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Joe Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
12/17/2004 02:27:42
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Subject: just installed ball joints and tie rod IP: Logged
Message: For those contemplating installing their own b-joints, I just did both my uppers and tie rods and it was pretty easy. the moog directions tell you to unbolt the a-arm which will definately make you get an alignment, but its not necessary to unbolt them. the rivets drill out easier than i anticipated and took about 1/2 hour a side. start with an 1/8th bit and go down about 1/4 inch then change bits to 1/2 inch- it popped right off with a couple hits with a chisle. the only problems i had (first time doing this) was trying to get the boot on the joint which i finally got on with a large socket and pressed it over. the second problem was trying to get the upper arm and joint back into the steering knuckle, since the lower assembly kept falling down and jacking it up was just raising the whole truck. i fixed this by getting a c-clamp and pulling the upper arm into the steering knuckle and left just enough room to put the nut on. really this is too easy and im not waiting for months to have the dealership take my vehicle for the day. even if they dont reimburse the expense i have good parts and satisfaction that i did it myself. going to get it aligned tomarrow even though it drives and tracks straight.
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Bob L Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
12/17/2004 15:28:38
| RE: just installed ball joints and tie rod IP: Logged
Message: Is your's a 4X4 or 2WD?
I own the 2000 Factory Service Manual & (I think)they have you grind the heads off and knock the rivet out with a center punch.
The drill-out method seems easier and less "chaotic". Thanks for the tip.
My 2WD Quad Cab sounds like the joints are ready to come apart, I'd rather do it right than have the dealer install the same crap.
This is my last DC vehicle of any design.
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Joe Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
12/18/2004 17:12:20
| RE: just installed ball joints and tie rod IP: Logged
Message: It is a 4wd, and drilling is much easier. I have a grinder but couldnt see getting much control as i would by drilling. I have some good quality bits which probably helped. the old joint was about to come apart. The wheel alignment was right on and the computerized printout showed no changes in caster/camber from factory specs.
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