| From | Message | 
| J and J Auto GenII
 
    
  
 6/18/2008
 03:25:13
 
 |  Subject: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 I hear this to much about people doing mods
 losing power and mileage when even changing
 just the plugs and wires
 
 Even some new computers just do not do there job
 
 As Hughes Engines put it a person would be better
 off just getting a computer that works rught than
 doing any mods
 
 The Air/Fuel ratio is the key to it all power
 performance and gas mileage
 
 About 1 out of every 8000 trucks out there has
 a computer that does not work
 
 The A/F system must work properly
 
 Heres how I check that and you can set it up the
 same way or find a shop that has a A/F ratio
 reader
 
 I have in my truck and extra o2 bungs to check
 this on problem trucks
 A Nordask anolg A/F meter a Nordask quick reacting
 o2 sensor
 
 Now as I have on my truck a extra bung a seporate
 o2 sensor and the anolog meter which will read
 from 12 to 18 A/F
 
 crusing light load 14.5 to 15
 excelleration 13.5 12.5
 coasting down hill upto 16.5 17
 Here is your power
 Here is your gas mileage
 
 Now to check the system ether set this up or
 find a shop that has a A/F reader
 get a tee and a short piece of hose and a simple
 LP gas torch hook it into the PCV line run the
 truck now turn the torch on and feed the motor
 some LP and watch the ratio change and the
 computer should readjust the ratio in a mater
 of just a few seconds if it does not you have
 a system that is not operating correctly
 
 This is the 1 in 8000 trucks with the problem
 I try mods no change or runs worse better plugs
 and wires worse gas mileage less power
 
 As I said in the exhaust temp post 99.9% of the
 shops dealers and garages have no clue how to
 check this fix it or even aware that this problem
 even exsist
 
 It takes a very savy tech that is almost imposible
 to find who is even aware of this or even how to
 begain to solve the problem
 
 It starts with the o2 sensor or sensors
 a small signal loss from o2 to computer
 worst of all just a computer that just
 does not work as it was designed to
 
 This is how to find the problem with the system
 now figure out why it does not work correctly
 now fix the problem
 
 Heres 2 guys same truck same options 1 guy gets
 22mpg the other 15mpg why well after reading this
 post you should know why
 
 Just something so simple I like the way Hughes
 Engines put it the guy would be farther ahead
 just to have a computer that worked right than
 doing any mods
 
 now if we switched computers on these trucks I
 would bet any amount of money that exactly the
 oposite would be true the guy getting 15 would
 now get 22 the guy getting 22 would now get 15
 
 This holding true only after making sure the o2's
 are working properly and there is no signal loss
 to the computer in both trucks
 
 Heres a big problem mopar has so many splices
 in the harnas just between the comp and the
 o2 that a signal lose in not unusual at all
 
 The Air/Fuel ratio is the key and the system
 must work correctly and readjust in a second or
 2 or you will never win the fight here
 
 The computers A/F ratio adjustment system must,
 MUST work right or you will go nowhere very fast
 
 This test is so simple and so cheap to do and will
 show the problem within just a few seconds its
 just to good to be true for you guys with the
 bad mileage, low power just a dog and even a
 worse situation created by chrysler themselfs
 getting on of these bad systems not working
 properly making the truck ping than just pulling
 timing out to solve the problem making the truck
 even less powerful and fuel efficieant is a joke
 
 This instead of solving the real problem of
 Air/Fuel Ratio system just bogals my mind
 
 I may have gotten a little long winded here but I
 am trying to have you all understand what is
 really going on here with these computers and
 the most important thing they must do and
 do RIGHT
 
 Just think about what the old time racers would
 have to go thru making a run pulling the plugs
 changing the jets making another run
 
 Now we have test equipment that can read this
 ratio in 2 seconds and computers if working
 right can readjust this is just a few seconds
 
