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Anthony G
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
10:11:42
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 Subject: Finished M1 Install
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Performance:
700-2900rpm seems the same or a little stronger
2950-3100rpm seems weaker, 3150-3250 seems normal 3300-Red line is stronger
Old Intake:
This engine only had 13K miles and it was starting to get a belly pan gasket leak! It had a small puddle of oil in the back! Intake runners are too long! Ports are very ruff! Bad design!
Install: 7 1/2hrs
Parts: Mopar Intake, Mopar Install kit, Mopar intake Gaskets and bolts, RTV sealant, workshop towels, 1 gallon coolant plus some water, Teflon tape, Thermostat gasket, 2ft of PVC hoses, one for drivers side valve cover, and the other for the brake booster.
Tools: Few sockets, vice grips screw drivers, allen wrenches, razor blades, torque wrench, some kind of light, spot light, flash light or just good lighting, some light rope to keep fuel rail and other parts tied up away from engine.
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MikeD
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
10:26:43
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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So are you saying you had an oil leak as a result of the install? I haven't put mine on yet and if your experiencing problems then I might hesitate to put it on.
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MikeD
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
10:32:48
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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Sorry I'm having trouble waking up this morning...you just said the leak was from the old beer barrel intake right?
Also what other mods have you done besides your M-1...do you have a bigger TB than stock and do you have headers?
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Anthony G
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
11:20:38
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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Yes the leak was on the old beer barrel intake! I WOULD OF NEVER GUESSED IT COULD HAPPEN THIS SOON.
M1 INTAKE
F&B 50mm TB
FIPK2 K&N
IAT Adjuster
AUTOLITES
180 T-STAT
9mm Wires
BORG W-CAP& ROTOR
MAGNAFLOW MUFFLER
NEXT MODS:
HEADERS > RR 1.7 > MOPAR COVERS > FREE FLOW CAT
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Anthony G
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
11:26:39
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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Did I mention it sounds MEAN! It likes to revs like a race engine now! No hesitation, very quick vroom vroom. Sounds like the K&N filer it about to implode from all the suction!
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kota on 20s
GenIII
 
1/28/2002
11:29:29
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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Anthony, is that after the computer learned the M-1 was on there, or no?
also, i would strongly suggest you do the rockers first. in my experience, they made WAY more power than the headers.
Eric
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Anthony G
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
12:03:16
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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No I didn't let it learn. I think it's getting better now that I've driven it a little more :) I havent notice the 3k area being weaker now. I can't wait to go out driving it at lunch time.
Yea, I do agree with the roller rocker :)
I'll have to work some overtime to buy some more parts.
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MikeD
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
12:27:01
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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Well the headers may not give more power but working in combination w/ all the air your putting into it....getting it out will make it flow better. I got my headers on and it seems like it drags less and is less doggy while driving.
After I get my intake on then I'll spring for the rockers...can't wait. :)
'01 RC R/T 52mm F&B TB, JBA headers and 9mm wires, Airaid, Flowmaster 40 w/ dual 3-1/2" tips, street scene speed grill
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Anthony G+
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
12:48:32
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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2002 After I get some crower 1.7 rail rockers, I'll get me the headers setup from KRC that removes the pre-cat off the y-pipe and install the kat box. While removing the main cat.
2003 I might shoot for 1.92 RT heads with a mild cams that works with the 1.7RR.
2004 I get me a Turbo Kit or Supercharger.
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MikeD
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
13:29:13
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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Whynot the 2.02 R/T heads?
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Anthony G
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
14:06:50
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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I think it's too much head for the engine. Get a 408 stoker, then a 2.02 head would do.
Since I have a 50MM TB, 2BBL M1, no wild cam, 5k redline, the 1.92 heads would give me more hp.
Bigger is not aways better, sometimes.
I still think 1.92 heads even with a supercharger should be enough. I'll only be running 6-8psi.
I've seen 2.02 heads makes less horsepower on mild setups than using a 1.92 Valve.
