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03:32:59 - 12/29/2024
Dakota Performance
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Nicks Dakota
Dodge Dakota
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7/09/2002
18:40:50
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 Subject: So here is what I know so far..
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The M-1 will give me a huge HP gain. It replaces the stock intake manifold. With this I would have no need to buy the K&N Gen II right? And the M-1 is a better mod than just the K&N, yet more expesnive.
So if it breaths in eaiser it should breath out eaiser. Since I have an exhaust already...a throttle body would then be the next best thing to add? And then I have to decide between a 50mm or a 52mm. Then beteen the flowmetrics which is a new part. Or the others which is a modified factory part, yet cheaper with a core replacment.
This is the information I have gathered with searches. Several days worth of searching. Now I need to ask a few questions...I read in a few posts about the importance of an aftermarket computer with the M-1. But would that do anything with a 318 and a manual tranny? Or could I get by with a decent gain without it? Is there any reason other than 190 Geroge Washingtons to go with the standard K&N cold air intake over the M-1.
For the $425 M-1 do I get everything from install kit, gaskets, and nts and bolts, to the actual manifold? How much fabricating would I need to do? Fabricating conponets has always been fun to me...so long as my skill allowed me to.
And finally, what guidence would you give me. I installed a robert shaw 180° T-stat and the autolites this weekend. And they made the truck run smoother. But that and an exhaust is all I have done. Is there any reason to do anything besides an intake and a TB next? Headers?
My overall goal is to have a truck that is quick (which it is but not super quick) off the line...and maybe in the quarter. A few friends and I are considering entering a few of the drags at the local track. But I don't want to kill myself for off roading. Which I also love to do.
Oh and the details.
97 sport regular cab, 318, manual 5 speed.
Here is some pics from my Moab trip, incase it helps you get a sense of her personality :):
http://www.geocities.com/dakotatruck4x4/moab0022.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/dakotatruck4x4/moab0016.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/dakotatruck4x4/moab0004.jpg
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Jon
Dodge Dakota
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7/09/2002
19:53:40
| RE: So here is what I know so far..
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You say you have an exhaust, do you mean a catback exhaust? If you you should get some headers too. Otherwise you won't realize the full performance gains of your induction system mods.
-Jon
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Nicks Dakota
Dodge Dakota
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7/10/2002
00:43:47
| RE: So here is what I know so far..
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I don't beleive I have a catback exhaust. Just a fancy dancy 1 in 2 out muffler.
I was reading through some sigs and noticed that a few people had the M-1 and a K&N Gen II. Is having both do-able or worth it?
Does it seam logical to get an M-1 first. And then a TB (doing more readin suggests a 50mm is the way to go), and then get headers? Or switch the order around?
I apoligize if these questions have been asked before. But I can't find them anywhere in my searches. Hopefully I can return the favor. Thanks in advance.
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kota on 20s
GenIII
7/10/2002
01:22:25
| RE: So here is what I know so far..
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Nick, the M-1 is a manifold, not a air cleaner. if you get a M-1 i would HIGHLY recomend getting the K&N gen II.
for a 318, i hear the 52mm TB is too big, and will cause you to lose some torque. also, the 318 and 360 use the same TB, so if the factory TB can feed a stock 360, it should feed a modded (to a point) 318. i have a 50mm TB on my 318, and dont think it is worth the $$. you can do some mods to your TB, and get a little power out of it for free.
like you, i also have a 5speed. and unfortunatly for us, there is no mopar pcm available. you can have it custom flashed for $400, but you have to send your pcm to so.cal for about a week. i have not done this yet, but i hear it is a good mod.
AFTER you do the intake, i would think about the headers to complement the intake work and muffler you already have.
now that i think of it, i would get some rocker arms (1.7 ratio) before the headers. i noticed more power with them than i did the headers.
if you have any more questions, or need a better explination, let me know. i have the same combo as you.
Eric, 98 5.2 5speed, K&N gen II, 50mm TB, 2bbl M-1, 1.7RR's, JBA ciramic headers, carsound cat, dumped gibson, and a lot more
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Nicks Dakota
Dodge Dakota
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7/10/2002
02:57:49
| RE: So here is what I know so far..
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Thanks that clears up some of it.
I think I'll get the M-1. Where would you recomend buying it from? And the price is $425 now right? Does that include the install kit, gaskets, etc? Everything I need?
And I'll order a K&N Gen II at the same time I think. The same one for the stock manifold right?
And I'll see how that goes. For my $660 what will I expirence?
Thanks again.
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Nicks Dakota
Dodge Dakota
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7/10/2002
03:17:03
| RE: So here is what I know so far..
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Oh and whats the deal with the M-1 turtle? I beleive it was you that said you didn't feel much if any low end loss with the 2bbl M-1. But if I bought a turtle (And where would I do this), would that definitly not make me lose low end torque?
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SinCity R/T
Dodge Dakota
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7/10/2002
14:06:17
| RE: So here is what I know so far..
