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jmstr
Dodge Dakota
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3/28/2004
22:39:46
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 Subject: Invisible install
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Message:
Did you know that you can fit a Clarion 6 disc cd changer in the glove box of the 97 Dodge Dakota CC, and that you have enough room inside the rear side panel to install a 10" free-air subwoofer? This has the advantage of leaving you with ALL of the factory tool space under the rear seat and a sub that is truly invisable. Plus the cd changer, when installed right, has enough space for the owners manual and the head units' face plate.
The 4 channel amp fits into the rear drivers' side panel and the sub amp fits under the drivers' seat.
Now, admittedly, this is a system for quality sound at moderate levels [85x4 watts rms @ 12.9volts, 160x1 for sub] and is not designed to have the best 'thump' of its' kind. It is a good sound without any lost usable space [except the glove box. Hey, who carries gloves anyway? :) ]. The only thing is you have to cut metal to make it work. And you need to reinforce the metal on the passenger side to avoid buzz or rattles. It would be good to put the rear speaker in a foam waterproofing baffle also to avoid it reacting to the sub's air displacement.
A photo of the inside of my truck wouldn't show anything except the tweeters in the kick panels and the changer in the glove box [and I don't have a digital camera to upload one anyway], so I didn't include one: but it is all there.
Clarion headunit and cdchanger, USAccoustic 4channel and Profile 2 channel [bridged] amps, Infinity reference series component speakers and 2ways, Pioneer free-air 10" sub [50-250amp].
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hollerdawg
Dodge Dakota
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3/28/2004
23:04:06
|  RE: Invisible install
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hey that sounds like a really good idea about the sub i never thought of that hows the vibration/rattle how hard was it to do? what all did u have to do?
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conig
Dodge Dakota
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3/30/2004
18:12:49
| RE: Invisible install
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I though of mounting my idmax that way, but I am not a moderate soud level guy. lol
the sub gets ove twice as loud when I drop it in a box.=) so I went thisroute.
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jmstr
Dodge Dakota
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4/02/2004
15:29:32
| RE: Invisible install
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I haven't solved the rattle problem yet, but I also haven't worked on it. I haven't had any time to fine-tune the sub part of the stereo, as I had to replace the heater and evaporator core, and that was more important to me.
As for the difficulty, it wasn't: as long as you have a jig saw and a LOT of blades.
I think I know what to do to solve the rattle issue. I just need the time to do it. The first thing is to reinforce the metal body that the speaker is connected to over one of those 'air holes' in the panel, so that it is more rigid. I have a bunch of MDF, so I plan on making a wooden board to put the sub into and then reinstall it to the metal, with more wood on one end to bolt to the panel and reinforce it.
However, I think most of the rattle I am experiencing is coming from the door/wall panel that is over it and is 'buzzing' when the volume is above 2/3rds. This I have two fixes for also. The first is to remove the panel and spray some sound deadening compound on the back side to 'stiffen' it up and absorb some of the vibrations.
The second is to mount some form of foam spacer [styrofoam or foam rubber] to the back so that it is actually pressed out from the door panel. This should solve the problem that it can move forward and back about an inch and a half after the cutting to the metal beneath it. I figure the combination of a more rigid and sound deadened panel that isn't able to flex/move with the reinforced metal panel beneath it should solve the rattle problem.
As for volume, it fits my goals: good full range of all frequencies with bass you can feel at about 3/4 volume driving down the freeway at 70 mph with the windows down and still able to hear the music without distortion as I pass between two semi's. This doesn't drown the semi's out, but I can hear the music clearly and feel the bass. That is good enough for me. :)
Again, a sub-box will give deeper, harder-hitting bass than this free-air system does, but the way mine is rigged there is only wasted space under the drivers seat and in the glove box. You have the stock tool tray under the rear seat and nothing for passengers to step on under the passenger front seat. Like the title says: 'invisible install', but with good, full-range sound.
If I wanted a LOT of bass [for rap/hip-hop/r&b, etc] I would probably sacrifice the rear tray for a box. However, my tastes are groups like The Orb, Sunscream, Deep Forest, Depeche Mode, Inxs, The Who, Peter Gabriel, Tchaikovski, and other music that fits into either 'new wave', 'classical', 'jazz', 'Classic Rock', 'New Age', and those related groups. Just no hip-hop/Rap/country/gospel. I am not dis-en any of those styles, they just don't float my boat.
Good luck to all who enjoy music!
If anyone has more questions, email me at jmstr@earthlink.net
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DSW
Dodge Dakota
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4/02/2004
18:07:22
| RE: Invisible install
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jmstr, your on the right track. You need a solid surface to mount the sub to, peice of 3/4 MDF should work. You should also loosely stuff the cavity with poly fill (pillow stuffing), probably about 1/2# to 3/4# of the fill.
You might want to get some Dynamat to cover all the surfaces of the cavity. The sub is going to rattle the heck out of the body since the body isn't rigid, but the Dynamat will help to reduce the vibrations.
Try dynamatting everything, stuffing the cavity and putting foam weather stripping tape on the panels contact areas to eliminate the rattles.
I installed 2 subs that left more room under the seat than the stock tool tray. Check it out I just bumped it to the top of the forum.
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conig
Dodge Dakota
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4/03/2004
16:32:39
| RE: Invisible install
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Message:
I hope you don't think I was cracking onyour setup before. Its a real good idea, and does exactly what you want it too. I'm actually now trying to figure out a way to do something similiar.
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Ryan
Dodge Dakota
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4/05/2004
16:59:22
| RE: Invisible install
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Message:
Hey...
what about fiberglassing in the whole sidepanel making a vertical box???? just a thought.
Ryan
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