52mm or four barrel TB, 4bbl m1, wild cam, 2800 stall coverter, 408package, mopar pcm, then 2.02 would work great. Or NOS or Blown setups.
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MikeD
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
14:50:13
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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U must have a 4.7 Dakota ;)
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Anthony G
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
15:21:55
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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No, just a 2001 white RC R/T with dark blue stripes down the middle with a hard cover. Just like Sam's, but I removed the strips off the front bumper. Dark black interior, Cd-tape player, eq, 6 or 8 way speaker system. Overhead console, and much more. THe more I drive it with the new M1 the better it seems on the top end. Before it seemed pointless to drop into passing gear going anything faster than 50mph with the beerkeg, now with the M1 it's has as much get up and go as it does at 30mph. Today at lunch time, I pulled out and gunned it, It was spinning so hard It was fish tailing in 2nd gear :) In my line of course. The S-10 and another car that where a few cars away before pulling out didn't even want to stop next to me at the light, they both got behind me. LOL I've never seen anyone pass up the front row at a light.
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MikeD
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
15:31:48
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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Well in my R/T I've noticed the power drops off at 400=4500 RPm's...where does the power drop off w/ the new M-1 on it?
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MikeD
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
15:34:51
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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Sorry thats 4000-4500 RPM's
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Anthony G
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
17:30:23
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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It doesn't drop off :) It pulls until It shifts.
The only draw back was the 3000rpm spot, where it lags some be then picks back up with no problem.
Awesome highway intake :)
My stock dyno's showed that the beer keg was only good until it hit 4000rpm from there it drop like a 747 with no engines.
But with this M1 it pulls and screams don't shift yet, I want more RPMS. Unlike the Keg that begs to be shifted.
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MikeD
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
17:45:36
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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Sweet I'm gonna put mine on this weekend. Did you have to reset your PCM?
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Anthony G
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
17:54:15
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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I had too, you don't want you system hooked up while you remove you fuel rail. Keep it unplug, plus I put electrical tape around the battery terminal just incase it did hit and cause a spark.
Good Luck, and take your time. Do it right are you'll be doing it all over. Most important part is the gasket part.
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McClane
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
17:55:04
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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Anthony G
With your new M1, what about acceleration uphill and/or with a load ? Have you had a chance to try that combination ?
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kota on 20s
GenIII
1/28/2002
20:52:57
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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anthony, how did you releve the fuel pressure for the fuel rails? i was told to pull the fuel pump relay and run the truck untill it wont start anymore. any thoughts?
Eric
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MikeD
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
21:15:00
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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It says in the instructions not to relieve the fuel pressure unless you really have to, you just undo them from the stock manifold and set them outta the way. In other words its not required to relieve the pressure in order to install it. :)
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kota on 20s
GenIII
1/28/2002
21:17:01
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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cool, did any gas leak out? and what was the hardest part of the install?
Eric
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MIkeD
Dodge Dakota
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1/28/2002
23:30:34
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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Well thats where Anthony will have to help ya out...but me and a buddy are installing it this weekend...if you don't have an answer to your question by then I'll let ya know. :)
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kota on 20s
GenIII
1/28/2002
23:45:15
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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hey thanks, i would be installing mine this weekend also, but i live in CA and have to waite to smog it before i put it on ;-( because they arent leagle.
let me know how it goes and performance gains
Eric
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Anthony G
Dodge Dakota
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1/29/2002
10:24:56
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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Ok, here some tips:
1. You do not need to relieve the fuel pressure for the fuel rails & no gas should leaked out. It's just safer to unplug from the battery.
2. The Important part was getting to old gaskets cleared off, then making sure everything was dry and installing the new gaskets. When pulling the two black gaskets off, make sure the little nipple pieces get removed from the holes in the block. You don't want the new gaskets not seating right. You also need black RTV sealant.
3. Before removing the fuel rails, get a brush or air hose and remove all the dirt, sand, off the intake where it meets the head. This way the dirt does not fall into the engine. If you try cleaning this surface with the fuel rails off, the dirt could enter the injector holes straight into the valves.
