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AudioNoob
Dodge Dakota
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12/15/2004
02:00:55
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 Subject: sub wiring - two IDQ-10's
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I just bought two IDQ-10 D4 subs which I am going to drop into a club cab thunderform and I'm pretty d@mn confused about what amp to get, and amp wiring in general. I'm going to list off the options that i know of so far and maybe you guys can point me in the right direction. I want to give each sub the 250 watts RMS that ID recommends so I'm going to base everything off that. It may also help to tell you that I am more interested in SQ than SPL.
Option 1 (recommended by my boss) - 250x2 amp with each channel wired to 1 sub with VC's wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load.
Option 2 (recommended by sounddomain.com) - 2 channel amp bridged. Subs wired in parallel with each sub's VC's wired in series for a 4 ohm load.
I also have a couple of questions within option 2... How many RMS watts should the amp have in this configuration? Each sub takes 250 so should the amp be 500 or 250? I dont quite understand how the power gets distributed. Last question - what is the difference between using 2 bridged channels versus using 1 channel for putting out the same number of watts? I hope my crappy explanation makes sense to someone out there :)
If anyone could let me know of whatever amps are a sure fit for under the drivers seat in an '01 CC, and would put out 250 watts to each sub I'll be your best friend.
Many thanks to anyone who takes the time to help a noob out. Oh yeah, and if you want to suggest any other configurations i'd love to hear them!
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DSW
Dodge Dakota
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12/15/2004
03:08:51
|  RE: sub wiring - two IDQ-10's
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I have a similar configuration, 2-RF 10's in custom glass boxes, but they only handle 200Wrms each. I have a RF 301S amp that puts out about 375Wrms bridged, close enough for me.
A stereo amp driving a 2 ohm load will put out about the same power as the same amp bridged driving a 4 ohm load, look at the spec seets of amps that can handle a 2 ohm load stereo and 4 ohm load bridged. If you get an amp that's 250Wrmsx2 at a 2 ohm load it will probably be 500Wrms bridged at a 4 ohm load.
The RF 301S I have fits under the drivers seat, but there isn't much room left. I think the 401S shares the same heat sink as the 301S but the 501S has a larger heatsink. Oh, I didn't put on the end caps as they would make the amp stick out too far. The RF 401S should put out over 500Wrms.
I'v heard RF amps aren't what they used to be years ago when I was really into car stereo's, but I like the 301S. I go old school for my audio equipment, RF, Orion, Soundstream. Too bad most of these companies sold out. I am sure there's better amps out there, but it's going to cost you. Seeing that you got the IDQ's your not going cheap, good decision, you'll have the equipment for a long time. Heck I still have my 20 year old RF punch 150 amp,,, and it still works great.
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SS-84
Dodge Dakota
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12/15/2004
06:06:57
| RE: sub wiring - two IDQ-10's
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Get a Class D Monoblock Amp.
1channel @ 500wrms @ 2ohm
wire the speakers the way SD says.
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SS-84
Dodge Dakota
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12/15/2004
06:08:25
| RE: sub wiring - two IDQ-10's
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EDIT*******
Get a Class D Monoblock Amp.
1channel @ 500wrms @ 4 ohm
wire the speakers the way SD says.
EDIT********
4 OHM
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Dakman
Dodge Dakota
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12/16/2004
02:01:58
| RE: sub wiring - two IDQ-10's
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One thing to keep in mind is a un-loaded MTX Thundeform comes pre-wired in parrallel, with only one input.
So the SD configuration would not require you to rewire and add a second input to the Thunderform.
As far power goes, power divided by quantity of speakers. You would need a 500W amp for your two speakers, so you would have 250W going to each one.
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