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The M1 manifold will definitely pick up your top end by about 40hp, but you will lose about 20tq at the bottom end with the installation. The "Turtle" is made by Jeff Arnold - his e-mail is flameredrt@hotmail.com - it's a small pyramid-shaped device that sits inside of the M1 manifold to help direct the air flow and restore a bit of that lost torque.
I have the M1 2bbl with the small turtle, a 52mm Fastman TB, and a 360 Air Intakez K&N kit and like the whole setup.
SinCity R/T
http://www.dakota-durango.com
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Troy
Dodge Dakota
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7/10/2002
16:08:30
| RE: So here is what I know so far..
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I just installed my M1 about a month or so ago. You will definitely lose some low-end. I lost time in my 0-60 run, but gained over a second in the quarter mile. I ordered the turtle today to see if that restores some low-end. I also have a 50mm tb on the way. The 50mm is the way to go to keep low-end torque. As for the M1: I recommend it. Doing away with the belly pan gasket problem was worth it to me. Also, if you have a non-egr truck, get the new casting M1 (non-EGR version): this is the one I have. This is a cleaner looking manifold and costs much cheaper due to costing Mopar less to cast it. I paid $319.95 for mine at Campbell Enterprises. I had less than $410 total, including all hardware, gaskets, install kit, etc. As for the PCM: I did notice some improvement, but I'm not sure how much. I am going to make a 0-60 and 1/4 mile run with the stock PCM and the Mopar unit, and see if the performance benefits are worth the extra gas price. Let me know if you need anymore help.
2000 QC Sport Plus 4x4 5.9L 3.92LS (9.25 axle), every factory option
Magnaflow 3" single in/ 2-1/2" dual out
Kenne Bell equal-length headers with 2-1/2" y-pipe
Autolite 3923's, indexed
Kenne Bell (Taylor) wires
Borg-Warner brass cap/ rotor
180 stat
Redline Water Wetter and Pro-Blend 40 below radiator additive
S-bolt
Homemade 4" cold-air induction
Baffle removed from air hat
K&N air filter
Mobil 1 and Purolator
Perma-Cool auxiliary oil cooler
Map sensor mod
TPS set at .774
clutch fan removed (electric fan on thermal switch)
timing advanced app. 2-3 degrees with sensor in bellhousing
Mopar Performance PCM
M1 two-barrel non-EGR intake manifold (new casting)
On their way:
APS 50mm TB
GTS functional Ram-Air hood
M1 turtle
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Nicks Dakota
Dodge Dakota
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7/10/2002
20:12:44
| RE: So here is what I know so far..
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Upon further searching it seams as though none of the Dakotas after 96 have the egr valve. Being a 97 I reckon I'll save some money for a TB.
I get paid tommorow and will order the parts sometime after that. I used to come here about a year and a half ago, and aparently in that time Bernd went on to operate speedtweaks. Ordering from their seams like a good idea..at least for a TB. Would it be eaiser to get the M-1 (do I want a 2bbl?) without egr from a dealer? What about the install kit.
Sorry for all the questions, just making sure I'm spending money the right way. But will a 50mm TB improve the low end? And is the flowmetric worth the extra money? What about a 52mm?
I hope I'm not irrating you fellows. Hopefully we can all learn something from this thread. Thanks again.
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Troy
Dodge Dakota
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7/11/2002
11:04:06
| RE: So here is what I know so far..
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Not sure if you can get the new casting manifold from the dealer or not. They should be able to order it, however. Yes, you want a 2-bbl. The install kit makes the M1 install a breeze. It comes with all new bolts, plugs, wire, spacers, etc. to do the installation. Money well spent. From what I have heard, the 50mm tb will improve low-end torque, and the 52mm is better for high-end hp, or with nitrous or blower. Some people are running the 50mm with N20 and boost, and are getting excellent results. If you want low-end, don't go bigger than a 50mm. From what I have heard the F&B tb is pretty nice. I chose to get the APS, however. It is a little cheaper, and is suppose to handle nitrous/ blown applications if I ever decide to do that. Other manufacturers have had trouble with throttle plate binding, etc. with these combinations. The APS is suppose to eliminate this. You can check it out on speedtweaks.net. Feel free to ask anymore questions if you find me of any help.
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Nicks Dakota
Dodge Dakota
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7/12/2002
02:28:33
| RE: So here is what I know so far..
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Unless someone knows of a good reason not to go with the APS TB, I see no reason not to.
I am just wondering now where to buy the M-1, non egr to save a few pennies. And the install kit. And I can get the K&N GEN II locally no problem. But may get it from Bernd to cheat on sales tax, definitly though if he has the M-1. I'm not sure about cash right now. But will be paid tommorow. If I can't afford it all right now, I'll just get the M-1 and K&N.
What special tools besides sockets, screw drivers, etc should I have to install these "toys"
I'll drop Bernd an E-Mail tommorow after I figure out my finical status. Thanks for the help guys.
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