4. I used a bunch of shop towels to keep the falling leftover gaskets from dropping into the engine. I bought a scraper for that part.
5. Removing & installing the water pump hose was hard.
6. "what about acceleration uphill and/or with a load ? Have you had a chance to try that combination ?"
Let see, I haven't towed anything. But on ramps are no problem. It has more power from idle to the high 2900 range. It gets up to 60 mph quick without needing to get into the 3k mark like before. It seems to get better gas mileage, if you refrain from doing WOT. Like I said before you will notice some bogging or lag near 3000-3200rpm's but this is due to the engines setup. I also don't have headers and have three cats. This bogg could be due to that? You just notice this less with the beer keg, because it was built to run best from 3000-4000rpms. One of the main reason I got the M1 is to get rid of that annoying top end drop off. Even my dyno showed the beerkeg power start at 3600 then die by 4300, and when it got close to 5k it was making less horsepower than it would at 3k. Now with my M1 I can do highway passes, Just this morning I was just about to get onto an on-ramp. First I floored it at 20mph, It dropped into first and I was off! It hit second and chirp it at 40mph when it hit 2nd. And then entering the highway at 50 mph I then dropped into 2nd and blew by the other Dakota SLT trying to get up to highway speed. Now going 60 mph and flooring it will only get you into the 3k where it bogs some. This is due to the gearing and only having 4 gears. Overall it's a good intake, I can't wait to dyno it then take it to the track when it opens in about two months.
I've also notice that from idle to 2500rpm it sounded very loud (stock). Or cursing on the high it roars from 50-60mph(stock). After installing the magnaflow muffler it roars from 50-65 mph almost 70 (magnaflow)but after 70mph it's quite. It this due to the exhaust backpressure or cam setup? That just proves why 3k bogs some.
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McClane
Dodge Dakota
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1/29/2002
15:31:02
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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Thanks for the info Anthony G !
From your description, it sounds like the M1 is definitely the way to go. As well, it has bolstered my decision to ignore the crappy exchange rate (CDN to USD) and just order it from either Speedtweaks or World Wide Performance Parts.
Personally, my concern is with the stock pan gasket. It is perhaps the weakest link in the entire 3.9/5.2/5.9 family of engines. Makes you wonder why DC just didn't put the M1 into the engines in the first place.
I asked you the question regarding the uphill acceleration because I find with the beer keg it kinda dies out going up hill + it pings worse than a diesel engine. That is a signal to me to ease off the gas pedal and let the truck slowly accelerate up the hill.
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b good
Dodge Dakota
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1/29/2002
22:14:06
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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How long did it take to get your m-1? I ordered one from a dealer 3-4 weeks ago and he still doesnt know when it'll arive...[ my 1.7 rockers came in though]
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slider_buck
Dodge Dakota
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1/29/2002
23:15:43
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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should have ordered it from mancini racing. i got one for around 340 i think it was, thats the manifold, installation kit and gaskets. they had it in stock and i received it within a few days from oredering it.
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kota on 20s
GenIII
1/30/2002
00:44:54
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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i called mancini a day after you posted that price on blackdakrt.com, and they upped the price to around $400 with the kit. the best place right now is probably speedtweaks for $375 shipped.
Eric
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slider_buck
Dodge Dakota
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1/30/2002
01:08:42
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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yeah i noticed that also. guess i got mine just at the right time. when i went to get it initially they raised the price up then after about a week they dropped it again, good thing i bought it when i did before they upped the price again. you might want to keep an eye on there site for awhile and see if they drop it again.
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slider_buck
Dodge Dakota
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1/30/2002
02:36:08
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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i found the m1 intakes on another site for a good price. heres the address http://www.rpmmoparts.com/mp/
the intake is $240
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McClane
Dodge Dakota
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1/30/2002
10:16:14
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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b good
I placed an order at the dealership for the M1 just one week after new years, and was told that there was a wait list of 57 people. I decided I may was well get in line, so that made 58.
Checked about one week later and was told the wait list was up to 95.
I've heard from others that it may take a long time before DC starts filling out the back orders.