 Technology is great it can also be a nemisis
 just hiding below the surface
 
 feeding that motor some LP gas and watching the
 ratio change and readjust in a few seconds is
 fantastic do it at idle run the motor at 1000rpm
 test there than at 2000rpm than at 3000rpm
 watch it change and instantly readjust itself and
 heres a litle clue if it takes more than 3 to 4
 seconds its not working right the computer checks
 the air fuel ratio like 60 times a second and
 should readjust within 2 secs or its bad
 
 This is where all these poor guys out there with
 doggie trucks getting crap mileage I just feel
 so sorrie for I wish I could just be everywhere
 and help them all out
 
 I don't have a customer with a V6 that gets less
 than 20mpg not a one when they drive normal with
 just a little hot rodding 20 or better the V8's
 are also 20 or better on the highway and some of
 these trucks came to me after being to the dealer
 getting 14 15 mpg or less
 
 I took the time and got them right and I have
 many very happy people on the road I have some
 2 wheel V6 Daks getting 26 27mpg this is the
 older guys who never hot rod or break the speed
 limit
 
 These people are so happy at least twice a week
 someone brings me a pizza knowing it is my
 favorite thing to eat
 
 This world really needs some changes people
 should help one another not try to scew everyone
 around them just for more money especialy the
 big businesses all they want is your money and
 screw you
 
 Larry
 J&J Auto
 
 
 | 
| J and J Auto GenII
 
    
  
 6/23/2008
 00:33:48
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 Humm
 
 I find this odd not even 1 comment on this
 
 And being the most important thing the computer
 has to do
 
 Larry
 J&J Auto
 
 
 | 
| 01DakSport Dodge Dakota
 JOIN HERE
 
 
 6/23/2008
 11:01:05
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 i gotta tell ya thats probably one of the most informative things ive seen on this site. i always hear ppl talking about how their dakotas get crappy mpg. especially a v6 making 14-15?! thats about where i fall and thats if i drive like a gramma and shift 1 3 5. sounds like a perfect weekend project to me.right after my durango TB and cold air intake.=)
 
 
 
 
 | 
| dakota49 Dodge Dakota
 JOIN HERE
 
  
 6/23/2008
 20:54:46
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 Larry, I can see where you are coming from and it does make sinse to me. Mine is an 88 and I am getting better than most of the newer trucks. When I rebuilt my engine, I had the block decked, and the heads milled, that raised the compression fromaround 120# to 180#, plus I can adjust my timing I think that helps a little as well. I also have the Halo's, and NGK 02. I am very happy with my "old truck".
 I'm getting 18-22 around town, and 22-24 on highway, though I'm not a real fast driver, highway 65-70 we have a 70 MPH speed limit where I live.
 Thanks for the long post, I think most of us can appreciate it.
 Good Luck
 Dakota49
 1988 3.9 4X4 5speed
 
 
 
 
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| jjk656 Dodge Dakota
 JOIN HERE
 
  
 6/23/2008
 21:40:23
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 what if i dont have lp gas..  is there another way to test this?
 
 
 
 
 | 
| LOL Dodge Dakota
 JOIN HERE
 
 
 6/23/2008
 23:01:39
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 "and it does make sinse to me"
 
 SINSE ??????????
 
 
 
 
 | 
| screwuphead Dodge Dakota
 JOIN HERE
 
 
 6/24/2008
 01:26:53
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 excellent post here Larry!
 
 
 
 
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| pete Dodge Dakota
 JOIN HERE
 
 
 6/24/2008
 10:37:04
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 This test Larry is long forgotten procedure I know I was taught in my training days when carbs were about with a exhaust gas analyzer very essential to the experienced mechanic that I have used in diagnostics to pinpoint problems.The problem like many dont have access to LP gas so aside you could opt for carb/throttle body cleaner to and watch it on a scan tool as well as volt meter. Hats off to you Larry for a great post that many could utilize alot POOR MILEAGE blunders.I would of thought everyone thinks Iam to complex to post this thought and not understand where I am coming from but there you beat the punch and clear and stern to what is really going on with these trucks. Go enjoy your pizza before I get to it!! leave me a slice......
 
