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Geoff
GenIII
 
6/18/2003
21:15:04
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 Subject: Brake Job Question
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Message:
Front Rotors warped
Can someone plese give me the details on the steps to replace the front rotors and pads.
Basic procedure
Tools needed
will i have to mess with fluid/bleeding
I have only changed the pads on a motorcycle took 10 seconds
Geoff
2000 3.9L RC Sport. Flame Red. 5-speed, 3.55, Airaid, Vortex Muffler, F&B 48mm TB, 180 T-Stat, Autolite 3923s, IAT Adjuster, Clear Corners, SS Grill Insert, JBA Plug Wires, Underdrive Crank Pulley. Hurst Shifter, Removed Clutch Fan, Sony CDX-MP450X MP3, JBA Headers
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Geoff
GenIII
6/18/2003
21:17:35
| RE: Brake Job Question
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Message:
also what are decent replacement parts
i can't afford Powerslots or cross drilled rotors
and where to buy them
Nearby: Pep Boys, NAPA, Advance, Autozone, Western Auto
Geoff
2000 3.9L RC Sport. Flame Red. 5-speed, 3.55, Airaid, Vortex Muffler, F&B 48mm TB, 180 T-Stat, Autolite 3923s, IAT Adjuster, Clear Corners, SS Grill Insert, JBA Plug Wires, Underdrive Crank Pulley. Hurst Shifter, Removed Clutch Fan, Sony CDX-MP450X MP3, JBA Headers
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chesire
Dodge Dakota
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6/19/2003
08:41:02
| RE: Brake Job Question
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Message:
i can only tell ya this, the powerslots etc are gonna actually be a better deal and probably cheaper than a plain replacement rotor from napa, pepboys, etc, summit sell them for like 97 bucks a rotor, not to bad i think.......
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DakotaDriver
Dodge Dakota
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6/19/2003
10:31:43
| RE: Brake Job Question
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Message:
Don't short change yourself by using factory or cheaper parts for your brakes. Spend the dough and go with the upgraded rotors and pads.
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IntenseDakota
Dodge Dakota
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6/19/2003
10:32:22
| RE: Brake Job Question
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Message:
Pep-Boys, Rabestos rotors are like $70 and I believe they have a lifetime warranty.
Once you pull your tire off, it is realy easy to change the rotor on any dodge.
My recomendation is to pick up of the hayes or chilton manuals. They are well worth the 15-20 bucks.
www.intense-dakota.com
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Timberwolf
GenIII
6/19/2003
17:58:48
| RE: Brake Job Question
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Message:
I wouldn't think that little tiny plastic rotors would cost all that much. I bet it's a bitch getting tools to work on it though.
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Timberwolf
GenIII
6/19/2003
18:03:18
| RE: Brake Job Question
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Actually, the only tools you need are a lug wrench, hex wrench (can't remember size), and a caliper spreader. You never unhook the lines, so there is no need to bleed the system, so no mess.
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Daksmack
Dodge Dakota
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6/19/2003
19:15:21
| RE: Brake Job Question
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Message:
Tools needed after removing the tire:
Flat screwdriver
heavy hammer
plyers
medium to large crescent wrench-12" will be fine
2 new cotter pins (if needed, prob not)
wrench to remove calipers (not sure the size)
2x4 12" long or so
caliper spreader (or big ass channel locks)
buncha rags
Start by removing the caliper (2 bolts) and hang out of your way with wire. Then remove the bearing cap on the hub with the screwdriver and hammer (careful not to dent it). Under it you will see a cotter pin over a castle nut type nut retainer. Remove it with plyers and then the nut with the crescent wrench (notice that it doesnt have to be extreamly tight). The rotor will come off now.
If you dont replace the bearings, you can remove the old ones by slightly tappin on the inside of the outter bearings with the spindel. After they come out dont remove the rotor. Instead put the nut back on slightly so you can pull the rotor and slightly tap the inside of the inner bearing againts the nut. After its off just remove the nut again.
When installing rotors it is important to NOT get any grease on the surface the pads come in contact with.
Install the bearings on the new rotors by tapping them in with a hammer using a 2x4 between the hammer and bearing to keep from damaging them with the hammer. Then install the rotors in reverse order. Very simple upgrade.
Im sure you can figure out the pad replacement. One tip tho, remove the master cylinder cap before compressing the calipers. The fluid will flow back to the master cylinder easier. If you havent done it before, be advised the calipers take alot of force to compress. Ive use big channel locks, C clamps, and desperate times called for two screwdrivers (that was tough).
After everything is back together, start the truck and press the brake pedal a couple of times before driving. This will seat the caliper pistons against the pads, and your foot wont go to the floor at the first stop light.
Hope this helps.
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Geoff
GenIII
6/20/2003
03:18:42
| RE: Brake Job Question
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Message:
Thanks guys
Timberwolf, The paint job was the hardest thing took forever to find such a small sprayer and compressor LOL
Geoff
2000 3.9L RC Sport. Flame Red. 5-speed, 3.55, Airaid, Vortex Muffler, F&B 48mm TB, 180 T-Stat, Autolite 3923s, IAT Adjuster, Clear Corners, SS Grill Insert, JBA Plug Wires, Underdrive Crank Pulley. Hurst Shifter, Removed Clutch Fan, Sony CDX-MP450X MP3, JBA Headers
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rtdkota
R/T
6/20/2003
09:40:08
| RE: Brake Job Question
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Message:
If money is tight--- go to Autozone. Rotors are $39.95 a piece... are made in Canada, and are the exact same ones your stockers are.