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B GOOD
Dodge Dakota
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1/30/2002
21:29:26
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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I called moparts a few weeks ago and asked if their price on their website was correct. It wasnt, new price was $349 and he,d called mopar perf. that morning and there was some 150 or so on backorder, so if ya want one and someplace has'em better snap'em up. He said the reason the price went up was the manufacturer lo-balled to get the contract and once the original producton run was done they raised the price.
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graphitert
R/T
1/30/2002
22:49:23
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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Moparts is feeding you a line. Edelbrock can get an aluminum single plane manifold to market for 1/2 what Daimler Chrysler, with it's global access to contract manufacturers can??? I don't think so. A bunch of MP parts went up significantly in price at the beginning of the year. I got one of the last sets of MP valve covers before the price got jacked by 60-70%
Bob
'01 Graphite CC R/T, MP headers, SpinTech custom exhaust, 19" Acari wheels w/Dunlop SP9000s, Hotchkis, Bilsteins, CF Euro tails, clear corners, chrome emblems, Speed Grill inserts, CF dash
Soon: MSD 6BTM, M1 intake, Holley 52mm TB, 1.7 RRs
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b good
Dodge Dakota
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1/31/2002
14:25:28
|  RE: Finished M1 Install
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Damn that graphite is a nice color....wished they had it in 2000
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Rob W
Dodge Dakota
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1/31/2002
17:35:07
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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AnthonyG -
I've got my M1 2bbl ready to be installed (just trying to find a day where I don't have to be rushed). Thanks for the tips, but I had another question... on a post some time ago you mentioned removing your cats. Did you ever do that, and do you think with the M1 that the cat removal even helps more?
Rob W
01 CC RT
(K&N GenII, Fastman TB, Gibson shorties, custom cat-back, IAT adj.)
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Anthony G
Dodge Dakota
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1/31/2002
17:48:42
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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I almost removed the main cat, It took awhile just to get the exhaust off the cat section. I used a blow torch to heat the piping. After seeing the angle and how far it was just to reach the cat it was almost impossible. The only way to remove the cat would be to remove the tranny brace and removing the Y-pipe section then cutting away some of the s shape piping. Best bet now for me now is to remove the cat then add a new pipe or a high flow cat. Hollow cats sometimes don't sound right, echo's too much or makes it sound bad while it idling near a wall and added heat. The cat almost acts like a heat sink sometimes cooling the engine down.
I've removed cats on other cars. My old 1987 GTA with the 5.7L had a cutted cat, I can say without a doubt that it made a good 10-20hp from my butt dyno. Before selling it, I install a brand new cat, after driving it with the cat, it was slower that's for sure. So no I haven't remove my cat yet, but It's going to happen sooner or later. I'll tell you how it goes when I do. Or you can tell me if you do.
Anthony
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MikeD
Dodge Dakota
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1/31/2002
18:06:32
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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Don't you have to buy something special to trick the PCM into thinking the cats are still there I heard when you remove them it trips a code.
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Rob W
Dodge Dakota
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1/31/2002
23:08:51
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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MikeD, you are correct. You'd need a Katbox (see Speedtweaks, Marty at KRC, or Dan Arcand, maybe others) for 2000 and prior, and a dual-Katbox for 2001 +.
However, on the 2001 + models, the sensors are on the precats only. You could remove the main and the computer wouldn't know it.
Rob W
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MikeD
Dodge Dakota
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1/31/2002
23:20:32
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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The computer might not know about the 3rd cat...BUT, would it pass smog? U'd pretty much have to take the cat off yourself...any respectable muffler shop is probably gonna laugh at you when you ask them to take it off.
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MikeD
Dodge Dakota
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2/04/2002
13:41:19
| RE: Finished M1 Install
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Well got my intake on this past weekend and I've gotta say it is sweet. only problems I'm having is a little leakage problems...I think its cuz I forgot to get a t-stat gasket so I used rtv sealant and might be a few spots I need to fix. Oh and did any 1 have to buy a reducer for the driver side brake booster hose...it was too short for one and the hose hole was also too big.
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