 
 
 
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| J and J Auto GenII
 
    
  
 6/25/2008
 23:13:54
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 You can buy an LP gas torch at any hardware store
 
 Yes another way
 
 Manualy lift the egr but thid only posible on the
 obd1 trucks 96 and up have no egr but you could
 pull a vac line and lean out the mixture and see
 if the computer compensates
 
 You can just take a vac line from the egr valve on intake and as easy as just sucking on the
 vac line will lift the valve
 
 I know its a mess but a very true thing that is
 going on and most will never find or check the system operation
 
 Larry
 J&J Auto
 
 
 | 
| pete Dodge Dakota
 JOIN HERE
 
 
 6/26/2008
 09:35:54
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 Yea, that sums as you say to ripping off the consumer and lot of mechanics lost and blame on something else and disturb example timing and telling the average consumer this is your problem and not known to us savy mechanics know better in most timing is not adjustable on late model trucks,cars etc. I know we can play around and alter the crank sensor but many dont even know how to do that more less a parts replacing technician,why should I get my hands dirty like Ive posted in earlier posts and this is we come in fix the problem if you take the time not go through a lousy test procedure and get to a point in the testing and stop at saying "sensor bad replace" come on at how much an hour for troubleshooting and diagnostics people need to wake up most want it fixed now and fast so I can get back on the road leaving a boomerang waiting to return and most of all unhappy customer and confused mechanic.Probaly babbled on several different subjects here hopefully I didnt confuse anyone.... Larry anymore pizza left?...
 
 
 
 
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| J and J Auto GenII
 
    
  
 6/27/2008
 03:28:52
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 I like chrslers fix
 
 The death flash
 
 They know its running lean and pinging so instead
 of fixing the real problem easy lets just
 pull some timing and let it go out like a dog
 
 Now the guy has a gutless wonder that sucks gas
 like a pig
 
 Makes the customer real happy think he will ever
 buy another dodge
 
 How discusting is that
 
 Larry
 J&J Auto
 
 
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| ftheabus Dodge Dakota
 JOIN HERE
 
 
 6/27/2008
 09:19:38
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 Once the 'death flash' is applied can the 'puter be reflashed back to its original configuration? Don't see why not and then attack the problem as you suggested.
 
 
 
 
 | 
| Dan M Dodge Dakota
 JOIN HERE
 
  
 6/27/2008
 10:56:04
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 Can't you get a decent check of the a/f ratio from an obdii scanner and the short term fuel trim at idle for a baseline and then with throttle applied?
 
 - Dan M
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 | 
| pete Dodge Dakota
 JOIN HERE
 
 
 6/27/2008
 18:41:19
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 Larry definetly the death flash is a lazy way fix like a bandaid on sore wound. Dan thoughts maybe run up a spreadsheet sounds insane but might be helpful I guess Iam one of those number crunching junkies that like to look at all the variables and whats going on with a paticular system...
 
 
 
 
 | 
| J and J Auto GenII
 
    
  
 6/28/2008
 00:05:56
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 You can watch injector response but it will not tell you if the a/f is were its supose to be
 
 You can get the computer reflashed by an after-
 market shop who flashes but chrysler will not
 change it back
 
 Heres another one that chrysler does injector sync
 they will not set it past 0 when they know dam
 well they run better at +3 to +6
 
 Like some poor guys who have converter failure
 over and over again this is caused by the a/f
 ratio being way off and chrysler does nothing to
 solve the real issue
 
 I really like this one chrysler does
 tells the customer that is normal such things as
 rough idle, flat spots among other things
 
 All it takes is just one little glitch in the comp
 and it appears to be working properly but in
 reality the a/f ratio is not right
 
 One real easy way to judge this is by plug color
 they should be a light to med tan color and the
 same on every cyl if white or black its off
 most guys with power and gas mileage complaints
 there plugs are white and chrysler than tells
 them this is normal they run lean thats bull
 
 We tested this and ran plugs 2 ranges colder and
 they were still white if the motor is not running
 eficiantly the power and gas mileage will take
 a big hit.
 
