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Torque
Dodge Dakota
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11/10/2003
10:34:46
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 Subject: RE: Rack and Pinion
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The 2002+ Ram (both 4x2 and 4x4) does have rack and pinion steering. The only 2002 Ram that doesn't have R&P is the 4x4 HD trucks.
My reply is a little late but I think Dodge should get you a rental, considering the distance and such. Call the 800 number on those little emergency cards that came in your owners manual and complain.
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DakotaMike
Dodge Dakota
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12/02/2004
23:47:48
| RE: Rack and Pinion
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I have a 2001 QC 4.7L 4x4.with 45,000 miles and I started having the clunking noise when turning and over bumps. I took it to 3 different garages and to the dealer. I had the rack & pinion bushings replaced. It stopped the noise for about 3 days, then started back and continued to get worse. I took it back and they said the rack was bad. I bought a new rack and installed it myself with another set of new bushings, then had an alignment. The noise is now gone but now i have a new problem with the truck trying to turn back and forth on its own while driving. If your going around a curve, it feels as if the tires or rack are moving back and forth and you can feel it in the steering wheel. btw all ball joints and tie-rod ends are good. can anyone help. I am getting so sick of these steering problems. ty
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dan
Dodge Dakota
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3/19/2005
03:00:54
| RE: Rack and Pinion
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I have a 2000 dodge dakota and after the recall came out for the ball joints i had them replaced now there is a clunking sound everytime i turn and i can feel it in the steering wheel i brought it back to the dealer and now they say it is the intermidate steering shaft. What the hell is going on with these trucks
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Steve E
Dodge Dakota
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3/26/2005
21:49:34
| RE: Rack and Pinion
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Dan,
I have the same problem. I have a 2001 QC 4.7L. Your dealer is full of it. I had bushings replaced 3 times, stabilizer and sway bars replaced twice, intermediate shaft and multiple linkages replaced, as well as new ball joints. Guess what? That clunking is still there. I had my truck back to the dealer seven freakin times. I've had enough.
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Dan
Dodge Dakota
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3/27/2005
12:33:34
| RE: Rack and Pinion
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Steve e
go to this website www.v8performance.com and then click on tips and tricks then go to popping sound
there is a article in there that talks about a nut that could be loose inside the steering coloumn and it tells you how to fix it you self instead of going back to the dealer and getting the shaft
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John K
Dodge Dakota
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5/04/2005
09:32:55
| RE: Rack and Pinion
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If the weather holds out, I'll be replacing the rack and lower steering coupler (intermediate shaft) this weekend. The procedure *looks* straightforward and is described fairly easily in the Dodge factory manual. The pump also has to be flushed with fresh steering fluid (not ATF!) The rack lasted about 60k miles. The steering shaft has a bad U-joint, was felt at about 20k miles but not diagnosed until 70k!
The most common sign of a shot rack is leakage from one or both boots around tie rod ends. This is indicative of internal wear and not easily repairable. Most mechanics will replace the entire rack, with OEM, reman or used unit. From what I gather, worn R&Ps are not uncommon, but they can be a pain to replace on certain vehicles.
The steering coupler has two U-joints and a rag joint on a telescoping shaft. The lower U-joint appears to have spit out one needle bearing set at some point. The symptom is about one inch of rotational 'slop' in the steering wheel. This shaft costs $300 at the dealer, so I elected to buy one for $165 at the local JY. After blasting off the heavy rust I appear to have a serviceable part that should last at least a year. BTW, the shaft for 2000 4x4 costs $300, while the same shaft for 2001 and newer is $129, go figure.
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John K
Dodge Dakota
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5/07/2005
19:43:11
| RE: Rack and Pinion
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OK ...job done. Took me about 5 hours. Had to run out and buy an 18mm combination wrench to remove the hydraulic lines to the R&P, an 18mm flare wrench would be much better.
You also need a good tie rod puller, OTC and Old Forge make good ones, about $50-$90. I managed to borrow one from the local 'Parts-Source' auto parts store for free. You need the one with two hinged fingers, looks kinda like a gear puller. Put the fingers around the tie rod knuckle, tighten down the jack screw and give it a fair whack with a hammer square on the screw head ...should pop right out (don't forget to remove the tie rod nuts first!) A pitman arm puller and the other styles of pullers are too short and useless. A pickle fork might also work, I don't know.
When doing this job, make sure you tie the steering wheel with a bungee so that it does not rotate while disconnected, else you will ruin the clock spring and air bag will not work.
The rack itself came out quite easily: remove coupler shaft and hydraulic lines, remove two large nuts and bolts holding it to the cross member, slide unit towards passenger side, drop other end and slide out towards driver side. Installation is almost as easy, don't forget to flush the steering pump. The toe-in I managed by measuring the old unit, and approximating on the new ...seems to track pretty good, but I'll be having it adjusted at a shop in a few days.
I went to the public library and photocopied the procedures from a mopar manual, it's only a couple of pages and lists all the relevent torques. There are also a few websites with general procedures for replacing your R&P and flushing/removing the air from the hydraulic system afterwards, found them very useful.
Also note that if you have a 4.7L you need a different power steering fluid than most other mopar vehicles, check your owner's manual for the right PN ...don't use ATF.
There you have it, quick and dirty!
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