason I posted is because the other dealer told me they were fine not even a month and a half ago, theres no way they wore that much that fast.
Later
Z-Tube, R/T Rims, SSB Rear Disc Conversion, Alpine Head-Unit, Infinity Kappa Speakers, SilverStar Headlights, HO Cams & Intake installed.
Got H.O. ?
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Michael
DakotaEnthusiast
3/16/2004
22:02:41
| RE: Recall Notices
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Message:
Or maybe I could go back to the tire dealer if they still have them and take some pictures. See the dealer before said I needed to get new tires, I said I just got those tires it wouldn't be the joints causing them to wear so fast. Then they told me it was my hard driving causing it. Every question I had they had an excuse for. I thought I could trust them, but no they sent me back on the road with bad joints. I new that I should have just done it myself but I figured hey thats what I have the extended warranty for.
Anyway its getting taken care of now. Those MFers at the other dealer better thank heaven that nothing happened to me or my family in that truck.
Later,
Michael
Z-Tube, R/T Rims, SSB Rear Disc Conversion, Alpine Head-Unit, Infinity Kappa Speakers, SilverStar Headlights, HO Cams & Intake installed.
Got H.O. ?
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WipLash
R/T
3/16/2004
22:42:09
| RE: Recall Notices
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Message:
Dakup,
No.no.no....
You drill the hole in the same place that a ball joint that already has grease fittings and that is in the metal cap on top of the ball joint. They make zerks that drive in instead of screwing in. This keeps you from having to tap the threads. You just drill the hole and stick the zerk in the hole. Use a socket slightly larger than the zerk and slide it over the zerk. Then tap it lightly with a hammer and you are done.
Michael,
Well, that explains it. Like I said, the tires won't last no time with the joints flopping around. With that much play you will also notice a lot of feedback through the steering wheel when you hit small bumps and rippels in the pavement. The steering wheel will be constantly jumping back and forth in your hans every time you hit a bump (bump steer). It will destroy your rack and pinion to drive it with bad ball joints.
I guess, like you, everyone has failed to mention their tire wear. That would be my biggest complaint. Thank God I have not had to go through this. I hope I can babby my R/T and keep it in shape. I do plan to add grease zerks to my joints real soon. I used to do it to all my cars made since 1980, especially Fords.
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Michael
DakotaEnthusiast
3/16/2004
23:14:24
| RE: Recall Notices
IP: Logged
Message:
Yes, which is the exact reason its sitting in the shop awaiting ball joints tommorrow.
Later,
Michael
Z-Tube, R/T Rims, SSB Rear Disc Conversion, Alpine Head-Unit, Infinity Kappa Speakers, SilverStar Headlights, HO Cams & Intake installed.
Got H.O. ?
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Jeff
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/17/2004
03:29:53
| RE: Recall Notices
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Message:
had my truck in to the dealer for ext warranty covered replacement of my upper control arm bushings (almost gone, whacked my alignment, ruined my tires). they did the work, sent me on my way. few months later i happen to look under the truck at the lower control arm bushings, they're all nasty hanging off and such. took it back to dealer, they said theres nothing wrong with em, no reason to change em, but would replace them anyway just because i am requesting it (sounds nicer here than the way it happened). while they are working on it, they said the upper ball joint boots were cracked would be replaced. (the lower bushings now require a whole new control arm, new ball joint incl.) the mechanic was an ass and kept asking me why i wanted the bushings replaced when they are fine. told him about the uppers destroying my tires, and he says the lowers dont affect alignment, and my current tires are fine anyway, as long as i rotate them (i rotate/balance religiously at 3k miles).
thats right, the dc mechanic says the lower control arms dont affect alignment. so i get the truck back a few days later, and i see the mechanic-ass wrote at the bottom: "Reccomendations: Rotate tires. Tires cupped."
so i can assume from this one of two things:
1) he lied about the lowers not affecting alignment.