 It just makes you wonder about them sometimes
 and there factory trained techs
 
 But first you need to be dam sure all the sensors
 are working properly if so and still lean its
 the computer
 o2
 TPS
 engine temp
 IAT air temp
 map
 this all togather control a/f ratio lets say the
 engine temp is reading cold it will run rich
 reading hot will run lean
 
 but even with this condition the plug color will
 either lighten up or darken slightly
 
 but even these being off a little the o2 and
 comp should compensate to adjust the ratio
 
 its a catch 22 deal
 
 Larry
 J&J Auto
 
 
 | 
| pete Dodge Dakota
 JOIN HERE
 
 
 6/28/2008
 08:06:58
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 Another vaild point with plugs my #1 check this is your window frame if you know how to correctly read a plug.I used have a customer come on in for a oil change, plugs changed air/fuel filter change and tell me got keeping running lean to keep the carbon out of there every 3000 miles try explain this one considering the car was newer with no problems on bill when myself knew it was running lean and always tweak his carb idle mix screws bit on the richer side and every time he came for the 3000 maintenance I would find this changed and asked and always told nobody touches this car but you guys hmmm... but being a stubborn senior citizen set in his ways I just made him happy by telling him yep your running lean and clean see you next time, if I only save all those plugs Ive changed for him, then he probaly thinking I am ripping him off if I showed him every time he came in plugs just as they came out of the box then he remark saying that hes on fixed income only spend this much.My boss was always pushing for sells not truth unless it was his family member better take the time here and for everyone else WTF I say to myself but this is what lead his bussiness to Chapter 11 and me in the streets with an unpaid SnapOn tool bill my coworker and me  knew it was coming but he didn't listen to us thats were my sour note of being good mechanic and no one can take that away from me, still use simple principles as you post and was taught it goes a long ways even with todays technology improving but guys like us know better what to do to fix the problem. And best one is in a bottle all those additives for your fuel another bunch of crap there, enough my babble... little to much coffee and got up to early
 
 
 
 
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| Dan M Dodge Dakota
 JOIN HERE
 
  
 6/28/2008
 09:20:13
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 If you know the PCM is working properly and you're at 14.7:1 a/f then short term fuel trim should be at 0%, neither rich nor lean - in theory anyway.
 
 If the STFT is +% then means PCM thinks vehicle is running lean and is adding fuel. If STFT is -% then PCM thinks vehicle is running rich and is subtracting fuel.
 
 This is a good way to test the sensors you mentioned above Larry.  These sensors are what causes the PCM to adjust the fuel mixture, the STFT is the result of the PCM fuel adjustments.
 
 If the STFT is always near 0% (due to normal O2 operation of switching between rich/lean you will see a little variation of the 0% both +% and -%).  If you see large change 1 way and not the other or if the STFT % is fairly high (both +% and -%) then you know the PCM is having to add/subtract a fairly large amount of fuel then you need to do further troubleshooting.
 
 
 Here's a thought for you Larry. I changed the 02 sensors in my dakota about 20k miles ago with the NGK you recommended. The sensors I pulled out were denso (I purchased truck used at 45k miles from dodge dealer).  The denso sensors were switching a little slow.  I figured why not just change.  The new NGK sensors switched faster, I thought I had done a good thing.  Then I bought my 08 avenger R/T. I hooked up my autoxray 6000 to it and watched the o2 sensors .. man those buggers FLY!  they change 2x-3x faster than the new NGK's in my dakota.
 
 - Dan M
 
 
 
 
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| ryan Dodge Dakota
 JOIN HERE
 
  
 6/28/2008
 14:01:54
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 I've been reading this and it's all very informative.  My truck's been knocking and I think it's been running rich.  Let me know what you guys think I should do because i'm pretty much at a loss.
 
