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Tom from KTP
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
2/04/2003
09:56:09
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 Subject: Converting from R12 to 134A
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I have a 1992 Dakota Club Cab with the 5.2L V-8. Recently the A/C stopped working. Typical symptom - blower blow warm air, compressor does not engage. I have not gone as far as jumping the LP switch and putting a set of gauges on it yet, but I am highly suspicious that the compressor seal has finally given up. The compressor has been making some conspicious noises for quite some time now. My question - if I need to replace the compressor anyway, wouldn't this be a good time to convert to 134A? What is involved to make the switch? Seems like I recall the remanufactured compressors being able to run with either R12 or 134A - do I need to do anything else besides evacuating the system (I have my own vacuum pump), like changing expansion valves? Does anyone make a kit for this, and if so, where can I get them?
Also, if indeed my compressor has puked, I am assuming that I will need to flush the system to remove contaminants from its demise. How is this accomplished? Will I need special equipment to do this?
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SuperBee
Dodge Dakota
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2/04/2003
10:10:55
|  RE: Converting from R12 to 134A
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well on my old Dynasty the compressor would not engage, and made funny noises
so i ot one of those kits from JC whitney to change and recharge the fuild
then it worked, try that first
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Lab Rat
GenIII
2/04/2003
13:02:20
| RE: Converting from R12 to 134A
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Tom,
1) sounds like loss of charge.
2) checks the hoses at the crimps. if swollen and/or oily they're leaking.
3) compressor may be noisy due to low charge. they don't like to run close or in a vacuum.
5) if you buy a retrofit kit, get one with PAG oil. sanden doesn't recommend ester.
6) look inside the hose fittings and compressor ports. turn the comp by hand to check for extreme roughness or seizure. if all checks out ok you don't need to flush.
7) to retrofit you need to change the drier and hoses if they're leaking. get the drier from aftermarket, dealer costs too much.
8) best source for oil might be dealer. any dak from 95-2000 uses the same oil, sp-20 PAG.
9) shaft seal on compressor, if not seized, should be changed as well as all o-rings and gaskets. these are cheap parts, best to change than risk leaks.
10) charge with 10% less r-134a than factory charge. not knowing your climate, you might need a pusher fan to help keep discharge pressure down.
Hope this helps.
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Tom from KTP
Dodge Dakota
JOIN HERE
2/04/2003
13:15:06
| RE: Converting from R12 to 134A
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Message:
Thanks for the info, LabRat!
Considering that this truck has over 160K on it, and I might need to upgrade to a full size truck in the future, would it be cost-effective to switch to the 134A? If I just find a leak somewhere and the compressor checks out OK, about how much should I expect to spend converting to the 134A?
Thanks for the help!
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Lab Rat
GenIII
2/04/2003
14:38:07
| RE: Converting from R12 to 134A
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Might not be cost effective, depends on what has to be replaced and the costs can vary greatly depending on what the aftrmkt has vs. what has to come from a dealer.
Some approximate numbers:
Compressor: 200-350
TXV: 20-25
Drier: 20-75
Seals & o-rings: 25
Oil: 20
Hose assys: 100-150 each
You can easily spend 700-800 just for parts or you might get off pretty cheap. If the compressor and hoses are OK and you plan to keep it a while, I'd do it. It's really up to you how much you want to spend.
LR
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