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AustinL911
Dodge Dakota
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6/13/2002
00:49:52

Subject: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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Hey guys....I am wanting to get a new CC Black R/T in the future and am wanting to put 3 kicker L5 15's in a custom(made by me) bandpass box. I was wanting a plexiglass front with a neon/strobe inside for a neat effect. My questions are
1. Bandpass boxes are 2 chambers, correct? consisting of 3 walls in a row....1st wall being the one that holds the plexiglass.....2nd being the one that holds the subs.....3rd being the back wall.....correct?
2.Is it practical to make a completly SEALED bandpass box...i.e. no ports? I have seen designs for bandpass boxes and they show to put a port or two in the chamber between the subs and the glass. Do these have to be here? will it sound like crap without them?
3. If I have to have ports....How many do I need? How big?Where do I put them?
Sorry for all the questions but I know nothing about boxes.



Neil
Dodge Dakota
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6/13/2002
02:47:22

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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Yes a banpass has to be ported. The size of the port depends on the size of the sub and box. I would recomend a sealed box. A banpass just gives one kind of bass. That "puchy" kind and will always give you a constatnt bass no mater what you are listening to. A sealed box takes up less space and will give you a better freq. range making a variety of bass sounds or tones. I have done the ported box with one 12, a sealed box with one 12, a banpass with two 10's, a ported box with two 10's, and a sealed box with two 10's. and the sealed with 2 10's gave me the over all best sound.



R/Truck
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6/13/2002
11:15:58

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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Go to best buy, circuit city, etc. and take a look at their band bass boxes, they usuelly have several on the floor. WARNING: 3 -15" subs will reguire a bandpass box the size of noahs ark.



JMII
Dodge Dakota
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6/13/2002
18:41:40

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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If you know nothing about boxes then do NOT attempt to build a bandpass. They are very complex to get "right". So go with a simple sealed enclosure - it's easy to build and will work great with those L5s.

- John



Neil
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6/13/2002
19:22:59

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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I agree with JMII I know how to buld boxes and I perfer not to build banpasses I normaly talk them out of them go with the sealed



Joe E.
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6/17/2002
13:29:39

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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Hey there. I have a 1990 club clab and for about 1 1/2 years run a Sony head unit, sony 5.25 fronts, sony 5x7 rear, an MTX 2x 450 amp, and 2 Pioneer 12 in subs in a best buy Bandpass box. I know the Pioneers seem to do well in bandpass boxes so I went with them rather than sony xplodes.
My question is this: I dont like the big bandpass box. Takes up my whole back seat. If I went with a sealed box, what size would I need to make? And what subs run well with a sealed box? Thanks.
Joe E.



pondhopr
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6/17/2002
14:44:19

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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Joe---the pioneers you have work great in sealed enclosures--I would suggest 1.25 cubic feet per sub. IMO---pioneer subs are underatted. I have always been impressed by them and have owned numerous pairs.



Waltherone
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6/18/2002
14:32:15

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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You can sitl build a sealed box with plexiglass, since it seems that is what you mean by a bandpass anyway.

And, there are bandpasses with no glass at all as well, since the principle behind a bandpass is not having a plexiglass front, but rather a box that forces the air on BOTH sides of the sub thru ports.

IF someone were to build a sealed bandpass, that is, one with the sub sealed on both sides of the sub, it COULD be done, but would he hell on the sub. It would essentially be like an isobarik setup where you have two subs firing directly face to face but out of phase so when one excurts forward the other goes backward, thus pushing on each other. A sealed bandpass would be like an isobarik but with a minute fraction of the effeciency, and very very little volume output.

Just for the record :)



Joe E.
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6/18/2002
14:52:31

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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Thanks pondhopr, I agree abut the pioneers. They seem to have alot in them. But With my set up, the 400 watt max is simply not enuf. I have thought about going with a higher rated 12in pioneer because I can blow thos 400 W er easy on some music. Do you have any suggestions? I am not a guy who has to have mega volume, just a good sub that can play multiple bass frequencies without choaking. Thanks for your help. Have a good one.
Joe E.
Oh, whats the deal with Isoberic sub set ups?



Waltherone
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6/18/2002
20:00:29

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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Isobaric setups are what some people do when they have limited space. Only certain subs work under the condition though. It basically is, say for example, a ported box (I've seen them running sealed too but it didn't make a lot of difference honestly) and a sub facing out in a normal mount. Directly on top of that sub there is another sub (identical model, power, etc) facing IN (so that you are looking at only the basket of the sub on the outside of the box) and screwed on top of that sub. The outer sub (the backward one) is wired out of phase (by 180) so that when the enclosed sub pushes forward, the outer one is pulling back, and vice versa. They help push the other sub in the opposite direction. If done right you acheive decent volume gains without losing a lot of space for a HUGE ported box, but it's ugly as hell and I really don't see many people doing it..



ccc
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6/30/2002
23:15:04

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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there is no such thing a sealed bandpass sub box. you also do not force air from both sides of the sub out with a bandpass box. one side is sealed the other is ported. plexiglass is a option but makes no difference presuming you use the right thickness. the only box that uses both sides of the sub to push air is a ported box. but then the sub is mounted on the outer wall of the enclosure and the air pushed out the port is from the other side of the speaker cone. If you sealed both sides of the sub where would the air that you are trying to move come out(the sound). how about no output. just for the record.