 (I posted this on another forum but no one answered me)
 first of all, it seems that on a cold start the knock is really bad and slows down when the engine warms up, but it''s still there.  also, the engine backfires sometimes when cold and it sounds (and feels) like it''s backfiring in the y-pipe.
 it cant be a bad plenum gasket because when i swapped to a hughes stage one manifold I put on the plenum re-enforcement kit (guaranteed to never blow the gasket again).  also, there does seem to be alot of black sooty residue that builds up inside my tailpipe.  The last time I changed my plugs, they were pretty black.  All of this normally would point to a bad o2 sensor but that would result in poor mileage.  my truck usually gets about 20 mpg city/highway mixed, so it does not seem to be affecting milage.  I do have a 180 thermostat, but that wouldnt matter because when the truck is started for the first time in a while it''s going to be cold no matter what, and thats when the knock is at it''s worst.
 I have a stock computer and a stock ignition except for a good cap and rotor and some low resistance wires.  to me, all of this info points to not enough timing causing there to be unburned fuel, but as we all know you cant just adjust the timing.  The only other thing i can think of is that an o2 is getting lazy and not doing it''s job on startup but once it gets warmed up starts working ok.  I would like to be able to confirm this before changing o2''s.  I am going to be changing my plugs again in the next couple days.  does anyone think opening up the gap a little might help?  im open to any suggestions.
 
 
 
 
 
 | 
| Dan M Dodge Dakota
 JOIN HERE
 
  
 6/28/2008
 19:09:39
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 hey ryan. I would not look to o2 sensor first because at start-up (cold engine) the o2 sensors are NOT used in open loop. When the engine warms up and goes to closed loop that is when the o2 sensors used.
 
 In my old 95 with 3.9L I had a backfiring problem and it was a pain to find. Finally after a week or two as I was driving I noticed my temp guage bounce!  I knew my temp sender was good. Swapped the temp sensor.. backfiring went away!
 
 I suggest you buy or borrow a scanner. I bought one of the cheaper ones for $100 and it was pretty limited. I finally recently spent a little cash and bought an autoxray 6000 from a place on the internet.  I found a really good deal for it. I got it and the chrysler enhanced cable for around $320 shipped!  it does obdi and obdii.
 
 it will show you the o2 sensor as well as coolant temp and a host of other stuff (autoxray.com)
 
 back to your problem, sounds like you are running too rich from what you described.
 
 during warm up pcm takes into account
 battery voltage
 crankshaft position sensor
 engine coolant temp
 intake air temp
 map sensor
 tps sensor
 camshaft position
 park/neutral switch
 a/c select switch
 
 warm-up is before the engine reaches normal operating temp.
 
 also check your battery! I just replaced plugs and battery (replaced the battery becase the neg terminal was coming out of the battery!!) and my reving idle problem when cold seems to be solved!!!
 
 good luck
 
 - Dan M
 
 
 
 
 
 
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| J and J Auto GenII
 
    
  
 6/29/2008
 02:50:06
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 Get some good plugs like the NGK Vpower at $2.40ea
 FR4 stock range
 FR5 1 colder
 and be sure your air filter is clean
 
 Check both your
 engine temp sensor
 IAT incoming air temp sensor
 Also the map sensor if its telling the comp that
 the engine is under more load than it is will
 pull timing and run rich
 
 If either is reading cold it will run on the
 rich side the computer thinks the engine or
 incoming air is cold
 
 take a look at the o2 sensor)s from cold start
 
 4.8 4.6 min if lower either sensor or resistance
 in wire under 4.6 it will never operate corectly
 sensor supply is 5 volt but none of the sensors
 should read higher than 4.8 all sensors same
 that run on this computer supplyed 5 volts
 
 I have also seen computers with a supply voltage
 being low than nothing works as it should effects
 all sensors
 
 3.8 1 min
 2.8 2min
 will begain its flip flop 2 to 2 1/2 min if not
 its lazy even 2 1/2 is getting lazy most should
 begain fliping whithin 2 min un less its like
 30 below 0
 
 this is the max time it should take
 the lower flop .1 to .3
 upper flop .9 to 1 volt
 