2) theres a problem with my shocks that caused the cupping and they failed to warn me my shocks are going bad and reccomend to replace them.
i say, hello Pep Boys - you're my new service dept. (ie, screw the dealer's service dept)
ranting-jeff
'99 3.9 cc 57k mi
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WipLash
R/T
3/17/2004
08:23:04
| RE: Recall Notices
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Message:
Typical dealership. I have yet to go to any dealership that didn't respond this way. I've been to nearly every Ford and Dodge dealership in a 150 mile radius and they all are the same. If one of the Big 3 ever took control of their dealerships and made them actually SERVICE their customers they would put the other 2 (now 3 with Toyota) out of business. Maybe Toyota is doing this. I wouldn't know. My mom lives in Phoenix, Arizona and she can't stand the Toyota dealers there. She is a Toyota truck loyalist. She gets the same BS from the Toyota dealers as we do the Dodge dealers.
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JES
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/17/2004
08:30:02
| RE: Recall Notices
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Message:
Wip -- wouldn't drilling holes in the balljoint as you described put a bunch of metal shavings, dust, and contaminants in the joint, causing it to fail prematurely?
Eric -- http://photos.yahoo.com/jes_96
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WipLash
R/T
3/17/2004
13:28:18
| RE: Recall Notices
IP: Logged
Message:
You don't drill all the way through to the center of the joint. You only drill deep enough to break through at the tip of the bit. On the lower ball joint it's real easy because your up-side-down and all the chips will be falling in your face instead of inside the joint. It helps if you take a permanent magnet and magnetize the bit before drilling. This will make all the metal shards stick to the bit. It is likely you will get one or two chips in the upper joints, but that is much better than the alternative of having no grease in there.
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JES
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
3/17/2004
15:20:26
| RE: Recall Notices
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Message:
Wip -- Sounds a little shady to me. Wouldn't take much in the way of contaminants to quickly wear away the plastic wear element that may exist in the joint (or even the metal internals). This 'fix' could very easily destroy a balljoint that could have otherwise lasted quite a while. I think I'll just wait til it goes (if the warranty has already run out), then get some 'Problem Solvers' in there. Good idea on paper, but I just have some misgivings about it's real world effectiveness.
Eric -- http://photos.yahoo.com/jes_96
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Michael
DakotaEnthusiast
3/17/2004
18:31:27
| RE: Recall Notices
IP: Logged
Message:
Well got the new joints in today. And the new ones the head looks somewhat larger than the older ones and the boots are designed differently. If I get some time I'll take some pics and post them. The old ones got tossed but I'll try to get the new ones.
Later,
Michael
Z-Tube, R/T Rims, SSB Rear Disc Conversion, Alpine Head-Unit, Infinity Kappa Speakers, SilverStar Headlights, HO Cams & Intake installed.
Got H.O. ?
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WipLash
R/T
3/17/2004
21:35:02
| RE: Recall Notices
IP: Logged
Message:
JES,
It's really quite effective. Even if a metal shaving gets in there, it won't get to the socket of the balljoint because there is to tight of tollerance between the ball of the stud and the socket in the joint. I've been doing it for years with no problem. I still have a VW bug I use in the woods. I go across creeks and ditches regularly. The cheap ball joints I buy for $10.00 a piece have no grease fittings. I can't make it through 1 deer season without a ball joint failing if I don't install grease zerks. With grease zerks I get 4 deer seasons on a set. The moisture that collects inside the joint is much more detrimental than a metal shaving. I can do it without getting any metal shavings in the joint.
I don't like to give away all my secrets, but here it goes. Do not drill the hole all the way through. Just when the tip of the bit starts to break through stop drilling. Take a very small center punch and sharpen it very sharp. Put the punch in the hole and hit it with a hammer. This will puncher a hole into the joint without getting any contaminants inside.
You have nothing to loose. You are going to have to replace the joint regardless. A greased joint with a metal shaving or 2 will outlast a dried out rusted joint that is free of debri.
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