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emeraldakota Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/20/2003 16:05:35
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Subject: from dino to synthetic IP: Logged
Message: hey guys i go the truck jacked up.. i bought fullysynthetic mobil 1 oil and filter..switching over from penzoil and fram. when draining old oil do i have to let drain longer than normal. ??
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Daksmack Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/20/2003 18:23:25
| RE: from dino to synthetic IP: Logged
Message: Neh, just drain and poor like you would otherwise.
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Sephiroth Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/20/2003 18:27:49
| RE: from dino to synthetic IP: Logged
Message: Uh, you REALLY should use some motor-flush before adding the new synthetic! Mixing old and new is a BIG no-no!
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TECH Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/20/2003 20:47:41
| RE: from dino to synthetic IP: Logged
Message: Mixing is fine. It's not a big amount anyway. What do you think is in the "Synthetic Blend" oils ?
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Bolt Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/21/2003 02:28:04
| RE: from dino to synthetic IP: Logged
Message: Don't EVER use Motor Flush! That stuff will screw up your engine for good. At best, it will loosen up the sludge around your seals and your engine will leak like a seive. At worst, little bits of sludge will clog up your oil passages.
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AmsoilSponsor DakotaEnthusiast
6/21/2003 08:54:39
| dino to synthetic - Engine Flush - Amsoil IP: Logged
Message:
Most newer and low mileage vehicles can switch from dino to synthetic at any time without a flush. If you have a higher mileage vehicle I would recommend an engine flush.
Amsoil has an Engine Flush, but I am posting here to PERHAPS offer you an alternative. I have never used this product, but know many guys that have in older engines. It's name is Auto-Rx, (and no - I do not sell this product).
This product that should be considered no matter what oil or engine used (even though some Amsoil Clients have used it with great success, and Auto-Rx's website states you should use it with dino). Again, the product name is Auto-Rx. It is vegetable based and I've been told that it does not affect chemistry or viscosity at all.
It is NOT an Additive but a engine cleaner that (I've been told) really works. It has a residual effect because it cleans the rings and valve seats and valve guide seals so well. Lasts 10000 miles or so in a gasoline engine.
Should you be concerned about seals? I've been told this stuff will simply clean the abrasive deposits that keep the seal from functioning normally. I've also talked to guys that have run tests and they say it doesn't damage anything.
I know another guy that told me he used it in an older engine with a noticable oil pan gasket leak and it almost stopped the leakage after 500 miles. He also stated that it also helped his noisy lifters and cleaned off baked on varnish.
Again, this is not a recommendation, just looking to offer a "safe" alternative for Dakota owners that would prefer to flush their engines prior to switching.
You can check out their website at www.auto-rx.com
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Steven Roark , Amsoil Dealer , Proud Sponsor of www.DodgeDakotas.com
AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils, Lubricants, Filtration, and Truck Care Products
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Sephiroth Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/22/2003 20:17:24
| RE: from dino to synthetic IP: Logged
Message: I've always used motor flush and don't have a single leak in the engine. Heck I bought a can of "Engine Bright" to clean off my engine and didn't even use an ounce of the stuff it was so clean. Underneath is nearly the same story. Oh, and my friend John has a 1987 Jaguar XJ6 (inline 6-cyl, mass hp/real Jag since Ford bought them out in 1988) and he has always flushed his motor with "Gunk Motor Flush" and/or kerosene every oil-change. His car still runs like new and doesn't leake a drop of anything, so flushing your motor with this brand can't be harmful. If it was, he'd be in need of a new motor by now!
As for mixing synthetic and regular, I think you should check with somebody at Dodge. I know for a FACT thatit has messed up two people's cars that mixed it. Ruined the headers on one and I have no clue what happened on the other. Also, it says on most bottles not to mix it. Now if a new engine is somehow setup to take both regular oil and synthetic at the same time, go for it. Personally though, I feel it's a bad move, and when I switch to synthetic, I'm cleaning the engine thoroughly.
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LowDown Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/24/2003 06:40:18
| RE: from dino to synthetic IP: Logged
Message: Seph........
The product you mentioned ( Gunk ) is best suited for SLUDGE problems and not for a flush when switching from dino to synthetic which is what this thread is about.
Problem with Gunk and other low flash products is they clean the top layers of buildup and then in the engine cook off. They also leave a layer of residual coating ( chemical and coked ) that can end up spinning a bearing ( if you care ).
I don't like hazardous low flash point solvents.
AUTO-RX is NOT a low flash point solvents.
I think the Amsoil guy's recommendation of Auto-RX is correct for a flush before switching. Gunk Motor Flush in nothing but a beater ..... or a car that you don't want additional problems with down the road.
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Matt Kleist Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/26/2003 02:17:03
| RE: from dino to synthetic IP: Logged
Message: Hey you guys, I just bought a 2000 QuadCab with the 4.7 in it. It has 43k mi. Should I put synthetic in it or just stick with the regular stuff?
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dakman Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/26/2003 09:27:09
| RE: from dino to synthetic IP: Logged
Message: Just make the damn switch. Why do people over analyze every single change to their trucks? These are Dodge Dakota's, not a Ferarri or Porsche. Have you ever in your entire life heard of anyone doing engine damage from switching over to sythetic without some sort of engine flush? Remember, they make synthetic blends so it is obvious that they are compatable. I have been using Mobil 1 since the late 80's in all of my cars. I switch over at my first oil change, around 1000 miles or so. I then change the oil every 5-6 thousand miles after that. I use factory, Hastings or Wix filter and I have never ever had any type of engine trouble.
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TECH Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/26/2003 12:25:25
| RE: from dino to synthetic IP: Logged
Message: How would mixing synthetic oil with dino oil cause a header problem. And from what I've seen, most containers state that sythetic oil is compatible with all conventional oils. Get your facts straight, and don't believe everything you here, especially from people who don't know jack.
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slopehead Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/26/2003 16:46:56
| RE: from dino to synthetic IP: Logged
Message: Really!!!!!!
Sephiroth thinks oil runs thru the exhaust headers, LMFFAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Lots of people mix synthetic with dino all the time, usually while on a trip and "down a quart" and never have problems. I'll bet ol' Seph is under 20 and thinks he knows it all.
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slopehead2 Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/26/2003 17:28:56
| RE: from dino to synthetic IP: Logged
Message: And you're old ass is 30 and think you know it all. The guy passed on information he thought was true, thats what this forum is here for. It sucks its not true, but its ridiculous that you jack him for it. If everyone knew all this stuff, there would be no need for this forum, eh. Take it easy on people guys. BTW, I am 20, and I do know more than you. :) Later Sh1thead
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slopehead3 Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/28/2003 15:01:20
| RE: from dino to synthetic IP: Logged
Message:
Original dude asked:
.....do i have to let drain longer than normal. ??
Simple Answer:
NO !!!
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Charles Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
6/30/2003 14:34:59
| RE: from dino to synthetic IP: Logged
Message: Castrol started all the controversy and therefore has mislead and confused the public. Castrol Syntec is NOT a real synthetic.
Castrol's Syntec is a blend of Group 3 and esters. Given the rather mediocre specs for these oils, there is obviously very little ester in the base oil blend. TRUE Synthetics are either Group 4, Group 5, or a combination of the two.
Prior to "the big change" in the late 90s, Syntec was a blend of Group 4 (PAO) and Group 5 (esters) ........ a REAL Synthetic. Now it is a PRETEND synthetic ........ Group 3. You might as well use DINO.
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