JJ the Snipe
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10/03/2002
21:06:10

Best Sub Box
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I currently own two 12" Volfenhag subs and I have them in a bandpass box also I am running a American Leagacy 1000watt amp, what I was wondering is what would be the best amp and best box to put these in to get the loudest and punchiest bass i can.
Thanks



Chad
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10/04/2002
18:21:11

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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I see some errors here in some answers.

1) A bandpass box with BOTH sides sealed will NOT work. Why? Where would the sound be let out of the box? It wouldn't. You would hear a faint thumping through the walls of the box. It would be like yelling in a sealed room with the rest of world outside.

2) You can have a bandpass box with a port in the 1 chamber OR in both chambers. One chamber ported and the other sealed is called a sealed bandpass Both chambers ported is called a ported bandpass.

3) Bandpass boxes, while quite large and more complex to build, do not all neccessarily sound "one-note" like. If you design it carefully, and build it carefully, they can be very musical while still being quite loud (the biggest benefit to bandpass). Group delay is what causes muddiness of sound and is common with most bandpass designs.

To fit 3 15s in a bandpass, you could build a box in your CC with the subs in a bottom chamber, firing into a ported top chamber and have the front wall of the top chamber made of plexi for viewing.



vmalloo
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11/22/2002
19:23:09

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX...POSSIBLE?
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I want to build a banpass box for my car.I will be using one(1)only 12"-450watts kicker speaker.
I will be most happy if you can email me some building imforamtion on how to contruct my own banpass box.






TheBOOM
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12/08/2002
00:35:21

What & Where??
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I have a 1000 watt amp, a 1 farrad digital capacitor and 1 12" Rockford Fosgate Sub (RFD2112). I was wondering if it is better to go with a ported or a sealed box. Also the trunk that i am putting this in to is not very big, so i whant to know where sould i put the amp which is big. My back seats fold down but sometimes i have to put them up for people to go for a ride. I whant to have some room still left in the truck so I can put stuff in it. Should i put the amp on the back side of the seats and where sould I put the digital capacitor so i can see it(it is important to see it right?). Does it matter that the amp would be vertical? I hear amps bet hotter when not laying flat. Should I build a shelf over the box?



Zach Hammond
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1/01/2003
22:08:01

buying the right speaker
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I have a prob.I was thinking about buyong a 15in sony xplode speaker but, I found a 12in kicker for the same price which should i buy i am looking for loud clear bass i have an 1800 watt amp i am goin to hook 1 of the above speakers write back as soon as u can



jon
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1/03/2003
01:03:45

help!!
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i recently bought two jensen 10 inch subs in a bandpass. i am new to car audio, and i dont think i wuz gettin the result out of my subs, they didnt project much bass, is there anything i can do?i dont have an amp, could that be the problem, remember im new so you might need to get sorta specific, thanks alot!



Emily
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1/03/2003
19:56:44

RE: help!!
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Jon yes you have porblem you need an amp to push your subs otherwise they will sound like total crap you will want to get an amp that has a little more wattage than your subs. IF you don't have an amp then you are only useing the watts from your head unit which is only about 125 watts maybe not even that all depending on your head unit. An amp is used to push your subs to their fullest use. what i mean by that is an amp will push you subs as hard as they can be pushed but don't over dostate was it otherwise you will blow your subs then they will really sound like sht.



TheBOOM
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1/04/2003
10:49:44

RE: buying the right speaker
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Man, don't buy sony go with the kicker. Sony subs are not good.



PAUL
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2/23/2003
02:44:04

BRAND
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IS PYRAMID SUPER BLUE SUBS ANY GOOD? ARE KOILLER AMPS ANY GOOD? I HAVE TWO PYRAMID 700W SUPER BLUE 15s AND A 800W KOILLER AMP THAT IS BRIDGED. THEY SOUND OK BUT THEY DON'T HAVE THE BASS I WANT.I THINK I HAVE TWO THIN OF WIRES.WHAT GAGE DO I NEED? THINKS!



justin
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2/24/2003
05:28:16

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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hmmmm....sony sucks (for subs), jensen really sucks...for anything...brands such as pyrmid and koiller should be put out of business for trying to sell the overratted bullsh*t they make...you people should just learn that you get what u pay for...if u pay $100 for a 1000w amp do u honestly think it is gonna be worth 2 sh*ts? it prolly wont even put out 200w let alone sound good...last long...ect. instead of wasting money on that crap i suggest buying something worth spending money on such as Rockford, Kicker, JL Audio, Audiobahn, MTX...something with a proven history of effectivness and quality...i mean cmon...and jj the snipe...if u wanna make those subs sound better...ive never heard em so i dont know how theyd handle certain power levels...but my first thought would be to get a diff. amp...legacy fits right in with pyrmid...



