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kevster Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
1/28/2003 22:25:39
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Subject: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: I will be replacing the lwr and uppers on my 2000 4x2 Dak soon as I await there arrival by UPS. So anyone have any tips for me, I have done this type of work befor on other vehicles just wanted some tips that I may not know about, I bought me a nice impact or rivet gun with the impact chisels, I have a grinder with cut wheel, I hear the rivets are a real pain in the ass.
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Timberwolf GenIII
1/28/2003 23:03:24
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: Kevster. Just did it last weekend. My lowers are pressed in, but the uppers should be the same. You really don't need air chisels, grinders or anything else like that. I have all that stuff too, but found the quickest & the easiest way is as follows:
1. Take a center punch and hit it in the center of each rivet. Take care to line it up exactly in the center.
2. Use a 5/16 or 3/8 bit to drill down until you are level with where the ball joint plate meets the control arm. The rivets are pretty soft, so they are easy to drill and even easier to chisel.
3. Take a cold chisel and hit the rivet(from the side obviously). I only had to hit them 2 to 3 times each and they just popped off.
4. If you have anti-lock brakes be careful hooking it back up. I didn't get the feed wire in the clip tight enough and cut it and I had to take it apart again to solder it. I'm not sure this will even be an issue on a 2wd, but just be careful with it. One last thing, use your jack to push up on the whole assembly to guide the new ball joint pin into the steering knuckle. Other than that, everything is pretty straight forward. If you have any more questions, let me know.
I heard nothing but how hard it was to remove the rivets, but it was a very pleasant surprise that it was alot easier than I expected.
"I'd rather be fishing"
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kevster Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
1/29/2003 18:28:38
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: Thanx for the reply..
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chris Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
1/29/2003 22:43:04
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: on my 93 the lowers are pressed but the uppers are threaded,and require a big ass socket i had to get from snap-on to get them out in conjuction to a 3/4 drive impact.
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Tad_W Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
1/29/2003 23:03:25
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: I have a 2000 4x4 quad cab sport. Can you please tell me the manufacturer and part number of the balljoints you are using??? Thanks
Tad Williams
tadwms@gbis.com
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Timberwolf GenIII
1/30/2003 09:16:43
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: I used Moog, but have heard the TRW's are nice too. Part numbers are upper - 7242 & lower - 7267 for 4X4. I'm not 100% sure on those numbers, but I'm pretty sure. Rockauto & autoparts-site.com both have them for the same price @ about $40 apiece and they can tell you if the numbers are correct. Autozone will loan you a press for free. you just have to leave a $100 deposit until you bring it back. The lowers are IMPOSSIBLE to do without it. But a breeze with it. I don't have pictures on the web, but I can email them to you if you want.
"I'd rather be fishing"
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Timberwolf GenIII
1/30/2003 09:18:52
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: Oh, Tad I forgot to mention that they will not have them listed for a 2000, so you have to order them for a 1999. They are the same.
"I'd rather be fishing"
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rivermaniac Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
1/30/2003 09:45:07
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: what are they for the 2wd and will it be the same for 2001 2wd ????????
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Tad_W Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
1/30/2003 11:38:47
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: Yes, please email me pictures of your ball joint install. I am getting tired of the clucking and don't have the cash to pay a shop to do it. Can you give me more information about the ball joint press and how it is used on the lower balljoints. Thanks
Tad Williams
tadwms@gbis.com
SChurz, NV
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Timberwolf GenIII
1/30/2003 14:50:23
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: river - I don't know the numbers for the lowers on the 2wd, but I think they are riveted on like the uppers. Anyone you order them from should be able to tell you the correct numbers. Sorry I can't give you better info. Maybe there's a 2wd guy out there that knows.
Tad - You have mail.
"I'd rather be fishing"
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kevster Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
1/30/2003 18:22:47
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: moog upper# for 2wd and 4x is k7242 lwr on 4x2 is #k7241 and lwr for 4x4 is #k7267 order for a 99 model, these are the same.
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ZZ Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
1/31/2003 21:14:28
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: Are you sure the ball joints for a 2000 are exactly the same as those for a 1999?
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Timberwolf GenIII
2/01/2003 16:11:47
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: YEP!
"I'd rather be fishing"
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Jason Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
2/01/2003 17:35:45
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: Did mine in about 2 hours using air tools. Mine we're 100K miles old. Took me more than a hammer and chisel. Good luck
Here are some pics
http://members.cox.net/jgilbert01/
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kevster Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
2/01/2003 20:00:37
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: I have finished the removal, took me 2.5 hrs. and a air hammer,air drill and chisel, Cobalt drills 5 of them,and some patience, damn my back is sore, now I have to wait for my new ball joints to arrive any day now, I have a question, I removed my drop springs also, and I noticed the insulator pad on top of the spring is rubber and worn through on one area, I believe this is what causes my squeeks, So DOES ANYBODY KNOW where I can get new insulator pads but made of Polyurethane..? Thanx.
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chris Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
2/01/2003 20:48:36
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: OFF ROAD GENERAL STORE
23061 La Cadena Laguna Hills, CA 92653
( 949 ) 770-9300
Mon - Fri 9-6 & Sat. ( Call )
http://www.offroadgs.com
might help ,
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jackster Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/30/2003 18:39:56
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: I have a couple of questions regarding the replacement of the lower ball joint on a 98 Dakota 4x4, 318 V8.
Does the lower "A" arm have to be removed or can it be swung down far enough to replace the joint.
Also does the axle have to be removed for room to get the joint up and out of the cup?
Will I need an alignment afterwards?
Thanks for any info.
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AHersh GenIII
4/30/2003 22:45:49
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: Jackster,
I removed the front drive axles when doing the ball joints. Being that you have to press the lower out, I am almost positive it has to be done.
The top is a lot quicker than the bottom, as the spindle has to be moved out of the way for the bottom.
There are good directions in the box for the MOOG replacements. I really didn't expect any directions, so it took me a while before I noticed them. I originally thought it was just a warantee.
Good luck.
1997 CC 4X4, 5.2L Manual DynoMax UltraFlow Muffler, K&N Drop-in, MOOG Ball Joints, Auotolite 3923's 180 t-stat, JET Stage II, Mobil 1 in engine & all gear boxes, Rhino Lining
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Jackster Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/01/2003 16:11:06
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: Thanks for the reply.
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Joe McKenna Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/10/2003 21:01:05
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: Where can I get these MOOG ball joints at? I have never herd of them. I will be tring to replace upper and lower joints on my 97 4X4 318 Dakota. I have never done anything like this before so does anyone have any spep by step directions and pictures? thanks in advance.
Joe McKenna
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02Sport+ Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/11/2003 00:01:10
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: I hear tell that the 4x4 upper joints may be replaced by removing the rivets, but the lowers are pressed in and are a different matter. Try rockauto.com for the Moog joints.
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Bob Wojciecho Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/11/2003 22:25:44
| RE: Ball joint replacement IP: Logged
Message: OK, I got the lower ball joints and press but no instructions. It looks like the old one is pressed out the bottom but there appears to be some kind of cover plate on the top, is this an illusion?
BTW, I just removed the stearing knuckle by removing the tie rod end once all the ball joints were broken free. now I can push the drive shaft out of the way with ease.
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