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Incubus2432
Dodge Dakota
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5/23/2001
01:21:39

Subject: Thunderform Related....Kinda
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I was considering the Thunderform group buy....it is a good deal BUT I still think it is a ripoff for a plastic tray. So I decided to do some experimenting. I cut the compartment sections from my existing tray, leaving the outer "frame" portion (and the cupholders). Then I took two pieces of sheet steel (1/16th" thick 11 1/2"x 13"), cut 2-10" speaker holes and temporarily attached them to the frame. Once I powered them up, I was quite impressed.....I've heard less than satisfactory opinions on the quality of bass by the thunderforms (could be a poor quality amp problem) but the pieced together setup I have is great.
The setup is.....the factory 2001 cd headunit (from the so-called "eight speaker" Infinity system), 4-6.5" Infinity Reference 652i ($99 per pair), factory tweeters (for now), 2-10" JBL GT subs (older style), 2 50x4 Alpine V12 amps (one for the mains and one bridged in stereo at 125 watts for the subs) mounted under the front seats with no clearance problems. The wiring from the factory amp took me a little trial and error to get sorted out, but it wasn't too bad. Right now I just have the steel plate mounted (with Dynamat) subs duct taped to the under the seat frame but I will eventually silicone and screw the fiasco together than carpet it. It should look perfect. From outside the truck, everything looks factory...the back seats tilt up about one inch or so. There is still room for the jack kit and a few ratchet tie downs...the jack is wrapped in a large beach towel which keeps it secure and the towel also fills up extra space and has a slight dampening effect.
The steel could be substituted for plywood (and maybe should be)...I only used the steel because most of my woodworking tools are loaned out at the moment.
I just posted this because this alternative saved me $200 and I thought someone else may be interested . The project took me a total of about 10hrs including the new main speaker installation, all of the wiring and building the sub unit. By the way, I listen to heavy music (Pantera/Slayer/Motorhead/Metallica/Zombie/Tool) and the bass clarity and power are quite adequate....it sounds great.
If anyone is interested I can take some digital pics and email them.....just no comment on the duct tape please....I have to order the carpet still.

Brian Crisman
01 CC 4x4 Sport 4.7 Auto 3.55LSD Silver



incubus2432
Dodge Dakota
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5/23/2001
01:26:05

RE: Thunderform Related....Kinda
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In the above post, I said the subs were getting 125 watts.....that is EACH sub is getting 125 watts. Power is everything for clear/strong bass. Not a big deal, but I don't think 125 for a pair of subs is adequate.

Brian Crisman



Steve Reill
Dodge Dakota


5/23/2001
14:05:05

RE: Thunderform Related....Kinda
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I did something similar and I wasnt too satisfied, but I only used the driver side opening and I didnt cut anything...I also only went with one 8" jbl....I tried it with 2 8" and also with 1 10"...for the airspace available, the 1 8" sounded the best. Im running 200 watss to the sub..all in all, its better...not great, but better...



second2n0ne
Dodge Dakota
 Email

10/24/2001
16:19:00

RE: Thunderform Related....Kinda
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I realize this is an old posting that I am replying to but for anyone interested in adding subs, please read on. The methods posted by Incubus (Brian) and Steve are not a good alternative to purching a prefab box or having one custom built. Subs require a certain about of sealed/ported space behind it to function properly. Check the specs on any good sub and you will find that most 10" subs require about 2.0 cubic ft of space and varies if the sub is in a sealed, ported, or bandpass configuration. Although MTX designs their T-Forms from plastic, the box is actually acoustically sound. If you compare the specs of the subs that come with the "loaded" T-form and the enclosure specs, they match perfectly. I'm not knocking anyone's taste in "good" sound however, using metal is the worst resonator a sub box could be designed with. If designed properly, a sub enclosure is way more efficient (more sound, less amp) than a impropely designed enclosure requiring twice the amperage. This is also why MTX includes only a 100watt amp with there "loaded" version. Spend the bucks and save yourself 10hrs and spend those saved hours with the kids or family!



R/Truck
Dodge Dakota
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10/24/2001
16:39:38

RE: Thunderform Related....Kinda
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10" Subs require .65 - 1 cubic feet of airspace per sub. Even ported they only require a little more space. 2 cubic feet? What kind of subs are you looking at?

I have the thunderform enclosure and it is the best way to go. Even the guys at the stereo installation shop said that they could not build a custom box for less then the thunderform.

Go to Ebay, they are selling them new for real cheap.





DarkFury
Dodge Dakota
 Email

10/24/2001
16:45:07

RE: Thunderform Related....Kinda
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I have to agree... for a "specialty application" you just can't beat the Thunderform for the space it saves and still have the functionality of the back seat.

I thought this one was a "no brainer" when I first saw them. You can try to build it yourself, but honestly I don't think it will outperform the T-form.



Anthony
Dodge Dakota


10/24/2001
18:50:33

RE: Thunderform Related....Kinda
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I built my own Thunderform clone,
you can see it at sound domain or at my site.

www.geocities.com/intense79/
Anthony





second2n0ne
Dodge Dakota
 Email

10/24/2001
21:36:55

RE: Thunderform Related....Kinda
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As pointed out by R/Truck, sub requirements vary. The point is that when built to spec, an enclosure will save you time and money when you shop for an amp. Even "free air" subs benefit from some type of enclosure. eBay does in fact have great prices on the MTX T-Forms - $300 new and shipped. Local shops in SoCal can build similar unloaded enclosures for around $250.
Mahalo,
Second2n0ne



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