MilleR/Time
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2/24/2003
17:28:53

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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Man there is some funny stuff in this thread.

Why would anyone with this many "basic" knowledge questions go about building a complex box like a bandpass box? And even though its been beat to death... No dont make a sealed bandpass box... your more likely to just start a fire and blow out your sub. If the air pressure builds up on both sides(and isn't vented) how the hell is the cone supposed to move?

As for some of the other questions about brands... its all choices... every company had to start somewhere but, there is a lot of crap out there. Look at some other posts about products on here. IMO for subs stick to some kicker or JL Audio subs. And if you dont have a lot of room... use a sealed box (it takes less airspace). Just my 2 cents.

Not tryin to be an ass... well not really



pong
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2/24/2003
19:26:07

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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I agree with justin. Too many times some low budget greasy haired car audio salesman talks those who are not in the "know" into buying the 3,000 watt pyramid amp for 49.95. Then, of course, he'll throw in a set of super thump subs for the low,low price of 19.95 each!!! But wait!!! If you buy right now you can get a second amp for the amazingly low, low, low price of 19.95.

Simple fact is---those guys---with the low budget crappy products belong in the infomercials with ginsu knives, juice machines, and the damn Ronco guy that sells the pocket fisherman and 1000 other cheesy products. You get exactly what you pay for in car audio. THAT IS A FACT.



PAUL
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2/25/2003
02:01:28

BRAND
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BESIDES THE KOILLER AMP I HAVE A 800 WATT SONY XPLOD AMP. DO YOU THINK THAT IS ANY BETTER? MY PYRAMID SUBS USED TO BE IN A BUICK REGAL AND THEY WOULD ROCK HOUSE WINDOWS BUT THEY HAD A GOOD AMP THEN. WHAT GAGE WIRE DO YOU THINK I NEED FOR A 800W AMP? THANKS



PAUL
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2/25/2003
02:03:43

BRAND
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BESIDES THE KOILLER AMP I HAVE A 800 WATT SONY XPLOD AMP. DO YOU THINK THAT IS ANY BETTER? MY PYRAMID SUBS USED TO BE IN A BUICK REGAL AND THEY WOULD ROCK HOUSE WINDOWS BUT THEY HAD A GOOD AMP THEN. WHAT GAGE WIRE DO YOU THINK I NEED FOR A 800W AMP? THANKS



justin
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2/25/2003
02:07:46

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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Id say if u had to choose between koiller and sony...id take the sony...its not top of the line or nuthin...but its a hell of a lot better than koiller...u should jus throw that thing away or sell it to some crackhead in the ghetto for 20 bucks...but i would advise upgrading your amp and especially your subs to a better brand. For any amp over 500w you should use 4 ga wire...unless of course you have some massive amp that requires 1 ga...but for that sony amp 4 ga will be fine...if it dont fit jus run 8 ga...



Masta D
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3/01/2003
01:30:02

HELP
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I have 2 12" Pioneer subs 450W peak/150W RMS each. i think of sellin them and getting just one 10" audiobah that would be bout 900W rms. Is that gonna be better, although it is a 10"? I also have a damn mustang with a small azz trunk. if i get to build my box...done it before, should i build a bandpass, a sealed, or a ported box? which would give me the best sound? And if i keep my subs, and do a sealed box, should i do 2 single boxes, or 1 dual box??? is there gonna be any difference in performance?




bigg bass
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3/04/2003
09:17:13

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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i would go with 1 L7 15 in a ported box with a kicker kx 600.1 amp i will blow your mind and since it is a singel sub less space counsuming than 3 15 that is what i have in my96 cc and it hits harder than the 4 12' comp vr i used to have in it i work as a delivery boy for east of chicogo so my 98 saturn akak delivery veical has two kicker comp 12 in i with a profile 800sx amp wich is decent but i will eventuly upgrade to a kicker also it hits mazzivly hard to



Prism
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3/05/2003
00:11:24

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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I have two Rockford Fosgate Punch HE 10" Subs in a
sealed box. I prefer the Sealed boxes to any other
becuase of the tight and clean notes. Every type of box
has its trade offs.
1) Sealed boxes have tighter cleaner bass but not the
volume
2) Bandpass boxes have a muddier sound but are
louder and produce more puch
3) Ported boxes are some where in the middle



enigma4u2eh
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3/07/2003
21:42:11