 .3 to .8 bad this is pushing the window of
 operation .4 bad .7 bad
 
 As you can see there are many things that can
 effect the a/f ratio you need to eliminate all
 of these things first if all ok than take a
 look at the computer not doing its job
 
 It takes a good mech to check things out and
 most don't the scanner says nothing wrong so
 to them there is nothing wrong this is a bad
 thing and than give the customer a bunch of
 bull that its normal and the way its was designed
 to run this really pisses me off when I hear
 this get the vehicle to work on and find many
 little things wrong that were never even
 considered or checked
 
 A scanner cant tell you everything
 
 Yes on some of the newer vehicle the sensors
 begain to operate at lower temps and move very
 fast especialy on the high performance engines
 they need to react very quick
 
 I have a few customers like that myself that say
 they never touch anything but are always tinkering
 around mostly older guys
 
 I got a guy on the carb screws once I used some
 white out that you use for typing errors and made
 a dot on the screw and 1 on the carb and it was
 moved LOL he just laughed and said I guess you
 caught me
 
 I have also seen many businesses go under from
 saying they did things or changed things but
 never did, I have a supply of zip lock bags in
 the shop and always put there old parts in them
 and set them in there vehicles, I know of 1 shop
 that would only change 1 or 2 plugs and charge
 them for all of them this guy is long gone now
 
 Like the one guy said I am in business to make
 money not friends, I told him a happy customer
 is one that will come back he said I was steeling
 his customers and only stayed in business for
 just over a year in a small town stuff like that
 gets around real fast and no one will go there
 
 Larry
 J&J Auto
 
 
 | 
| J and J Auto GenII
 
    
  
 6/29/2008
 03:41:18
 
 |  RE: The A/F system check IP: Logged
 
 Message:
 I will add this little tidbit
 
 and as someone else has mentioned here and I have
 said in many posts
 
 YOUR SPARK PLUGS truly are your window to see
 exactly how your motor is running
 
 If you do not have a book that shows you plug
 examples and colors just put reading spark plugs
 into any of the search engines and you will find
 pics online you can look at
 
 Must be a light to med tan sandy color also on
 the reg conventional plugs if you look at the
 ground strap you will notice a color change along
 its length the change line should be right on
 or just above or below but very close to where
 the bend radious is on the ground strap
 
 Reading this is also a great way to determin the
 optimal gap if its a little low open the gap this
 will increase spark intensity and raise the change
 line if high to close to the end of strap close
 the gap this will decrease spark intensity
 
 jumping a bigger gap increases intensity a smaller
 gap will decrease intensity
 
 This will tweak each induvidual system for
 optimal operation
 no 2 systems are the same
 
 Now I am getting into super tuning your system
 
 And all plugs should be very close in color to
 each other if 5 of 6 are fine and 1 black or
 white that cyl is not right and should be looked
 at to see why
 bad wire, cap plug itself. Bad injector or a vac
 leak will cause this
 
 having just 1 cyl not running upto snuff on the
 V6 will effect power performance and gas mileage
 when all cyls are producing the same amount of
 power you run smoth and run well
 
 I guess I do get rather long winded and carried
 away at times but its just my nature to try to
 help everyone, I have always been that way
 
 I don't crisize people for asking dumb questions
 or doing dumb things when they do I try to
 explane what happend or what is going on so they
 will know and understand, that is how people
 learn and find out things
 
 Not everyone was rebuilding carbs and tunning
 motors when they were 12 years old like I was
 doing in my fathers garage and end up owning
 the business
 
 I look at it this way everyone has the opertunity
 to learn diff things in there life and they need
 to be respected for the things they know not
 critisized for the things they don't know
 
 That is why I take the time to explame things I
 know and use what I know to help others
 
 It takes all kinds to make up a world
 
 hers another way to look at the respect thing
 
 I would not want a dentest working on my car
 nor would that dentest want me drilling on his
 teeth
 
 Larry
 J&J Auto
 
 
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