Throw on some Raybestos pads for ~$36-- and 1 hour of your time--- you'll be golden.
I've done this a couple times when I didn't have the $$$ for the powerslots... and they lasted just as long as my stockers.
Sam
www.socaldakota.com
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mtlcafan79
GenIII
6/20/2003
11:16:56
| RE: Brake Job Question
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Message:
http://www.fast4x4.net/brake.htm
Step by step pictorial on how to change our brakes.
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Dan
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
6/08/2004
15:18:47
| RE: Brake Job Question
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Message:
Great Link mtlcafan79 !!!
The Haynes repair manual u can get at the auto parts store is also very good describing how to do the brakes. It has lots of pictures and good detail.
Spending the extra few dollars for good pads and rotors is well worth it. The factory pads discintigrated and made deep ruts in the rotors after 40k miles... had to scrap the rotors and start fresh.
I forgot what brand pads and rotors I replaced them with (think it may have been bendix), but they were the best ones they had (non-slotted). Now the truck has a bit over 100,000 miles. The pads still have meat and the rotors are still smooth and are not warped. Also, keeping the front lugs torqued correctly helps keep the rotors from warping.
I just replaced the rear drums / shoes at 95,000. If you plan on keeping your truck for awhile, it's worth the few extra bucks for better pads/rotors/shoes/drums, etc.
1997 dakota 4x4 extended cab
318 v8
dual cat-back flowmaster exhaust
K&N Filter
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Mr.Sleepy
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
6/08/2004
17:10:07
| RE: Brake Job Question
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Message:
I'm reading a lot of posts that sound like these people havent changed brakes before so without being to offensive to them here it goes.
Tools -
Hex Wrench/Allen Wrench set, 13 MM, long thick handle if you can manage it. Used to remove Caliper bolts (2). Upper and lowers will wiggle out once unscrewed.
Flat blade screw driver, large. To remove brake clamps that attach to caliper.
Brake Cleaner
Brake Grease
rubber gloves, to handle rotor after cleaned to make sure no oil gets on it.
Flat nose pliers - to remove the clip that holds the rotor to the bolts.
Remove the tire, impact wrench and sockets are a must if you are going to do this. Loosen the caliper bolts located on the back of the caliper. Have a bucket or box to set the caliper on, do not let it dangle it will strain the brake line. Use a C Clamp or Caliper space to push the brake pads flush against the caliper, also called compressing the cylinder. Do this slowly to avoid damaging lines. You mays spill over with fluid if you added more as your brakes wore down. Apply new pads. Makes sure they are seated properly. Remove clip on rotor and knock rotor off with rubber mallet or large single handed sledge. Rotor maybe rusted to the axle so be persistant. You do not need to remove the bearings or the bearing cap! If you wish to re-pack your bearings you can if you wish but it is not necessary until you get 90k miles. Clean the factory oil off rotors and apply them with gloves. Wipe front and back of rotor down and soak in cleaner. Using one hand press the rotor flush against the axle and slip the caliper back over. Line up the holes and put the cleaned and regreased caliper bolts back into place. Tighten down, check for rubbing (aka crooked parts or mis-alligned pads). Put tire back on.
This is the clift note version and there are little things to do along the way in the way of cleaning and parts, but basically that is it. Anyone can do front brakes on a dakota, the rears are a little more tricky if they are drums.
Don't skimp on pads or rotors, opt for the lifetime rotors and bosch pads, and keep that receipt, you can turn your pads back in and rotors in another 50k miles for freebies.
If your new to your daks brakes, expect to spend a hour on each wheel. Proper prep work and available tools will cut 15 minutes off this prediction.
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jb
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
6/09/2004
09:01:05
| RE: Brake Job Question
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Message:
nicley done Mr. sleepy
I just want to add a couple of things. On my 02 dak the calipers were held in by a t45 torx head bolt, so a hex may not do the job. the other thing is in regards to grease. The areas where the pads slide on and also where the touch the caliper should be greased. This helps the pads move so they wear evenly and the areas where they touch the caliper will help prevent squeaks.
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Mr.Sleepy
Dodge Dakota
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6/09/2004
09:18:08
| RE: Brake Job Question
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Message:
Thats odd, I have a 02 as well, and mine were Hex/Allen Wrench head. When I think of Torx I think of the bolt that holds the seat belt against the sidewall adjuster. We on the same ship here? Just curious.
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intensedakota
Dodge Dakota
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6/09/2004
09:24:41
|  RE: Brake Job Question
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ok, real simple here, the torx nuts have a star shape in the them (pointy corners) the hex/allen bolts do not..
www.intense-dakota.com
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jb
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
6/09/2004
22:08:03
| RE: Brake Job Question
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Message:
sleepy, thats the type, just like the seatbelt bolts and as intensedakota described. Mine is a 4x4. is yours? i dont know it that makes a difference over a 2wd.
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GeoDak
Dodge Dakota
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6/09/2004
22:23:06
|  RE: Brake Job Question
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Message:
Sounds like you've already gotten the details but I wanna add one more "DON'T BUY CHEAP BRAKES" comment. Cough up the extra few bucks for a good set of upgraded rotors and a good set of pads.
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