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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Oh boy, where to start. I've been out of car audio for a few years, but there are a few basics. First, bandpass is large and difficult. Stay away from it if at all possible, especially in a truck where space is tight. Next come ported boxes...again, can be difficult unless you understand how to tune it properly through the ports (not to mention which style...slot, tube, or the new "contoured" ports...use those to reduce chaffing noises.) A properly ported box can really hit low...but is less accurate. My personal favorite is the sealed enclosure. So long as you get it sealed properly, they are generally fairly hard to screw up. Make sure you use good materials and you will hit low, hard and accurate. And for goodness sakes, divide the subs. Use a little bit of egg crate or pillow baffling to help out the sound. Personally, I found the egg crate lined on all sides worked well. And for an added twist, take a piece of the egg crate and wrap around the basket of the sub...hits just a little lower and harder.

You should also keep in mind the sub that you are buying...my personal favorite of all time would be Orion, but JL's are good too. I also like the SoundStream Granite series and Infinity for a smoother, sound quality sub. Cerwin Vegas hit tight, but have (used to) paper composite cones that came off a bit rough to my ears. Someone mentioned the Pyramid Super Blue subs...I've heard them before, and when used properly they hit damn hard...and not just for what you are paying for them. Put them in the right box with the right amp/processors and you can compete with the big boys.

And the myth about all the box sizes...get real. You have to keep in mind the entire system...if you have a lower wattage amp, go with a bigger box (it will also "boom" a little lower.) If you have a monster amp and want tight, quarter popping off your roof bass, go with a smaller box. Most subs will take more wattage in a smaller box. And there is a science to this. Just remember that your 1000 watt subs probably won't take a 1000 watts in a 3 cubic foot box, no matter what size woofer...10, 12, or my personal favorite, the 15. Generally you can design the box for your vehicle and sub...then just need to match the proper wattage. For example, did you know you could put a 15 inch Orion DVC in a single, solitary 1 cubic foot box??? And it will hit harder than 2 10's in the same box. Don't believe me, try it.

I must agree with the others that when it comes to amps, go with a name you have heard...and from a reputable company. I've also always been fond of "high-current" amps.... What is meant here is that the more voltage you supply, the more wattage you will get (not to mention you can do interesting wiring combinations in parallel, series, or my favorite...series parallel bridged onto an Orion 250 HCCA. Yeah, they say its not stable but I ran mine that way for over 3 years and never had a problem with the amp...would eat the subs though...too much raw, clean power. I would get six to nine months on a pair...but with the lifetime warranty, they always replaced them with new ones for free.)

I hope it was worth the read....oh, and one last thing...always match or GO ONE GAUGE BIGGER for your ground, and keep it short. This is quite possibly the most overlooked item that will do nothing but eat your power supplies in those expensive amps. (This is also a trick to help your electronics run more efficiently and a little bit cooler.)

I'm out...



JMII
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3/08/2003
09:45:24

RE: SEALED BANDPASS BOX.....POSSIBLE?
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enigma4u2eh - right on man... you tell 'em :) espeically that high-current stuff. Most people have no idea what a good high-current, low-ohm amp can do - those things crank when pushed hard! Glad to see some here knows their stuff.

The only thing I disagree with is the one 15" vs two 10"s theroy. Now of course it depends on the power and air space - but two 10"s move more air then one 15" unless you've got a monster amp since the 15" is heavier. I had four 10"s in my old competition Honda Civic (300 watt class in IASCA) and easily out boomed guys with two 15"s mostly because they did not have the 15" in the right air space or they were not feeding them enough juice. A 15" takes massive power to move (300-500 watts) but a 10" will sound good even with only 150 watts.

Listen up people:
When designing a box and choosing the subs the #1 rule is figure out the air space FIRST then choose the correct size and number of subs. Too many people decide they want 15 or 12 inche subs BEFORE they even measure the available space. Then they do not have the room for 'em - what fools! Those same people would be better served with 10"s for sure. Hell multiple 8"s in the right space will crush most 12" or even 15"s in the wrong box. If you put a speaker in too small of a box it's roll-off downpoint goes up - thus you get NO low bass. This is especially true if your trying to squeeze out alot from a ported or bandpass enclosure - it ain't going to happen I tell ya.

It depends on what you listen, I like the faster Techno stuff and it requires smaller, lighter speakers to reproduce that rapid fire kick drum like 8s and 10s... Rap and R&B will sound better with bigger speakers like 12s and 15s that move slow and thus go low.

However, another trick is slot loading your subs - this makes even an 8" sound like 12" as it slows down the sound waves - just like that Bose Wave radio thingy does.

http://home.mindspring.com/~jntmoore/truck/home.html

- John



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